My car cuts out all kinds
My car cuts out all kinds
Well the title pretty much says it all. I was driving my 88 NA rx7 for the first time on newly rebuilt injectors, fixed vacuum leaks, and new plugs and plug wires. After i got out of my neighborhood and it warmed up, i let it rip, and much to my dismay it ran like ****. it would cut out from idle to redline every couple hundred rpms. It would occasionally die when i came to a stop, And every time it was turned off it floods. I am unsure if it is running as rich as it seems or its just spitting uncombusted gas out the exhaust from when it misses, because the car wreaks of gas when its running. I checked out all my new plugs, and checked the new wires all of which were fine.(assuming NGK wires only click once on the plug and coil). So im not sure what else to check next so if anyone cares to impart some wisdom it would be much apreciated thanks
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Assuming your car is a stock set up:
Pull trouble codes (see the write up at teamfc3s.org)
Check proper operation of the water thermo sensor circuit: proper resistance vs. temp at the sensor terminals; connector tight; check proper voltage at the pin on the ECU. (all info you need for this is in the FSM).
Check closed loop operation; single LED w current limiting resistor, hooked up btween the 2nd pin in the top and bottom rows of the test connector; at cruise (not idle), you shoud see the LED cycle on and off 8x per 10 secs. If it does not (no cycling) it is probably a problem with the O2 sensor, wiring or the ECU; if the ECU senses no O2 sensor (i.e. wiring open) then it will default to a rich condition.
Check TPS for dropouts
Check for clicking sounds at the primary and secondary injectors, using a stethescope. When you pulled the manifold to get to the injectors, there is some possibility that (esp given the age of the car) that you created an intermittent open in the wiring to one or both of the primary injectors.
Check the AFM per the FSM specs; especially for dropouts, given your symptoms...
Pull trouble codes (see the write up at teamfc3s.org)
Check proper operation of the water thermo sensor circuit: proper resistance vs. temp at the sensor terminals; connector tight; check proper voltage at the pin on the ECU. (all info you need for this is in the FSM).
Check closed loop operation; single LED w current limiting resistor, hooked up btween the 2nd pin in the top and bottom rows of the test connector; at cruise (not idle), you shoud see the LED cycle on and off 8x per 10 secs. If it does not (no cycling) it is probably a problem with the O2 sensor, wiring or the ECU; if the ECU senses no O2 sensor (i.e. wiring open) then it will default to a rich condition.
Check TPS for dropouts
Check for clicking sounds at the primary and secondary injectors, using a stethescope. When you pulled the manifold to get to the injectors, there is some possibility that (esp given the age of the car) that you created an intermittent open in the wiring to one or both of the primary injectors.
Check the AFM per the FSM specs; especially for dropouts, given your symptoms...
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