This coming Saturday I need get my new parts car on and off of a flatbed trailer. Original owner can't find the key, and the steering wheel is locked.

Any suggestions on how I can disengage the steering wheel lock just for the move? Seller is adamant that the car be gone by Saturday.

Its an '89 GXL.

 

I once brought a locksmith/key maker the passenger-side door handle of my FC and he was able to make a functioning key for the car. It cost me $25. A week later... my girlfriend at the time, found the key in her parent's couch.

This is probably a long shot... Does the guy have the key number? (My '87 GXL has a specific four digit number on the key.)

 

No key number. His son lost the key many years ago. Having a hard time finding anything about the steering wheel lock in the haynes manual.

 

If I remove the ignition switch will that release the steering wheel? What exactly is happening when the wheel locks, unlocks?

 

yep. you'll want a flatblade or good sharp punch and a hammer as you'll have to slowly tap the bolts that hold the ignition on the column round. it's a pita but doesn't take too long

 

A couple options here.
The easiest key assembly to get off is the hatch assembly.Take that to a locksmith and he can make you a key.
OR get the VIN of the car and go to a Dealer and they can match up a Key for your car..
Lastly.pop the steering surround off and you will see 2 round Headed bolt tops on the top clamp of the ignition switch.(they are "security bolts,they are not Hex shaped so not easily taken off in a hurry!!)Take a Flat head screw driver and Dig it in to the RIGHT side of the round headed bolt,so it will turn those things Counterclockwise.(unscrewing the round headed bolt).
What you are trying to do is unscrew that bolt when you hit the screwdriver with a hammer,so make sure that it dig into the head of that bolt.That usually works to get the Ignition off.
Then pull the ignition off the column.You can leave the wiring on.
The ignition switch has a small "keyway" that goes into the steering column to lock the Steering,BUT once you got the ignition switch off the column the steering will Move as "normal"
Good luck to ya.STYX.

 

I thought the hatch used a totally separate key? I know mine does.

And I have tried to get a key made at the dealership before, providing the VIN... It was a no go. :-/

 

+1! this is what i do too... takes about 10 minutes

 

So remove steering wheel. Remove ignition cover. And then knock those 2 round bolts out per mister styx's instructions. Seems simple enough.

 

i leave the steering wheel on. if its a tilt column, just pivot down. if not there are 2 bolts holding the column to the dash

 

Someone changed your hatch lock, they all use a single key

Hatch contains all the info to make a new key

 

^ Interesting. My ignition key works on both doors. My hatch key works on the hatch and both storage bins.

Good information. Wish I only needed one key. Not that it is a big deal using the hatch release.

 

I once picked up a shell from PA it had no keys and i was using a tow bar. I pulled out one of the joints in the steering rack/engine bay so the front wheels could steer freely for the tow. Very easy to do.

 

I bet my key would open your bins, lol
I had to do this twice at the locksmith, who is right across the street from my shop. Looking it up in the computer she told me the hatch contained all the info. Lets say there are 12 pins total, the hatch has all 12, the door might have 9, bins might have 5- not exact numbers but you get the idea.

No way i would bother locking the bins, only keep a honest person out, everyone else will just break them causing more damage

 

Ha, thx for the plan b.

 

THAT is very useful information to get a replacement key made. In addition, hatch/trunk mechanism is fairly easy to get to and pull.

I thank you, and all future searching forum members thank you.

Almost as easy as taking your VIN to the dealer to get a replacement key made.

 

its EASIER, takes a few minutes and no aggravation dealing with that parts guy who is usually grouchy and negative

both times I paid $25 and got 2 keys, the owners sister works the counter and she does me no favors.

 

Hey I just have a question about the locks

I know the locks, after so many years, are all messed up left and right.

but I wonder if it's still that bad when it's "new", meaning when it's new, I can't open the door with any FC keys right ?

Reason I ask is my door locks are sorta f-ed up, I can sometimes open the door with my screw driver (yep)

so I was thinking of getting new locks but if it's really that sucky (meaning I can open it with any FC keys regardless of new/old), then I don't see a point getting a new FC locks.

 

That just means most likely the tumblers are gummed up with ancient grease and grit and are stuck in the open position. Pull them, clean each one with solvent and put back EXACTLY where and how you pulled them, and it will be almost as good as new.

 

i guess i will try that, never work on a lock before

oh, i assume there is some sort of grease or lube for door locks and its not wd40, right?

 

Here's an update. I was only able to get the right side bolt off via styx's instructions. That left bolt held on for dear life. I pounded so long on that sucker I almost cut all the way through it with my screw driver. About the point I was considering just cutting the clamp with a sawz-all, I realized the ignition switch/clamp was loose enough to slightly dislodge it, releasing the steering wheel. Success! Thx guys.

 

Graphite is your best bet. WD40 will free things up for a short while, but it tends to attract dirt and debris, gumming up the lock in the long run.