the motor is PEACED OUT!
i can't believe you mapped it all the way to 28PSI+, you crazy bastards. 
i figured the 3 foot flames it was shooting every shift was a good indication the engine was happy, i guess not. pig rich does not counteract even the best pump gas with enough boost.

i figured the 3 foot flames it was shooting every shift was a good indication the engine was happy, i guess not. pig rich does not counteract even the best pump gas with enough boost.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Sep 11, 2006 at 02:42 AM.
got a few questions. What gasket blew on your turbo? Do you have vband or 4bolt? Also i have been worrying about this for a while now while building my turbo machine and you have kind of confirmed it. Most single people I see go to the stainless steel wastegate lines and I wasn't sure to go with that or just go with rubber and then put thermal tape around it. What where you using to cause the line to melt? Anyways sorry to see the motor go, I'm always thinking, when is jrat's motor going to go and at least you know it wasn't the tune. Also can't wait to see what port job you do and how much power you get with that t61
Originally Posted by J-Rat
Oh yea, I am going with stainless line from here on out. That was total bullshit. That motor would still be happy right now if it wasnt for that ****..
Originally Posted by J-Rat
Looks like I didnt actually pull the wastegate line off, it burned through from the exhaust!
thats probably the easiest place to burn a vac hose just because it's right next to all the exhaust stuff including the manifold, turbo and wastegate. Most people run stainless lines to combat this problem.
There goes the ported irons, fresh bearing'd rotors and maybe *gulp*, his new housings.
ouch... yeah i noticed it and shut it off just before the oil light went solid, added 5 quarts and drove it 2 miles to my shop leaving about 4 quarts along the way leaving an easily visible trail all the way, lol.
Originally Posted by Karack
ouch... yeah i noticed it and shut it off just before the oil light went solid, added 5 quarts and drove it 2 miles to my shop leaving about 4 quarts along the way leaving an easily visible trail all the way, lol.
Originally Posted by Karack
S5 rear iron is on the way for mine.
i had already thought about dowel pinning the motor but i really don't feel like unlayering the whole sammich at this time.
i had already thought about dowel pinning the motor but i really don't feel like unlayering the whole sammich at this time.
Originally Posted by Karack
ouch... yeah i noticed it and shut it off just before the oil light went solid, added 5 quarts and drove it 2 miles to my shop leaving about 4 quarts along the way leaving an easily visible trail all the way, lol.

I bought a TII far far away with a busted oil line (which popped going WOT - oops! Yeah, couldn't resist) and had to park car in unknown neighborhood for the night. I didin't remember where I parked it when I got back at the crack of dawn...
We followed the oil off the onramp
Originally Posted by classicauto
chuck a Pineapple pan on there, might help with torsional stiffness
you're kidding right?
heh, if you don't remember i raised a stink over the pans.. a) the price wasn't exactly low, b) cast pans will shatter if even a large enough rock hits it hard enough, c) people have already had issues with pineapple's pans having porous castings and leaking oil. not my preference, i would rather throw a baffle plate in there, stick with the stock stamped steel pan and make my own steel torsion brace for the deck. dowel pinning would be the best method to fight this twisting but i don't feel like going that far just yet.
cracked mine (S4 rear plate) right around the dowl pin area
I kept the plate, just had the oil run from the side of the front plate to a -8AN line to a oil pedestal that fed the turbo...
I kept the plate, just had the oil run from the side of the front plate to a -8AN line to a oil pedestal that fed the turbo...






