My car has been sitting for 8 moths, ran it hard, now the engine is blown ...
08-24-02, 02:53 PM
#1
...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My car has been sitting for 8 moths, ran it hard, now the engine is blown ...
... is what I WOULD be saying if some one doesnt figure out how to store a rotary correctly. 
(which i'm sure is figured out but I NEED TO KNOW).
My car will be stored while i'm off at college. Since no one is answering my question fully in this thread : https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...0&pagenumber=1 , I need to know how to stop the carbon buildup.
Yes, you've all heard stories of cars sitting then POP GOES THE ENGINE after some hard driving....
I KNOW NOT TO USE AFT, and the "engine foam" will stop internal rust/seizure. BUT WILL IT STOP THE CARBON? and if not, what will?
(which i'm sure is figured out but I NEED TO KNOW).My car will be stored while i'm off at college. Since no one is answering my question fully in this thread : https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...0&pagenumber=1 , I need to know how to stop the carbon buildup.
Yes, you've all heard stories of cars sitting then POP GOES THE ENGINE after some hard driving....
I KNOW NOT TO USE AFT, and the "engine foam" will stop internal rust/seizure. BUT WILL IT STOP THE CARBON? and if not, what will?
08-24-02, 03:02 PM
#2
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Oswego, NY
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not shure about you're question, You want to know how to stop carbon build up from just sitting in storage? or day to day driving?
EDIT: BTW driving the **** out of any engine after 8 months of storage will kill it.
EDIT: BTW driving the **** out of any engine after 8 months of storage will kill it.
Last edited by SilverT2; 08-24-02 at 03:07 PM.
08-24-02, 04:04 PM
#3
...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, the car will be sitting for 8 months. And every seven I konw that has come out of storage has blown the engine....
The reason? Most likely carbon buildup from sitting so long. So how the **** can can i prevent this? That's my question that NO ON seems to know the answer to...
The reason? Most likely carbon buildup from sitting so long. So how the **** can can i prevent this? That's my question that NO ON seems to know the answer to...
08-24-02, 04:16 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Roanoke
Posts: 501
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Carbon results from the burning of fuel and oil....not from sitting with nothing running through the engine. As far as storing it....i'd just put some motor oil in the spark plug holes and turn it over by hand with the spark plugs out to coat everything well. Not sure about draining the coolant though.....someone help out on this one. Of course....it would be better if someone could drive it every month for a few hours.
Todd
Todd
08-24-02, 04:50 PM
#6
Back from teh deadly!
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Louisville KY 40299
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by akageals
Carbon results from the burning of fuel and oil....not from sitting with nothing running through the engine. As far as storing it....i'd just put some motor oil in the spark plug holes and turn it over by hand with the spark plugs out to coat everything well. Not sure about draining the coolant though.....someone help out on this one. Of course....it would be better if someone could drive it every month for a few hours.
Todd
Carbon results from the burning of fuel and oil....not from sitting with nothing running through the engine. As far as storing it....i'd just put some motor oil in the spark plug holes and turn it over by hand with the spark plugs out to coat everything well. Not sure about draining the coolant though.....someone help out on this one. Of course....it would be better if someone could drive it every month for a few hours.
Todd
What he said.
08-24-02, 04:58 PM
#7
Getting Boosted
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Ft Myers Fl
Posts: 927
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dre i would not worry about carbon build up. if it happend just spray a shot of atf in it for a min then run it out. dont let it sit in there just long enough for it to burn it off
Trending Topics
08-24-02, 08:44 PM
#8
What Subscription?
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Aiken SC USA
Posts: 5,926
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Like we said in the other thread.
Run the car hard to make sure the engine is cleaned out.
Do the lay-up properly.
When you come out of storage:
1. Fresh plugs
2. Change oil
3. Check all Fluids
4. remove all coverings over the openings
5. Start and drive around for at least 50 miles or so.
6. Change oil again.
7. Treat the motor like a new engine break-in for 1000 miles
8. ENJOY!
This is what I would do. Like I have said b4 I am **** about **** like this.
Run the car hard to make sure the engine is cleaned out.
Do the lay-up properly.
