kemozabi

Wellll, i came home about 10 lastnight and then at about 1130 this morn tried to staRt the car. all the lights came on so it wasnt completly dead but then when i tried to start it all i got was clicks. so i try to jump it. i got a little push then more clicks. so i waited and reved the other car a little bit then it started. i disconnet the stuff and start packin up, then i start hearin the car stumble like it wants to cut off. i try to get on the gas but im to slo and it cuts off. so i hook it back up then try to start it, i get more clicks. try again and it starts then pops then dies, i try again this time it starts, pops and dies but faster. I try 1 more time and now it wont even start. what the hell is goin on???

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Put a "good" power source in it. Meaning good battery, then start from there. If the battery is completely dead or shorted, it can cause major problems. Not allowing enough current to keep engine running. Make sure all accessories are off when you're trying to start.

UniqueTII

Like turbonut said, you need a good battery on there. My car will hardly run at all with a crappy battery on there...it would only rev to 4500 or so, the tach would die, and the lights would do funny things.

Silkworm

what kind of voltage were you getting once you removed the jumpers but the engine was running?

Sounds like the battery is totally discharged, and the alternator isn't putting out enough juice to charge it.

PaulC

skold

my car did the samething like about 4 months ago and it was my alternator.. it turned out it fired my wiring. I would go and get a new alternator and if it happens again get your wiring checked you could have a big ibg problem.

UniqueTII

Speaking of alternators, does the S5 alternator put out more amperage than an S4?

wpgrexx

is there any alternator that puts out more voltage, at full throttle i can only get about 11.5 volts. this is a very recently rebuilt alternator and a deep cycle battery

kemozabi

ima go return this battery today but how "big" of a problem is fried wires skold

hypntyz7

I used to have major charging problems on my 87 t2. I tried several alternators with no change.

I got a dual alt. pulley in case it was slipping, along with new dayco belts...no change.

I ran an e-fan, and this caused a bigger problem.

I Got a new battery, the biggest one sold by walmart, the 900amp version, 7 year warranty. this helped a lot, but I still only saw 11.5 at idle and 12 or so at cruise at night.

I finally relocated it to the back, and used 4 gage wire and connectors the whole way. I soldered the connections as well, and used heavy duty connectors, and at the same time, I got a s5 alternator and installed it.

I now see nearly 15vdc at startup, and about 14.1vdc at cruise with all accessories on(not the e-fan though). I get a steady 13.5 at idle, never below that.

s5 alternator...best mod Ive done to this car.

Ryde _Or_Die

Ya 80amps instead of 70. I got one in my room waiting to be put in.

UniqueTII

Send it to me instead.

I'll eventually get around to putting an S5 alternator on mine...I have to finish my P/S removal and change my water pump first.

kemozabi

ok im back now.....heres what happened, first thing i did was take my car to autozone to get the alternator checked out. when the guy came outside my car was already dead so i had to take the alternator off and then the tested it inside. i think he said it was good and about at 13.5 or so. so then i put the alternator back on and had them charge my batt until i could find my recieept to exchange the old one.
i drove it and it was fine then on the 2nd night after all that i was takin my friend home adn all the lights inside and the headlights went dim. i kept pressin on the gas and it didnt have much response behind it like it was goin to stall as if it had no gas. then it kinda straightened up and started goin. it did this a couple more times on the way there and then i cut it off when i got to his house. i was inside for like 5 min, came back out and had to jump it. from then to when i got home it was fine.
the nxt morning i came out to start it basically knowin i was gonna need a jump which i did. I jumped it then as soon as i took the cables off it stopped. i tried it again but let the them sit on there for a lil longer and reved it for a min. it stopped again. so now im pissed, and go back to sleep. later i get a battery and it starts right up no probs. i take it to the shop where i had the alternator put on like 6mnths ago and tell em the battery keeps gettin killed and somethin not letting the batt charge. he calls me back and tells me thatthe battery lead to the alternator wasnt tight and they tightened it and now it works fine. i didnt believe him much but i have to wait and see if it was right. i also got a brand new battery and put it in there too. this is what he wrote on the bill slip --- reg volts-12.22, break amps-7.9, diode pattern good, peak amps-56.0 --- i dont kno to much about all this but is it normal should this all work? i dont have much faith in it, it seems hard for me to believe that somehow the cable came loose for no reason and caused those problems. let me kno what yall thinks about this here.

hypntyz7

Loose connections, or for that matter corroded connections, can cause major charging problems. IF this was teh case it could very well have been the problem

I have measured as much as 2 volts drop between the alternator and battery on a stock FC, just because connections were dirty, not even loose.