With all the "free" mods, full exhaust, intake, and upped boost my friend did a best at 14.22 and averaged 14.3's.

So yah it all depends on what's done to either car.

 

so basically ram his car off the strip in order to win heeh jke. Ive had 2 dsm both slightly modded and i ran a 15 flat (denver). My friends stock rx7 ran a 15.4 up here as well. It all depends on the driver. If you have a sick reaction time then you're rotary will probably beat him if not keep with him. My buddy was a semi pro bracket racer back in the 80s so he knew how to drive. Good stuff. THE 7 WILL NEVER LOSE!!!! heeh later,
kevin.

 

put ice, or dry ice if you can get some on your ic, unhook ur p/s, a/c, and air pump belts if you have them, rear tires at 20 psi, fronts at 35-40. practice launching your car with boost, right before the light gets green, u need to have WOT and be around 3-5k. if you just have ur foot on the gas at half throttle or part throttle, you wont have boost. try getting some 100 octane gas, get new plugs/wires, clean out your air filter. also PRACTICE

 

get a gtech and go practice on back roads, but keep in mind you will hook alot better @ the track than on the street, so it will be easier to bog than on the street.

 

100 octane gas will do nothing but slow you down. if you are running stock boost, use 87 octane. you will have MORE power.

 

are ****** high or something man? have you even read this guys mods, just go back to page 1 and start reading. even IF he is running stock boost, he still needs atleast some premium. i really hope your high or joking.

 

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NEVER RUN LOWER THAN 91!!!!! EVER! the higher octane keeps the car from detonating.....anything lower than 91 at BOOST will blow your motor.......if you had an NA motor in your vert then 87 would be OK......I think that was PureSephorith's mistake; he may have thought you had a STOCK vert.

 

Actually, in completely stock form, stock exhaust, stock intake, stock boost, everything... the s4 turbos (don't know about s5's) were built to run off of regular just fine IIRC.

Of course, his isn't stock so yes premium would be the best idea.

 

LOOSE WEIGHT - It's free power.
Strip every thing you can.
No more than 1/3 full of gas. (gas is heavy)

I personally leave 1st early & let 2nd do the real grunt. Maybe try it once & see how it works for you.

If you can get away with it, rub a snow cone (unflavored) on the IC..

 

lol

HHTurboVert got any pics of your car with the body kit on it

 

nooo u stole my idea. neways, i see ppl do it all the time at the track, so why wouldnt he get away with it?

 

crushed ICE on the IC...close the hood and race?

 

I have an idea that would do similar things as ice on the intake, only it would be more professional than a bag of ice strapped to the ****. It goes like this: you have a tank filled with refridgerant (R-134), an electric compressor, a valve with an outlet and an inlet, copper tubing that runs through the car and coils around the intake tube. Over this will be an insulative blanket. Now, compressed refridgerant, as you may know, gets COLD. This would lower the intake temps phenominally I believe.

 

get some drag radials

 

NOOO compressed refridgerant HEATS UP. EXPANDING refridgerant gets cold. Thats why there is a condensor to cool the compressed a/c refridgerant, to make it ice cold once it is allowed to expand through a thermal expansion valve or a fixed oriface tube.

 

Sorry for not responding sooner, it's finals week and I'm pretty bogged down. To address a few of the questions/concerns you guys raised:

My pals AWD is modded, by me. HKS Electronic boost controller(EVC), front mount intercooler, 3" turbo back, intake filter, no A/C, no front bumper support, stripped rear cabin( car weighs just about 2900lbs), and running 14psi of boost (can't run more or he'll detonate). I installed an AFC-2 in his car as well, but its not tuned yet so it's not going to help him any =)
He has dragged his AWD before, it ran a best of 14.7 at LACR(2700' elevation) at 16psi before installing the FMIC.

FYI, he does know how to launch his traction monster.