When you come out of storage:
1. Fresh plugs
2. Change oil
3. Check all Fluids
4. remove all coverings over the openings
5. Start and drive around for at least 50 miles or so.
6. Change oil again.
7. Treat the motor like a new engine break-in for 1000 miles
8. ENJOY!
This is what I would do. Like I have said b4 I am **** about **** like this.
08-25-02, 12:51 AM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: hanford california
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my car sat in my parents garage for 7 months when i was on cruise onboard the ENTERPRISE in the arabian sea last year. the only thing that went wrong was the battery(discharged) the car was in great shape and noone drove it the entire time i was gone. but id still say take it easy for the first couple miles or so.
08-25-02, 02:33 AM
#12
...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by banzaitoyota
Like we said in the other thread.
Run the car hard to make sure the engine is cleaned out.
Do the lay-up properly.
When you come out of storage:
1. Fresh plugs
2. Change oil
3. Check all Fluids
4. remove all coverings over the openings
5. Start and drive around for at least 50 miles or so.
6. Change oil again.
7. Treat the motor like a new engine break-in for 1000 miles
8. ENJOY!
This is what I would do. Like I have said b4 I am **** about **** like this.
Like we said in the other thread.
Run the car hard to make sure the engine is cleaned out.
Do the lay-up properly.
When you come out of storage:
1. Fresh plugs
2. Change oil
3. Check all Fluids
4. remove all coverings over the openings
5. Start and drive around for at least 50 miles or so.
6. Change oil again.
7. Treat the motor like a new engine break-in for 1000 miles
8. ENJOY!
This is what I would do. Like I have said b4 I am **** about **** like this.
Seriously? Ugh, storing the Wankel SUCKS
08-25-02, 02:36 AM
#13
My cars louder than yours
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Dre, how about i just go down there and drive you car to GA and keep it driven and driven HARD while you are gone. When you come back just come down to GA and drive it back. 
heh heh
heh heh
08-25-02, 03:07 AM
#14
...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hehe...ok this is what i'm gonna do... see if you can find any flaws:
STORING
(not in any particular order)
1. remove battery
2. wash/was car
3. take off wheels (and put up on jacks)
4. spray suspension components and underbody with some anti-rust stuff
5. top off all fluids
6. full tank gas and STA-BIL addative
7. Car cover
8. plug exhaust and any other open areas for rodents
9. moth *****
10. armorall inside
11. keep battery charged
12. Marine engine fog all 6 chambers/rotor faces... heavily.
13. Vacuum out interior.
IN THE SPRING
(no order in particular, and aside from the obvious (like remove car cover
))
1. Change oil
2. Flush/fill radiator
3. New spark plugs
4. check/fill all other fluids
5. run a few bottles injector cleaner
6. drive it easy for first 100-500 miles or so.... drive it regularly from then on
7. wash/wax car
8. A U T O C R O S S
!
Seem good? Oh yeah, what can I put on the paint to keep the car from rusting? My car has never seen rust and i'll be dead before it ever does.
STORING
(not in any particular order)
1. remove battery
2. wash/was car
3. take off wheels (and put up on jacks)
4. spray suspension components and underbody with some anti-rust stuff
5. top off all fluids
6. full tank gas and STA-BIL addative
7. Car cover
8. plug exhaust and any other open areas for rodents
9. moth *****
10. armorall inside
11. keep battery charged
12. Marine engine fog all 6 chambers/rotor faces... heavily.
13. Vacuum out interior.
IN THE SPRING
(no order in particular, and aside from the obvious (like remove car cover
))1. Change oil
2. Flush/fill radiator
3. New spark plugs
4. check/fill all other fluids
5. run a few bottles injector cleaner
6. drive it easy for first 100-500 miles or so.... drive it regularly from then on
7. wash/wax car
8. A U T O C R O S S
!Seem good? Oh yeah, what can I put on the paint to keep the car from rusting? My car has never seen rust and i'll be dead before it ever does
.
08-25-02, 07:49 AM
#16
What Subscription?
