Well i raced this guy with a M3, blew his doors off.... i get off the highway, and my cars idling really bad, 9vac on the boost gauge and the motors shaking so badly its almost poping out of the engine bay...So i did a compresion test today, 115psi front/60psi back.. Weird thing is the back rotor the compressions were all even, 60psi.. So does this mean i blew all 3 apex seals? My friend said it could have so much carbon that the seals got stuck. because of the way my cars setup, its at 14volts when i start it and it floodes often if i dont start it right since it goes in loop mod.. could it have anything to do with carbon build up?? at one point i was REALLY rich when i went to the dyno, and i am wondering if from that and other times or flooding it, would it have anything to do with it... It just dosent make sense, i tnned my car, and my A/F is around 11.5, so i really didnt think itd lean out

 

Wasn't this the 10AE I saw on EBay for sale at $12000?

 

Hey, actually I have the same problems as you cept I also have an accompained loss of power... except I havent done a compression test yet... I'm hoping its carbon and seals on mine too cuz its running pig rich but thats being pretty optimistic on my part. Hopefully things go well for you... sorry I dont have much insight into your problem though =(

 

My engine was shaking just as bad, like if wanted to come out of the engine bay.

And When I opened up the motor, I could'nt even find te apex seals. I'd never seen a housing and rotor in such bad shape.

The good news was that the other housing and rotor where just fine.

I'll post pics tomorrow.




BTW. the week just before it blew, I had just smoked an FD. I guess I was the one that really lost

 

Even if you didnt break apex seals, (you probably did, in a small area)the engine won't run for **** with those numbers, so one way or another it needs to come apart.

BTW< everyone seems to think that you have to run lean to break seals in a rotary. You do not. They do, just plain wear out. They break from being worn to 60% or less of their original height. The more material that wears away, the thinner the seal gets, the weaker it gets. They can just break, from stress, from age, whatever, not from forcible explosion like detonation.

You don't think that NA rotaries detonate, do you?

 

hypntyz7 ......this is a reman with 12k on it... I mean its still a new motor, if you ask me.. So i really would never think of wear and tear at this point of the motors life....

 

Ok, i was reading up on the ATF Trick, and i ran across this.... " I decided to try running carb cleaner through a vaccuum line. I popped a vacuum line off the intake manifold, and stuck the little red spray tube (you know the ones, comes with all spray lubes) into the vac line, stuck the throttle at about 2000 rpms, and pressed the valve on the carb cleaner- letting it all get sucked in
I emptied the entire can into the vacuum line!!! (Took a few minutes) and of course the car ran like crap while it was going through....The car runs much smoother... and TO MY AMAZEMENT... I looked at my exhaust tips, and the insides were clean!!!!! A lot of the carbon in the exhaust was actually cleaned out!!!."..... Is this somthing affective? Or can it realyl damage anything?

 

Weren't you running dangerously lean on the dyno? Hence the large amount of torque versus HP on the dyno graph?

 

Yer exhaust must have been hungry.

 

T210thAnniv:

it works great did it to my 87 GXL and it ran great note: take your downpipe off had to gut my cat's after words lot's of carbon. helped alot.

 

Well the dyno i posted was my Max values... But on richened it out more on my final run.. A/F was about 11.5 or so

Mage-
I dont have cats no worrys on that

 

so the better question would be did this restore your compression or did it not? only you can answer the question whether or not it worked or not!

 

well im about to do the Carb cleaner right now... and then try to ATF trick.. Ill post later tonight to see how it turns out..

 

well just did the carb cleaner ****... No diff really... I dont even think im going to bother with the ATF trick... Its blown, no trying to deny it... So im going to start ripping her apart for a rebuild and a street port

 

So this will be her third engine? with 26k miles? Wow... what a beast!

 

Ya #3 motor...Its ok though, i really wanted to street port anyways, and add an FD upper and lower intake on... Im also really curious to see what happened when i take the motor apart. 60 psi in back and there all even...hmmmm

Also im going to buy a freaking standalone!!! no more of this gay *** piggy back s-afc ****.

My Goal will be 350rwhp @10psi with a T04 turbo and a big street port

n4ji- Please stop ***** posting... you double posted that quote... What is the point you are trying to make? I blew my motor so what? I have time, winters coming up, and it will give me somthing productive to do And its at 47k miles rigth now

 

jreynish: dont know never did comp test but with gutted catt's I went from going uphill in 1st at 5mph WOT to 1st at 70 at WOT I say it worked.


T210thAnniv: sucks man just give you time to modd it more tho!

 

Here they go


Yes!!! ECU is a great idea

 

ouch

 

That's normal damage for blown apex motors, be it from detonation, or simple wear and breakage of apex seals.