87 TII.

I have been reading about some symptoms on blown coolant seals. I am wondering about my engine.

When I start it up, there is hardly ANY smoke at all (just a little puff if any). It starts up pretty quick and it runs ok. (I think it is running ok just by the sound of the engine b/c I don't have a tach).

My main concern of why there may be a blown seal is b/c the add coolant light/buzzer came on today. I added some coolant water mixture to top it off. I just changed my oil yesterday with 10w-40. Right after I added coolant, I checked the oil and it seemed to be a little thin. I did not think to check if the coolant was bubbling when the car was running but I will tomorrow.

Also, when I added in more coolant, there seemed to be no oil in it.

Any ideas?

If there is a blown coolant seal, I read something about using "stop leak". Anyone heard of this stuff or know if it works good?

Thanks.
Tim

 

There is an air bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator (S4 Radiators). Open that to let air escape while you fill coolant. It may take a few times of adding coolant before you get all the air out. If the sensor on top of the radiator isn't submerged in water then it makes the light go off. New oil is supposed to be thin. Its not thick and chunky, this ain't Cambell's Soup Do like you plan on doing and check for bubbling. I have used stop leak in my coolant before. If I let the car sit overnight, it wouldn't start the next day because so much coolant go into the rotor. After the stop leak, I could let it sit for a few days and it would start right up. Only problem was that the coolant overflow kept filling up each day because the rotors compression was getting to the coolant system. I eventually rebuilt the motor but it did help in the mean time so I could get the tools and money and stuff together for the rebuild.

 

There is an air bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator (S4 Radiators). Open that to let air escape while you fill coolant. It may take a few times of adding coolant before you get all the air out. If the sensor on top of the radiator isn't submerged in water then it makes the light go off. New oil is supposed to be thin. Its not thick and chunky, this ain't Cambell's Soup Do like you plan on doing and check for bubbling. I have used stop leak in my coolant before. If I let the car sit overnight, it wouldn't start the next day because so much coolant go into the rotor. After the stop leak, I could let it sit for a few days and it would start right up. Only problem was that the coolant overflow kept filling up each day because the rotors compression was getting to the coolant system. I eventually rebuilt the motor but it did help in the mean time so I could get the tools and money and stuff together for the rebuild.

 

There is an air bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator (S4 Radiators). Open that to let air escape while you fill coolant. It may take a few times of adding coolant before you get all the air out. If the sensor on top of the radiator isn't submerged in water then it makes the light go off. New oil is supposed to be thin. Its not thick and chunky, this ain't Cambell's Soup Do like you plan on doing and check for bubbling. I have used stop leak in my coolant before. If I let the car sit overnight, it wouldn't start the next day because so much coolant go into the rotor. After the stop leak, I could let it sit for a few days and it would start right up. Only problem was that the coolant overflow kept filling up each day because the rotors compression was getting to the coolant system. I eventually rebuilt the motor but it did help in the mean time so I could get the tools and money and stuff together for the rebuild.

 

anyone else?

 

bump