As for my car, It's definitley lighter than his, I have removed alot of weight from my convertible. Last weigh in was at 2760lbs. Way too much stuff removed to list.
I am currently boosting about 10psi (spikes 12psi in 3rd w/MBC fully open) on 91 octane and have NEVER detonated. This is most likey due to my rewired walbro, it keeps my car plenty rich at 12psi according to my A/F ratio gauge(peice of **** I know..) I plan on using 100+ octane on the track and upping the boost, possibly to 14 psi(Yikes!). What do you guys think about that?

I know my car can hang with his because we ran off a rolling start and I pulled a car length on him in less that a few secs. I just need to stay close behind him when he launches on me.

Lowering my tire pressure is a great suggestion. This is the type of tip I was looking for. I will definately lower my tire pressure before the race, but how much(25psi?). I'm also not sure what wheels and tires I should use though(can't afford slicks). Should I use my stock convertible rims with 205's or my MUCH heavier and larger 17's with 225's. There is about a 6lb per rim difference between the stock vert rims (11lbs), and my cheap *** 17's (17 lbs). I think that these heavy rims cancel out alot of the benitfit of my light-weight flywheel(17lbs). What do you guys think?

Shifting high in 1st(7500) and lower in second and third sounds like the best idea from all the suggestions so far, any other people agree with me on this.

My car will definately bog if I drop the clutch at 4K. With a lightened flywheel, you don't store as much rotational inertia in the spinning flywheel. So if your car launches best at 4K, mine would definately have to launch a little higher.

Ohh yeah, I you look at my sig, you'll notice that I have a wet nitrous system. I blew my n/a engine using this system and have been hesitant to use it on my turbo engine, but I have gotten on it briefly. Unfortunately my boost skyrockets so it doesn't look like I'll be able to use it till I port my waste gate =(.
- I just found out that your battery must be located in it's OEM position to race in the street legal catagory this Sat in fontana. =( Maybe I'll put another battery in the engine bay to get them off my back?

 

Wait where at? off the 15? 1/8th mile at california speedway off 6th street exit? i'm there if i can be, i'm in maryland right now tho

 

This is the 1/4 mile track in fontana at the california speed way. You can get directions at www.californiaspeedway.com $10 to watch and $20 to race. See ya there.

 

if you'd all read my damn post I said "if you are running STOCK boost". its funny how many people can quote it and criticize it without actually reading it. 87 for a stock TII engine is exactly what you should run. Don't tell me this it will blow your engine BS, this has been covered before and I personally run nothing other than 87 in my TII. If he is not running stock boost then he should run the LOWEST octane he can without detonation. Telling him to run 100 octane gas is just going to slow him down.

edit: I just read that you are running 91 without pinging. Excellent, if you run the same boost at the track then continue to use 91. If you do decide to run higher boost then 100 octane is a good choice. Do not simply put 100 octane in and change nothing else. That is useless and you will have less power.

 

read his mods, he isnt running stock boost.

again, read his mods.

its not bs. ask me how i know.

good for you.

uh, when you go race, you usually turn up the boost more than what you run on the street.

 

I'm still leary. The DSM can drop the hammer and fly. The AWD system lets them get away with seriously ridiculous crap. My roommate's car was running 10.50's all day long on Uniroyals. (!!!)

 

Except the break so damn often.

 

"If he is not running stock boost then he should run the LOWEST octane he can without detonation. Telling him to run 100 octane gas is just going to slow him down."

Uhhh, actually you're wrong there buddy. Octane ratings go like this: the higher, the less likely to detonate prematurely. I don't know where you're pulling your info from, but I'm gonna have to disagree strongly. In a turbo motor, you want fuel that is LESS likely to detonate prematurely.

 

are people seriously this dumb about octane. "he should run the LOWEST octane he can without detonation." Meaning he is not experiencing detonation. I know how "octane ratings go". You want fuel that won't detonate prematurely but that doesn't mean you should just throw in the highest you can find for no damn reason.

lowest without detonation. What i've been saying this whole time. It is indisputably correct.

 

Yes, it is. However, since most people who drag tend to 'tweak' a bit, and are always just pushing the envelope a little further, higher is nice for when you go doing that.