Here it is....
Thanks to cwsttu, trainwreck517, and end3r.









Here is what it originally looked like....(pic stolen from someones write up)


Tell me what you guys think....

 

The AFM needs to be level. At its current angle it will cause a leaner condition that its supposed to be. More air will be needed to pull the plunger with gravity helping it stay closed so fuel supply will be less than needed. It can also cause drivability problems.


Santiago

 

how big is the pipe? how did you enlarge that hole in the chassis? did you notice a power increase? nice job, much cleaner engine bay.

 

maybe im missing something but the AFM looks pretty damn level to me...

- chris

 

Thanks for the info, i guess tomorrow my project will be to correct that. I actually did notice that when i reved it, but it never has run that smoothly....

 

3"; drill, sheet metal cutters, pliers, a little filing, and some anti-rust paint/sealer stuff; it seems to me like there is one, but nothing huge, it could just be me, sounds pretty cool though, sounds like a better flow going through to the exhaust; ha yea on the clean engine bay, i thought about taking a picture off all of the crap i removed.

 

That's only s4, s5 it's fine to be angled a bit, and that's not even very angled as it sits.

To thread starter:

Good job, looks exactly like my old one Also, it looks like the coupler at the TB elbow is just stuffed in there? Is there anything holding it in/on? Or what? Hard to tell.

 

You could also use a 3.5" hole saw. That's what I did, and with a 3" pipe and coupler going through the hole, it's a perfect fit. A hole saw will cut the hole you need in a matter of about 2-3 seconds also

 

Looks good, looks like you just used angle bends using steel pipe, if so.. what angle bends? just strait and a 90 degree?

 

....... now to clean the front and right side of the bay. looks good!!

 

Ha, yeah it is stuffed in there right now, I'm going to seal it of with some silicone sealant tomorrow though probably.
Also, the hole saw thing....I didn't have a hole saw set for a drill, so I just made do with what I had. If only I had more tools.....

I used an aluminum straight pipe and ordered a 45 degree mandrel bend aluminum pipe.

Don't see emissions going soon b/c I live in GA. Maybe if i get a little extra money I may be able to somehow pass emissions..........Also I'm not sure if i want to get rid of ps or a/c.

Thanks for the comments guys. I guess I won't be adjusting the AFM tomorrow. I checked it anyway and moved it around and it didn't make a difference that i could tell at idle or while revved.

 

where did you get the pipes and clamp thingys from???
How much was the whole setup???

Would a HKS intake fit any how???

 

does anyone know if it would make any differnece if I had the AFM up by the TB elbow? instead of inbetween the two pipes. my CAI is exactly the same :P

 

I got the pipes from the local muffler shop. I got the "clamp thingys"(couplers and coupler rings) off of ebay. It cost me:
$40 for the piping (i had some of it special ordered to get the mandrel bend)
$15 for the couplers and rings (most of it was shipping b/c it was from ebay)
$3 for the brass barbs i tapped into the pipe
$55 for the actual filter ( i was impatient and wanted to do it then so it cost a lot
more to buy it from advance)
(If you have an s4 you'll have to buy an afm adapter i think, you can get it expensive from bonez, rb, etc. or just get one cheap off of ebay)
thats a lot from what other people were saying though, you could probably get it much cheaper if you searched more.
I would think HKS filters would work the same. I don't know if I'd trust the foam version of their filters where it is. It seems much more fragile and prone to getting dirty as well.

The AFM would have to be pretty tilted to do that. From what I've been hearing on here it would affect you more if you had an s4, but i'm not even sure it would be ok on an s5. You maybe able to modify the tb elbow to make it work, but there is a chance the hood may not shut (safely) as well. Plus you'd just be getting hot air from the engine bay, so there wouldn't be much of a point.

 

What happens if you run through a deep puddle/water ?

 

The axial orientation of the S5 AFM WILL NOT affect its readings. The mounting angle inlet to outlet will not apreciably affect the S5 meter either.

It is the S4 air flow meter that relies on mounting orientation for acuracy. The S5 is not nearly as sensitive to moutning orientation/angle.

You're fine.

 

Then i guess i get a nice steam cleaning....or so ive heard. I usually dont hit too many puddles that come up past halfway on my wheel either so i think ill be good. Actually, i drove it in the rain last night and it was fine.

Rocklobster, thanks for affirming the tilt issue about the s5 afm.

 

I noticed he has a breather on there. How will that effect as opposed to having it plug into the intake tube similiar to stock?

 

Well if you factor in the g-forces on the cone when he accelerates, he'll be perfectly stoichiometric. ;-)

 

im just curious which of those tubes did u connect to the cold air intake tube

 

Is it the AFM itsself thats less sensitive in teh S5? If so, is it possible to just stick an S5 AFM into an S4?


Nice setup btw, looks much better than stock.. and if you're worried about puddles at all, AEM makes that intake bypass valve, its relatively cheap

 

imo im not a fan of intakes that are routed into the fender area ....

i like the idea of this alot more

http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/engine/i...x/DCP00064.jpg

just maybe done a lil more professionally with plumbing coming up from the front bump slot.

 

so on my S5, my AFM is almost completely vertical, is this a problem?

 

no it is not

 

What tubes?