Hey guys!

I'm putting my RX back on the road but accidentaly brought motorcycle oil instead of car oil. The one I brought is Castrol Actevo X-TRA 4T 20W50.
The question is, can I use this one or should I change to a car oil. I still haven't used it because I noticed this before opening the oil can.

Thanks in advance.

 

i dunno if u wanna run 20w50 i do in the summer sometimes.. if you intend to run 20w 50 i wouldn't care if it was on the motorcycle isle..

 

It might be ok, but i'd be inclined to take it back and swap it for car oil. Motor cycle oil is usually formulated around being used as gearbox, wet clutch, and motor oil all at the same time so it might be a bit different formula and not quite ideal.

 

isn't it recommended to run 20-50 in the summer on these??????

 

Motorcycle oil is fine to use. As above, it has friction modifiers for the gears and clutches in a bike. 20w50 is ok to use, but primarily in the summer. The big thing is to make sure you get it nice and warmed up before driving. I am wondering how you managed to scamper away with bike oil by mistake, seeing as it's usually twice the cost of regular synthetic oil.

 

Not sure I have ever heard of anyone using motorcycle oil, but I know many in the past who used diesel oil in the past.

As far as viscosity, we can debate it all day long. It would be like reading a thread on "bobistheoilguy.com". It's a real site and this isn't a shameless plug for them, just pointing out the bickering that goes on there. There is however some VERY useful information the concerning motor oil if you wade through the BS.

I live in Texas so 20w-50 is a must in the summer time. I could use it all year, but I usually run 10w-40 for the winter and 20w-50 for the summer. See attached image from the FSM below...

 

You already hit the nail on the head, viscosity arguments are just that. Arguments, but there is some fact mixed in the fiction. I have spend many hours reading on bobistheoilguy. That site is what prompted me to go from the 10w30 I was running in my Dodge SRT-4 back to the factory recommended 5w30. I experienced better fuel economy, faster warmups, and less lifter noise. Granted I went from using Kendall 10w30 to using LiquiMoly 5w30 LongLife, so I'm sure the overall quality was the big factor there.

In a rotary, just use the FSM chart and go with a good oil. Don't use synthetic if you still have the OMP active.

 

I run 20w-50 year round, but live in GA.

 

I believe summer specs all year anywhere that doesn't get snow.

 

Thanks a lot to all of you. I'm still thinking about going there to change it.

I was at a motorcycle parts shop buying some parts for a bike and asked if they had mineral engine oil and they gave me this one. I didn't remember that bike and car oil were different at the time and it was cheap (25€/5L) so I didn't remmember that until I got home.

The weather in here never gets below 5ºC so I think it's ok to use a 20W50 but usualy I use 15W.

All the infor I got on the internet about this oil says it's semi-synthetic but on the can, it doesn't say anything about it. That's what is worrying me most right now.

I think I'll go and buy a new one.

Thank you all once again!

 

im on rotella right now FYI

long ago a thread came up on this and it seems like 10-30 and 20-50 had the least ash deposits.
i ran one summer one winter for the longest time...

 

Take it back. Yes, it's part synthetic and only a SG rated oil that was obsolete years ago.
Not for cars produced after 1993 and will not provide protection against sludge, oxidation and wear.
The newer engine oils are far superior.
I actually use a diesel/gasoline oil Rotella T 15-40.

 

He he motorcycle oil is just a name so they can charge you twice the price with no real benefits... i use regular 20-50 "car oil" on my bike and there isnt a difference, except for the price

 

I like Rotella T 15-40. Seems to be a good number range and has better or more additives (zinc etc). Should increase bearing life.

 

I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with you on the differences. Motorcycle oil DOES have more additives, BUT many motorcycles, including mine, only show the API rating required which is what regular oil meets. My bike calls for, according to the FSM, 10w40 SM spec oil, which is regular ol' dino oil. I have been using AmsOil synthetic in my bike for years. When I first got the bike I used regular oil, then changed. With the change, I saw a decrease in coolant temp of about 10 degrees farenheit, better fuel economy, smoother clutch engagement, better free rev and more power. I also had less lifter noise, so there is a difference. My progression was regular Chevron brand 10w40, to Honda Motorcycle 10w40, to AmsOil synthetic 10w40. Each progression improved bike performance.

 

Get a better bike,jeez.(hehe jk)
Ive tried from royal purple to the stores' brand and everything in between and i havent felt a difference, except for the service intervals(cheaper=shorter).
Clutch feels the same, engine idles the same...maybe its the difference in motorcycles?
I used to think they were different also, but i realize its just marketing

 

I have no idea what kind of bike you have, but mine is a 2003 Suzuki SV650S. First year of FI, but I personally felt a difference. I didn't believe it as well at first. Especially with the temp change, but the oil additives are a bit different. I do think that they do overcharge big time for the oil. 1 liter of Amsoil is $15 vs $6 for a decent synthetic, but in my application I felt a difference, so I will continue to use it.

At least your bike doesn't care, because mine does. If it didn't make a difference in mine, believe me, I would change.

 

05 cbr600rr here..
never changed my oil so i dunno if it would get better..( had 1 year put 200miles on it) too scary.

 

I have a 2000 zx6r. I think it will have something to do with the different engines, idk.
Lastphase, just keep riding, lose that fear. Just be safe moto bro