... is what I WOULD be saying if some one doesnt figure out how to store a rotary correctly. (which i'm sure is figured out but I NEED TO KNOW).

My car will be stored while i'm off at college. Since no one is answering my question fully in this thread : https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...0&pagenumber=1 , I need to know how to stop the carbon buildup.

Yes, you've all heard stories of cars sitting then POP GOES THE ENGINE after some hard driving....

I KNOW NOT TO USE AFT, and the "engine foam" will stop internal rust/seizure. BUT WILL IT STOP THE CARBON? and if not, what will?

 

Not shure about you're question, You want to know how to stop carbon build up from just sitting in storage? or day to day driving?

EDIT: BTW driving the **** out of any engine after 8 months of storage will kill it.

 

Well, the car will be sitting for 8 months. And every seven I konw that has come out of storage has blown the engine....

The reason? Most likely carbon buildup from sitting so long. So how the **** can can i prevent this? That's my question that NO ON seems to know the answer to...

 

I have stored my car for multiple months at a time and haven't had any problems. I just put fresh oil and coolant in it first.

 

Carbon results from the burning of fuel and oil....not from sitting with nothing running through the engine. As far as storing it....i'd just put some motor oil in the spark plug holes and turn it over by hand with the spark plugs out to coat everything well. Not sure about draining the coolant though.....someone help out on this one. Of course....it would be better if someone could drive it every month for a few hours.

Todd

 

What he said.

 

dre i would not worry about carbon build up. if it happend just spray a shot of atf in it for a min then run it out. dont let it sit in there just long enough for it to burn it off

 

Like we said in the other thread.
Run the car hard to make sure the engine is cleaned out.
Do the lay-up properly.

When you come out of storage:
1. Fresh plugs
2. Change oil
3. Check all Fluids
4. remove all coverings over the openings
5. Start and drive around for at least 50 miles or so.
6. Change oil again.
7. Treat the motor like a new engine break-in for 1000 miles
8. ENJOY!

This is what I would do. Like I have said b4 I am **** about **** like this.

 

If you take a car that has been sitting for 8 months and drive it hard... well this is rude, but you're a moron

 

how do you build carbon sitting in a garage? be sure not to forget the water remover for the gas tank!

 

my car sat in my parents garage for 7 months when i was on cruise onboard the ENTERPRISE in the arabian sea last year. the only thing that went wrong was the battery(discharged) the car was in great shape and noone drove it the entire time i was gone. but id still say take it easy for the first couple miles or so.

 

1000 miles!! omg... Seriously?

Ugh, storing the Wankel SUCKS

 

Hey Dre, how about i just go down there and drive you car to GA and keep it driven and driven HARD while you are gone. When you come back just come down to GA and drive it back. heh heh

 

hehe...ok this is what i'm gonna do... see if you can find any flaws:

STORING
(not in any particular order)
1. remove battery
2. wash/was car
3. take off wheels (and put up on jacks)
4. spray suspension components and underbody with some anti-rust stuff
5. top off all fluids
6. full tank gas and STA-BIL addative
7. Car cover
8. plug exhaust and any other open areas for rodents
9. moth *****
10. armorall inside
11. keep battery charged
12. Marine engine fog all 6 chambers/rotor faces... heavily.
13. Vacuum out interior.

IN THE SPRING
(no order in particular, and aside from the obvious (like remove car cover ))
1. Change oil
2. Flush/fill radiator
3. New spark plugs
4. check/fill all other fluids
5. run a few bottles injector cleaner
6. drive it easy for first 100-500 miles or so.... drive it regularly from then on
7. wash/wax car
8. A U T O C R O S S !

Seem good? Oh yeah, what can I put on the paint to keep the car from rusting? My car has never seen rust and i'll be dead before it ever does .

 

well thats gotta suck to be you doesn't it?

 

Best anti-rust coating for machimed parts is BOEING T-9
http://www.boeshield.com/

DON'T USE ARMOR-ALL THE STUFF IS CRAP!!!!!!
http://autopia.ws/forums/showthread....=armor+AND+all

Use Aerospace 303. Armor-all screws up the plasticizers BAD!!! Armor-All review notes:
I'ts greasy, smeary and slings all over the place. It is dimethyl silicone oil too. This is a rubber degradant. The worst effects are seen when you STOP using it. It turns tires brown and dries out vinyl dashes causing them to possibly crack over time. Some tire manufacturers will not honor their warranty for sidewall failure if a silicone oil containing tire dressing was used on the tire. While your tires may not look pretty if you use it, I believe that you will most likely replace the tires on a daily driver before this stuff has a chance to do much damage. Nonetheless......I avoid it period.”


"Some have experienced long time use of Armor All can lead to dashes cracking if I'm not mistaken.”


"Armor All... "


"I have not noticed a difference in the formulation of Armor All. I get it just about every year as gifts, and have trouble finding uses for it. Many users characterize it as greasy, slings, and browns rubber and tires. Again, this is taken from Professional Detailing & Carwashing Magazine - July 2000 issue. "....improper application of both solvent- and water-based dressings on tires can result in staining of the surrounding painted surfaces. Carbon black from the tire mixes with the dressing's shine agent (silicone, glycerin or mineral oil) during application. If the vehicle is moved before this mixture dries, the mixture can be slung onto the fascia and discolor it. Plastic fascias with flex agents in the clearcoat are especially susceptible.

While higher temperatures can speed up the drying of the dressing on the tire, they can also accelerate the staining should the mixture land on the paint, making the stain much more difficult to remove.........”


“I also dislike most protectants, especially Armorall.”


"As for products that I hate, well Armor All has to be at the top of the list.”



Other than that your plan seems good.

 

Ok good, dont wanna blow another engine....

 

Probably the best thing to use is Fogging Fluid. Its SPECIFIC to storing engines. Most autoparts store should have this stuff.

This would keep everything from sticking and will properly store your engine. Just pull out your plugs, spray some in and rotate the engine. Keep doing this until you get all sides of the rotors. I don't think that yo can over do something like this, just don't use a whole can

After you bring it out of storage don't beat on it for like a day or so. Just drive it normally

 

ok, and where the **** am i supposed to find this boeshield T-9 ****?

I called checker/kragen/shucks, pepboys, NAPA, red rooster... no one has ever heard of it

 

I mail order it. If you have a BIG specialty woodworkers store they will carry it. The woodwoekers dig this stuff.