My car is STILL hesitating!...
Originally Posted by Archangels
how do i check that exactly?...
just losen and take the belt off the alternator, or, unplug it?...
just losen and take the belt off the alternator, or, unplug it?...
However, if you remove the belt to the alternator your WP would not turn. So, I guess you could just remove the electrical connections. Since the alternator does nothing when it is just spinning with no exciter hooked up to it...so just leave the belt and remove the output and the plug.
James
so after some high-speed runs on a "closed" highway with my friends, i was told my car spits black smoke like crazy right when i get on the gas and under boost....
i suspect it's running RICH during the hesitation rather then lean....
i've been enjoying it while it's running like this....
seems alright?...
( still want the hesitation gone though, i'm trying )....
i suspect it's running RICH during the hesitation rather then lean....
i've been enjoying it while it's running like this....
seems alright?...
( still want the hesitation gone though, i'm trying )....
are you running an fcd? when i put on an aftermarket exhaust my car hit fuel cut like crazy....probably a stupid thought that was already mensioned, but i was impatient and didnt want to read the whole thread.....sorry guys if it was dumb. haha.
Originally Posted by Archangels
i suspect it's running RICH during the hesitation rather then lean...

Originally Posted by Andy87t2
are you running an fcd? when i put on an aftermarket exhaust my car hit fuel cut like crazy...
Originally Posted by Archangels
so after some high-speed runs on a "closed" highway with my friends, i was told my car spits black smoke like crazy right when i get on the gas and under boost....
i suspect it's running RICH during the hesitation rather then lean....
i've been enjoying it while it's running like this....
seems alright?...
( still want the hesitation gone though, i'm trying )....
i suspect it's running RICH during the hesitation rather then lean....
i've been enjoying it while it's running like this....
seems alright?...
( still want the hesitation gone though, i'm trying )....
If the tach needle drops during the hessitations ... its ignition.
James
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Get thee to a nunnery! And by nunnery I mean dyno... 
Fuel cut is not a hesitation. They're completely different and it would be impossible to mistake one for the other.

Fuel cut is not a hesitation. They're completely different and it would be impossible to mistake one for the other.
i'll try to post a dyno chart later today when i get home....
is it bad to race from a roll like this?, it hesitates a little then goes....
Originally Posted by Wankel7
If the tach needle drops during the hessitations ... its ignition.
James
James
i had a problem with mine where when i started happning it would only rev to 5500 rpm and wouldnt go hire then after alittle while it wouldnt even go past 3500 and i was like whats going on i first thought it was fuel and and i checked evrything and it wasnt then i was like i wonder if i have a cloged cat. so when i got back to work i started it up and when to feel what was coming out the back and there whas hardly nothing coming out the back even when reving it up then i knew i had a bad cat. when i took it down the fist cat blew in to the second cat to clog it up and that was my problem. so if you still have cats check that out.
not sure if this makes any sense or not, but, when i first start my car in the morning and try to accelerate a little quicker, seconds after i leave my parking stall, it'll hesitate pretty badly, and hesitates until it warms up....
then it does the hesitation i'm trying to figure out with this thread....
could the two be linked?...
oh, and when i first drive my car, the AF guage is very slow, but after it's "warmed up" it's alot more responsive....
idea's?...
then it does the hesitation i'm trying to figure out with this thread....
could the two be linked?...
oh, and when i first drive my car, the AF guage is very slow, but after it's "warmed up" it's alot more responsive....
idea's?...
remove the F-Con and take the car for a spin. I had the same thing happen and that was the problem.
[edit] be careful, I removed my F-Con and FCD. It still managed to hit 10 psi on the free way. Detonation put a nice scratch in the rear rotor housing. Seals were all fine though, lol.
[edit] be careful, I removed my F-Con and FCD. It still managed to hit 10 psi on the free way. Detonation put a nice scratch in the rear rotor housing. Seals were all fine though, lol.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
Originally Posted by Archangels
=
oh, and when i first drive my car, the AF guage is very slow, but after it's "warmed up" it's alot more responsive....
idea's?...
oh, and when i first drive my car, the AF guage is very slow, but after it's "warmed up" it's alot more responsive....
idea's?...
Originally Posted by Sideways7
O2 sensors need to warm up before the work properly. Have you happened to look at the a/f gauge when it hesitates? Does it go lean or not do much?
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
Originally Posted by rx-7 obsessed
are ur aux ports still on the car if they are please tell my u checked to see if they are openin
Even if it did have aux ports, there is not way that non-working aux ports would cause hesitation. If they are stuck closed you loses high end, if they are stuck open you lose low end. Thats it.
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,152
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburg, KS.
I got my TII running great today. I installed the omp and change the main pluuley( for some reason the recent and ones that come of S5 TII is marked different?) Well the car ran great now. Here is something I learn not to do on an S5 TII "never blocked the omp when running stock ecu" Good luck with your finds.
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