So I went over the mountain pass last weekend, and had some light over heating. I had to put about 60 bucks worth of coolant in my rad over the course of the weekend.

I went to a buddy's place yesterday, and as I was leaving, I checked the coolant level, and added a little more. I started my car and heard a weird clunk, then the engine lost power, and started to violently shake from side to side in my engine bay. I figure I blew a coolant seal, and lost compression to one of my rotors.

SAD DAY.

I had typical signs of the "champagne test"... and I guess it just blew on through.

I guess I need a rebuild... have no clue of the average cost. And at 180k miles on the ODO, I should probably just buy a new engine? Could use some guidance on sources and cost?

I guess for a $500 project car, I got a nice 3 months of hard pulling and easy starts out of a tired and abused engine. This is more of a "hurry up" to my already existing plans for this car.

HALP!

ALSO, if anyone knows any cheap/discounted towing in the greater Seattle area, PLEASE hook me up.

 

Pull the motor out, tear it apart and take specs on the parts to see if there within the limit.. Then you will know how much its going to cost to rebuild. But considering you got 180k out of it most parts maybe worn out....

 

I suppose that if your engine is original, you cannot complain too much about it 'only' making it to 180k mi.

Been there done that with my 86. First rebuild was by an inexpensive, local shop. It did not last long, before it blew a seal again.

My current engine is an exchange from Atkins Rotary Specialists, which I believe is up in your part of the country, and the engine has been basically bulletproof.

They are not the cheapest, but they are not the most expensive, either.

Link: http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=9

You will also need a local installer who knows the car. Do not expect anyone who is not familiar with the RX7 in detail to be able to do a good job.

 

sounds like it lost compression..it happens and the rotary always gives up the ghost at odd times..i would first start with a compression test and see where you're at. you may have lost ignition..who knows.. compression test first and then we can go from there. either way 180K on an original engine is really good!

 

Yeah, I totally agree that 180k is impressive for the original engine. I am only upset because I got so attached to the car within the last 3 months, and now its not drivable. I miss it.

I have been looking into Atkins Rotary, and understand that their rebuilds are SAVAGE. I guess its just time to save up for one of their engines. Jon over at Mazda-Tech in Lynnwood will probably be who I have install the new engine. He seems more than talented with rotaries.

I guess its just a question of what engine I should buy. I love the sound of a bridgeport, but is it worth the $650 and is there a downside to porting? And how much modification would it take to get a OEM turbo'd engine into my NA car?

 

I dont have a shop, or adequate tools, or else the engine would already be in pieces.

I also dont have measuring instruments like feeler gauges and calipers.

Anyone in the area(Lynnwood/N.Seattle) want to host a teardown? I got $$ for beers and pizza! HAHA

 

Are you trying to dd the car at all? I would do a b-port on a dd but thats my opinion, other have without much problem.

 

I wouldnt jump into a bridge port yet. First things first, find out the condition of your engine you have now. I'd love to help you but clearly i am not local to you. If you want to drop a T2 motor in its going to cost roughly $1400, depends on many things tho. But finding a great condition T2 block isnt that easy sometimes. If you are going to rebuild your n/a i highly suggest Atkins, ive spoken to them and bought rebuild kits from them before. They have never done me wrong! Maybe you can ship your motor to them and have them tell you the condition and cost of repairs. Im not sure if Kevin Landers? still does rebuilds but he is known to be cheaper and always gets the job done properly.

 

Is a 180k mile engine USUALLY ok for a rebuild? I know the only way to KNOW is to tear down and measure everything, but I don't want to get my hopes up and buy a rebuild kit, to just need a new engine anyway....

Thanks for all the help and info so far!