WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

[Begin uneducated guess]

The engine has been sitting for quite a while, dry. There wasn't any real "seal" from the oil control rings/side seals when it was first started, allowing a bunch of blow by in the first little bit of running. This fuel mixed with the oil and made it much thinner, which made it less likely to seal and the process slightly repeated a few times until you get extremely thin oil.

Now that super thin oil is getting past the rear main seal, due to that being stored dry and the oil being thinner than it should be... The good news is that it probably would have leaked anyway, just a lot slower but enough to be annoying, so at least you can take that as consolation.

I think the gas in vacuum lines is probably just gas vapors that accumulated in the oil neck and sucked back into the lines and condensed when they were saturated.....

[/end uneducated guess]

importtuner137

As to the ***** part of the past few posts... I'd post a pic of me... But, I'm really pale and not to mention flat. Sorry.

And, to solve the problem of having to trace all of my vacuum lines... I'm just going to remove the rats nest below the intake. I had a question about that though... It's an s4 with a matching turbo... What will the turbo do with the twin scroll system removed?

CrazyJason

+ 1 for making sure you have the right vacuum lines hooked up. Btw, pull the Fuel regulators hose off. It could have a blown/torn fuel regulator, and depending on where you have the vac lines, it could be pooring it straignt into your oil pan.

And are you sure you have your fuel pump running when you are checking for the fuel leaks? because it doesnt run with key on. Unless it gets a signal from the Air flow meter. (If I remember the diagram correctly.) Theres a fuel pump short conenctor at the front right shock tower, it should be white. Or you could just stick a screwdriver into the flap airflow meter and it will give a signal to the fuel pump to turn on. I usually do the latter because it tells me forsure that the AFM hasnt gone wonky.

importtuner137

I've tested it with the key in the start position. I listened for the fuel pump noise and felt the lines, they were live.

kyleaudio

iTrader: (22)

yea, crazyjason is right, just turning the key to the on position doesnt put the pump in full power, to turn it on to max jumper the yellow 2 pin connector next to the passenger side shock tower and then turn your key to the on position and see what happens.

importtuner137

Key on does not start the fuel pump, but key start/engine crank does. We tested that with the fuel lines disconnected from the pump.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Boost will build a little slower under 2700 rpm (threshold where the flapper opens). A lot of people say they don't even notice the change.

importtuner137

Alright, so today was a pretty productive day. I fabricated all of my emissions block off plates and removed the emissions systems. In doing that I learned what happened to my oil system, I think.

The vacuum diagram does a really crappy job of showing where some of the piping goes in relation to the other pipes. So, I connected the three rubber lines, (fuel in, fuel return, and charcole canister) randomly in a guess.

I know that I put the fuel in on every line at least once before I pulled the intake and did it the right way... Funny how doing something the right way gives you a better chance to succede eh?

Anyways, pulling those lines I learned that my fuel in had at one point pushed tons of fuel into the oil pan through the oil pan filler tube. After discovering that... I figured it was time to drain the oil pan.

SEVEN GALLONS OF FUEL / OIL CAME OUT!!

Couple of questions about todays work though... The vacuum line that comes from the waste gate to the back of the block. Can it be used for the boost pressure sensor?

If not I'll use a capped off line on the intake manifold.
Tomorrow I'm going to start putting everything back together and cross my fingers. Lol.

Please and thanks guys,
Scott

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I didn't know the oil pan would even hold seven gallons of liquid.

vato2000taco

iTrader: (1)

funny i was just removing my emissions and almost put my fuel return line on my vac canister line other day so i just figured thats what u did as far as for vac line in wastegate it shouldnt go on back of block . stock turbo or not? if so u have a wqastegate actuator and is hooked up on turbo compressor side nipple . as you block off emissions there will be a nipple right where the uim and lim meet tee it off for bov and boost sensor its one by passenger strut tower.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

I don't think the entire engine + oil pan can hold 7 gallons of liquid. or Engine + Oil Pan + Coolant system.

I wonder if you started to siphon off the gas in the tank and pulled everything from the tank with it.

importtuner137

Well, I had a ten gallon tank 3/4 full... I really hope I didn't syphon from the tank...

farberio

iTrader: (7)

You can check real easy, just peal the rear carpet back a bit and you will see an access panel for the fuel pump on the left hand side. (Driver Side)

You can then remove the fuel pump and take a look inside the tank. Just be sure to mark and put back the fuel lines correctly or you will reverse the fuel lines.

importtuner137

Yeh... tomorrow I'm going to put the tranny back on and everything else that I can to get her put back together... Hopfully I can finish her before my date Friday night eh?

Please no leaks, please no leaks!

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

So you were pumping gas into your oil filler neck? I would never have guessed that, glad you figured it out though, bet you never mix those lines up again huh?

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Wow, I'm glad you figured that out! I couldn't wrap my head around the idea of why / how gas got into the oil pan! And if you pulled seven gallons of fuel/oil, you were definitely siphoning off the gas tank, lol.... how many catch buckets did you go through!?!? Lol, well done....

importtuner137

So! Today officially sucks for progress. About as soon as I got in the shop I had to leave again.

Cutting a vacuum hose I cut my thumb pretty good. Dad came and picked me up, doc says cut to the bone and that I was lucky enough to miss the tendon.

I'm not going to get to finish my car by date time... I don't get to work on it for 7-10 days preferably 10.
I'm grumpy at that... But, what's done is done.

More updates as I make 'em.
Scott

importtuner137

For those that wanted to see. I took as many pics as the doc would let me while she was stitching me up.

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

Ouch Well at least you have the 'blood' part of 'blood, sweat, and tears' covered.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

how the hell did you do that cutting a vacuum hose? were you using a chain saw?

importtuner137

Well technically it wasn't a vacuum hose, it was the hose from the Intercooler to the bypass-air.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Might want to get some mechanic's gloves. I finally got a pair after countless scrapes, cuts and burns on my hands.

So, the feed line from the fuel pump was on the oil filler neck the whole time you were trying to crank the engine over? I guess that explains why the oil thinned out so badly that it could get past the rear main seal. The original seal you had in there was probably fine. I guess you'll make sure the hoses are right this time.

importtuner137

It's always the stupid simple mistakes that make us think hardest too... Oh well, I now have my emissions removed too. So, that's sweet.

I think I might re-name this thread to, "My thumb exploded!!" Lol.

junito1

good laughs

anyways.. dont forget your fuel line run backwards on JDM engines.
I have an Japan2LA motor in mine. I had 0 Fuel press and could not figure it out. THen i realized the lines were backwards...


JUst remember the FUEL PRESS REGULator( u can tell its the fpr because it has a nipple) IS the return to the tank line.

daviddeep

iTrader: (4)

Now with the bloody thumb pictures, this is even more like an episode of "House."