You are missing the point. Take the car to a dyno, add 93 octane, turn the boost to 12lbs and go with that. 12 is going to be your limit. It does not make much sence for you to try and make your stock turbo setup run higher than you will on a day to day basis. What would you prove by that. Don't blow your motor because you think its worth it to beat a eclipse once. Dyno on 93 will tell you where your afr's are at 12lbs but I hope you have ported your wastegate or by 4th gear you will find out what a boost spike is.

You next post title: Damn I blew my motor and lost the race

 

Oh yeah, I agree completely. I wasn't advocating people to go throw some high oc into their tanks and automatically believe that their car is way more badass than with pump gas.

Thats presisely what I was saying. I guess I just misread you or you stated something different because I pretty much said the exact same thing. This is just what I'm seeing. I could be WAY off and just misread you. Sorry for any misunderstandings, but I'm just going off of what I saw, or thought I saw.

 

With the stock TMIC you will not have enough air reaching the intercooler to keep intake temps down. I was doing 3rd and 4th gear pulls on the highway when I logged intake temps.

The stock turbo is VERY inefficient over 12 psi or so, and the stock TMIC cannot keep up with it. If you boost 14 psi + for 12-13 seconds straight at the track there is a good chance you will blow your motor.

 

Bad news,
My clutch went out today on the freeway in traffic. Traffic came to a stop, and when I went to put it back into 1st, it wouldn't budge. I turned the car off, shifted it into gear and then tried to start the car while holding the clutch in, but to no avail. The car just lurched forward. I had a tow truck pick up the car and tow it home. Any guesses as to what could have caused my clutch to fail so randomly? I still have hydrolic pressure in the clutch system, and the slave cylinder seems to be moving/functioning normally. I'm guessing its either a bent shift fork, failed throwout bearing, or a bad pressure plate. In any case, it looks as though I'm going to have an upgraded clutch pretty soon. Hopefully I can fix it before the weekend or the race is going to have to be postoned again.=(

What do you guys think about running the a street/strip pressure plate from Mazdatrix witha stock clutch disc? I've heard it works well.

Last question, what adverse effects does a bad tranny mount cause besides shaking when you take off slowly in 1st or reverse?

 

drop in a ACT HD 6 puck and you will love your car again. Stock sucks and I would never use anything from mazdatrix.

 

Where can I buy an ACT HD ? Im in Southern Cali.

 

www.rx7store.net will have it of course.

www.prostreetonline.com had the best prices on ACT clutches that I have found, and I did a bunch of research. They have a promotional code that you can enter to get 10% off.

Some people think that a puck clutch's engagement is a little harsh for the street, so I would do my research before I bought a 6 puck if your car is a daily driver. Personally, I run an ACT Xtreme pressure plate with a street/strip (full face) clutch. The Xtreme pp tends to kill clutch hydraulics and break clutch fork pivot *****, so be careful with that setup as well.

Depending on your power goals, I think an ACT HD pressure plate with the street/strip (full face) disk should be good as long as you're not running crazy horsepower (350+). Pedal pressure isn't much harder than stock, it holds well, and engagement is nice and smooth.

 

Make sure it’s a bad tranny mount before you replace it.
I decided to replace mine, to only find out that it wasn’t the tranny mount that caused my sputtering off the line.
It might have been that clutch that just went out.

 

I have the ACT 6 puck unsprung.......the number 1 question is: how often do you drive in heavy traffic? in mild to medium traffic it is a perfect clutch but once you get into stop and go you will hate the clutch. grips nicely, engages fine (but that depends on your driving) and will not slip. I bought it for 300 bux and installed for 60......

 

I bought and installed a Dual Friction Centerforce clutch and pressure plate. Is anybody else using this setup? I know it's not ideal, but I think it's definately better than stock and it fit my budget well. This is the 4th clutch I've bought in the 6 years I've owned the car .

BTW, the shaking in 1st and reverse was the clutch going bad. After I installed the new one it went away, good call RoninRX-7 .

 

Hi..
I have an AWD kit that will mate up with your vert.. it uses two TII Diffs and special crossmember that my business partner manufactures.

Also I would suggest to compensate on the 3465 weight of the vert I would suggest you go with a 4 Rotor that my partner can build with a Supercharger and you will be at 563 HP.

Let me know what you think and PM and I will talk to you about the info on these options for your vert... In the meantime enjoy this pic of the Lambo Door Convertible. It wears Fittipaldi Tubolares 18x10.5 rear wheels and 18x9.0 front wheels.. the tires are 275-35ZR-18 and 235-35ZR-18 up front.

My name is Val Zondervan M. of ZONDERVAN RX7 in Miami.

 

Make up for weight in a vert, by installing a 4rotor with only 560hp.... I think a 20B would be a bit easier, cheaper, and lighter, and yeild around the same results.

I can't imagine where you'd shoe-horn a TII diff in along with axles, let alone a transfer case without either raising the entire car, or cutting the floor out. Unless you rotate it and use some AWD tranny and try to fit the transfer case down the stock tranny tunnel?

 

I want AWD

 

that car would haul *** with that, i could only imagine how much it would cost tho

 

Are the fog lights the replacement for the turn signals?

 

I am the president of the Miami RX7 Club .. I didnt get a chance to put the turn signals on for that day's events .. I had a Meet on that day.. too many things to take care of from getting burgers, tents, ice and other things that i didnt have time to put the turn signals lenses on.

 

Why don't you make up a thread on this method? I'm sure many people would be interested in seeing what you have? No need to give any propriatery information, but unless you post more info, I'm calling Shenanigans. I've seen a lot of cars with 20Bs dropped in them, there's a reason that 3 rotor conversions cost a minimum of 15k.. They're shoe-horned in as it is. I can't imagine that a 4-rotor would still give you enough room to mount all of that, unless you cut out major parts of the floor and stuff.. get some pictures of this stuff. Until then, the flag of the SS Bullshit flies high

 

My vert doesn't weigh 3465 lbs., it only weighed 3003lbs stock. Now my vert weighs less than a stock turbo coupe. Mine weighs 2760lbs as measured by a truck scale near my house for $10. I doubt my vert would weigh 3465 even if i did make it AWD. I agree with SonicRaT, If I did go AWD, I would definately use a 20B.

wtfdidusay82, could you post some pictures of this AWD setup your talking about? I'm sure everyone here would like to see an AWD Rx-7 of any type.