It stays around 600 - 550 RPm. I have just installed my new exhaust including header and pre-silencer. when I did this I broke off the bolt on the back of the motor. the one with the hole through it so the air can open the 5-6 ports. Know what I mean???
well anyway this means the 5/6 prots are wired open too.
but still I should be able to idle up more right? It is simply too low. my alt wont charge at idle. that idle set skrew is all the way out. and my timing is advanced 5 degreese higher for a total of 15. any help???

 

this is just a guess........TPS out of adjustment???? or even a bad one???

 

Turn your throttle stop screw in a touch. It has a 8mm jamnut on top of it. The throttle linkage rests against it. Here's a jpg: Also I suspect your bac is not functioning. Check out this article:http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html I know its a turbo article, but the bac works the same. P.S. Anytime you mess with the stop screw adjustment you should reset the tps setting. SAme for messing with the thermowax and fast idle cam.

 

Reset the ECU so that the computer can learn your new mods if your car is a S5

 

I don't understand the part about the timing. The timing should be LEAD 5 degrees after top dead center and Trail 20 degrees after top dead center. He has a 88 model, not too clever ECU. Does the adjustment of the variable resistor have any effect on the idle?? When you pull the bac plug off does the idle drop? Rise?

 

I had set mine normally at 10 degreese as per the Racing beat tech tips.
The BAC is off the car.
the TPS is adjusted perfectly and works fine.
I was thinking about resetting the ECU. how od I do it? diconnect the batt and depress the brake petal right?
the power steering AC and air pump are out ot the car. Next is removing unneeded vac hoses but I can't find a very good resource of what is the minimum needed to operate the car. know what I mean vern?
thanks guys

 

No bac? Then use the throttle stop screw to adjust the rpm. Throw all the solenoids and vac tubes in the garbage can. On the front of the throttle body leave the large hose connected, it goes to the oil injector nipples and feeds fresh filtered air to them. The nipple just below that one is for the fuel injector air bleeds, so leave it. The nipple just below those two should be routed directly to your fuel pressure regulator vac hose nipple. The two nipples on the back of the throttle body should be capped off. Resetting the ECU on an 88 is a bs item. Nothing to be reset. Do it if you want and it makes you feel good. Of the solenoids you are throwing away, the blue one is for the relief solenoid that ends up feeding a diaphram on the acv, you don't need that since you did away with the air pump, the grey solenoid also went to feed a diaphram on the acv and you don't need that since you did away with the air pump, the orange one is for the fuel pressure regulator, and you don't need that since you can run a direct line from the regulator itself to the front of the throttle body, the egr solenoid(I forget the color) isn't needed. You might just put a dust cap on the egr vac hose or remove the egr and make a blockoff plate for it. You must have already removed the acv since it does nadda without the airpump. Just make a blockoff for it. Chunk the purge valve while your at it. Its that black plastic outfit.

 

dude... thanx. thats is the most direct answer for this question on the forum. I have searched and asked and not gotten this.
thanx