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Aiken SC USA
Posts: 5,926
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Best anti-rust coating for machimed parts is BOEING T-9
http://www.boeshield.com/
DON'T USE ARMOR-ALL THE STUFF IS CRAP!!!!!!
http://autopia.ws/forums/showthread....=armor+AND+all
Use Aerospace 303. Armor-all screws up the plasticizers BAD!!! Armor-All review notes:
I'ts greasy, smeary and slings all over the place. It is dimethyl silicone oil too. This is a rubber degradant. The worst effects are seen when you STOP using it. It turns tires brown and dries out vinyl dashes causing them to possibly crack over time. Some tire manufacturers will not honor their warranty for sidewall failure if a silicone oil containing tire dressing was used on the tire. While your tires may not look pretty if you use it, I believe that you will most likely replace the tires on a daily driver before this stuff has a chance to do much damage. Nonetheless......I avoid it period.”
"Some have experienced long time use of Armor All can lead to dashes cracking if I'm not mistaken.”
"Armor All... "
"I have not noticed a difference in the formulation of Armor All. I get it just about every year as gifts, and have trouble finding uses for it. Many users characterize it as greasy, slings, and browns rubber and tires. Again, this is taken from Professional Detailing & Carwashing Magazine - July 2000 issue. "....improper application of both solvent- and water-based dressings on tires can result in staining of the surrounding painted surfaces. Carbon black from the tire mixes with the dressing's shine agent (silicone, glycerin or mineral oil) during application. If the vehicle is moved before this mixture dries, the mixture can be slung onto the fascia and discolor it. Plastic fascias with flex agents in the clearcoat are especially susceptible.
While higher temperatures can speed up the drying of the dressing on the tire, they can also accelerate the staining should the mixture land on the paint, making the stain much more difficult to remove.........”
“I also dislike most protectants, especially Armorall.”
"As for products that I hate, well Armor All has to be at the top of the list.”
Other than that your plan seems good.
http://www.boeshield.com/
DON'T USE ARMOR-ALL THE STUFF IS CRAP!!!!!!
http://autopia.ws/forums/showthread....=armor+AND+all
Use Aerospace 303. Armor-all screws up the plasticizers BAD!!! Armor-All review notes:
I'ts greasy, smeary and slings all over the place. It is dimethyl silicone oil too. This is a rubber degradant. The worst effects are seen when you STOP using it. It turns tires brown and dries out vinyl dashes causing them to possibly crack over time. Some tire manufacturers will not honor their warranty for sidewall failure if a silicone oil containing tire dressing was used on the tire. While your tires may not look pretty if you use it, I believe that you will most likely replace the tires on a daily driver before this stuff has a chance to do much damage. Nonetheless......I avoid it period.”
"Some have experienced long time use of Armor All can lead to dashes cracking if I'm not mistaken.”
"Armor All... "
"I have not noticed a difference in the formulation of Armor All. I get it just about every year as gifts, and have trouble finding uses for it. Many users characterize it as greasy, slings, and browns rubber and tires. Again, this is taken from Professional Detailing & Carwashing Magazine - July 2000 issue. "....improper application of both solvent- and water-based dressings on tires can result in staining of the surrounding painted surfaces. Carbon black from the tire mixes with the dressing's shine agent (silicone, glycerin or mineral oil) during application. If the vehicle is moved before this mixture dries, the mixture can be slung onto the fascia and discolor it. Plastic fascias with flex agents in the clearcoat are especially susceptible.
While higher temperatures can speed up the drying of the dressing on the tire, they can also accelerate the staining should the mixture land on the paint, making the stain much more difficult to remove.........”
“I also dislike most protectants, especially Armorall.”
"As for products that I hate, well Armor All has to be at the top of the list.”
Other than that your plan seems good.
08-25-02, 01:56 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: White Rock BC
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Probably the best thing to use is Fogging Fluid. Its SPECIFIC to storing engines. Most autoparts store should have this stuff.
This would keep everything from sticking and will properly store your engine. Just pull out your plugs, spray some in and rotate the engine. Keep doing this until you get all sides of the rotors. I don't think that yo can over do something like this, just don't use a whole can 
After you bring it out of storage don't beat on it for like a day or so. Just drive it normally
Protects motors, and internal combustion engines; Keeps pistons, rings, and cylinder walls corrosion free
After you bring it out of storage don't beat on it for like a day or so. Just drive it normally
08-25-02, 02:46 PM
#19
...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok, and where the **** am i supposed to find this boeshield T-9 ****?
I called checker/kragen/shucks, pepboys, NAPA, red rooster... no one has ever heard of it
I called checker/kragen/shucks, pepboys, NAPA, red rooster... no one has ever heard of it
