okay so i got my new injector resistor box today and my car starts but it wont stay started or rev above 4000 if im rev it and when i leave it alone it revs to 2000 then shuts down can somone give me a bit of help it is a freshly rebuilt s4 t2 motor as well into a GXL.

 

I'd bet the MAF is messed.........

 

why did you get a new injector resistor box?

it sounds like a really big vaccum leak somewhere. or the AFM is messed up/not plugged in.

 

let me correct that i didnt have a injector resistor box so i had to get one lol.

 

how long does it stay running?

 

a few seconds at best 10-20 id have to say.

 

yup sounds like you have a problem with the AFM it either got unplugged or the hose got disconnected or it just took a ****.

 

cool ill check that if anyone else has any ideas then i would love to hear them iv got a good idea and a decent amount of practice on the mechanical side of things but when it comes to trouble shooting and electrical i have no clue most of the time.

 

what color are the tops of your injectors? are you sure you need a resistor box?

if you disconnect that does it run?

 

it sat 2 months not stating because i didn't have a resistor box but i hooked it up today and it started up with a little hesitation and i have another correction to make its more between 5-10 seconds it stays running and it produces allot of white smoke which i am told is normal for freshly rebuilt motors.

 

if you push in on the flapper in the afm with the key in the run position you should hear the fuel pump turn on. If that works the afm is probably good.

 

so what elso could it be cause i cant find a vac leak.

 

did you check the things I mentioned?

 

yeah im gonna keep messing with it tomorrow when its warm out i just want to explore all avenues of possibility.

 

ok my afm is good whenever i barely touch it i hear the fuel system. i cant find a single vac leak so any other ideas?

 

is the pressure sensor disconnected, Im not sure about these cars but I know a lot of others will have the same symptoms as yours if you unplug the map sensor

there should also be a vacuum line going to it

 

yeah the vac line is hooked up and the pressure sensor is conected.

 

There is more to it than just will the pump come on. Thats just a switch in the afm(fc -> e1). You need to hit it with a multimeter.

Pulled straight from alldatapro.



1. Check air flow meter body for cracks or damage, replacing as necessary.
2. Ensure measuring plate opens smoothly.
3. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between terminals, Fig. 29, as follows:

1. Resistance between terminals E2 and VS should be 50-500 ohms.
2. Resistance between terminals E2 and Vref should be 200-500 ohms.
3. Resistance between terminals E2 and THAA should be 10,000-20,000 ohms at (-)4°F, 4000-7000 ohms at 32°F, 2000-3000 ohms at 68°F, 900-1300 ohms at 104°F and 400-700 ohms at 140°F.
4. Resistance between terminals E1 and FC should be infinite with measuring plate fully closed or zero with measuring plate fully open and, on 1988 models, resistance between terminals E2 and VS should be 50-500 ohms regardless of position of measuring plate

 

anybody know if you can electronically time an fc with a timing light if it wont stay started? also i cant find a vac leak and my AFM is definitely good.

 

bump for some more help.

 

seriously guys somone has had to have had this problem i cant find a vac leak my afm is good my racing season starts this weekend and im not gonna make it but i have to make the next i am so close to giving up and just rocking a s chassis dont let that happen.

 

i wish I could help you more man, as I'm sure you know these things can have some mysterious problems sometimes.

I have never done it but I know there is a way to check if it is throwing any codes, if you search on here you should be able to find it.

I doubt the problem is timing.