2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

the motor is PEACED OUT!

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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:35 AM
  #26  
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i can't believe you mapped it all the way to 28PSI+, you crazy bastards.

i figured the 3 foot flames it was shooting every shift was a good indication the engine was happy, i guess not. pig rich does not counteract even the best pump gas with enough boost.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Sep 11, 2006 at 02:42 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 05:38 AM
  #27  
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got a few questions. What gasket blew on your turbo? Do you have vband or 4bolt? Also i have been worrying about this for a while now while building my turbo machine and you have kind of confirmed it. Most single people I see go to the stainless steel wastegate lines and I wasn't sure to go with that or just go with rubber and then put thermal tape around it. What where you using to cause the line to melt? Anyways sorry to see the motor go, I'm always thinking, when is jrat's motor going to go and at least you know it wasn't the tune. Also can't wait to see what port job you do and how much power you get with that t61
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 10:05 AM
  #28  
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Oh yea, I am going with stainless line from here on out. That was total bullshit. That motor would still be happy right now if it wasnt for that ****..
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 11:01 AM
  #29  
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sorry to hear your motor farted out on ya. Time to make it breathe properly!!
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 01:16 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by J-Rat
Oh yea, I am going with stainless line from here on out. That was total bullshit. That motor would still be happy right now if it wasnt for that ****..
so what is it? -3AN line that will just fit right over the vac nipples then just use a hose clamp?
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 01:30 PM
  #31  
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At least you went out on a high note.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 03:08 PM
  #32  
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Man, sorry to hear it. At least now you can run a good motor with that set up! Numbers should be real nice!
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 05:51 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by J-Rat
Looks like I didnt actually pull the wastegate line off, it burned through from the exhaust!
woah, that sucks! how the hell did that hose get THAT hot? was it silicone or rubber? are you sure something else didnt catch on fire or leak onto it (hot oil?) that burned through it?
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 06:10 PM
  #34  
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thats probably the easiest place to burn a vac hose just because it's right next to all the exhaust stuff including the manifold, turbo and wastegate. Most people run stainless lines to combat this problem.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 11:27 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by hondahater
Most people run stainless lines to combat this problem.

that makes sence
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 02:04 AM
  #36  
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It makes sense actually.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 02:10 AM
  #37  
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tough to get some light in there but my crack was in the typical location.

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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 03:52 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Karack
tough to get some light in there but my crack was in the typical location.

That's so heinous... That actually recently just happened to my buddy "turbine" and his s4 TII motor. He was running 18psi out of his BNR stage IV with water-injection/Haltech etc. He was on his own tune and was having a hard time setting the timing maps correctly... Problem is, he didn't notice what had happened until his motor seized... There goes the ported irons, fresh bearing'd rotors and maybe *gulp*, his new housings.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 04:00 AM
  #39  
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ouch... yeah i noticed it and shut it off just before the oil light went solid, added 5 quarts and drove it 2 miles to my shop leaving about 4 quarts along the way leaving an easily visible trail all the way, lol.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 04:06 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Karack
ouch... yeah i noticed it and shut it off just before the oil light went solid, added 5 quarts and drove it 2 miles to my shop leaving about 4 quarts along the way leaving an easily visible trail all the way, lol.
sounds like what happened to me when i popped an oil cooler line...but I drove 20 miles...constantly dumping quart after quart of oil in...
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 01:33 PM
  #41  
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i had an oil cooler line blow, cept when that happened i lost 4 quarts in the matter of 1 block.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 01:46 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Karack
tough to get some light in there but my crack was in the typical location.

damn, time for an S5 or -RE rear plate.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 01:48 PM
  #43  
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tell ya'll what wont blow a rear iron. an american made v8.
i kid, i kid.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 01:51 PM
  #44  
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S5 rear iron is on the way for mine.

i had already thought about dowel pinning the motor but i really don't feel like unlayering the whole sammich at this time.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 03:47 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Karack
S5 rear iron is on the way for mine.

i had already thought about dowel pinning the motor but i really don't feel like unlayering the whole sammich at this time.
chuck a Pineapple pan on there, might help with torsional stiffness
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 04:06 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Karack
ouch... yeah i noticed it and shut it off just before the oil light went solid, added 5 quarts and drove it 2 miles to my shop leaving about 4 quarts along the way leaving an easily visible trail all the way, lol.
Anyone else do this?

I bought a TII far far away with a busted oil line (which popped going WOT - oops! Yeah, couldn't resist) and had to park car in unknown neighborhood for the night. I didin't remember where I parked it when I got back at the crack of dawn...

We followed the oil off the onramp
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 08:56 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by classicauto
chuck a Pineapple pan on there, might help with torsional stiffness

you're kidding right?

heh, if you don't remember i raised a stink over the pans.. a) the price wasn't exactly low, b) cast pans will shatter if even a large enough rock hits it hard enough, c) people have already had issues with pineapple's pans having porous castings and leaking oil. not my preference, i would rather throw a baffle plate in there, stick with the stock stamped steel pan and make my own steel torsion brace for the deck. dowel pinning would be the best method to fight this twisting but i don't feel like going that far just yet.
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 09:42 AM
  #48  
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Cant wait to see how bad I cracked it!
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 09:50 AM
  #49  
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this is why I have S5 irons :P

You going halfie now?

your new user text should be 28 PSI NO FEAR or something.

Was this on 91?
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 06:31 PM
  #50  
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cracked mine (S4 rear plate) right around the dowl pin area
I kept the plate, just had the oil run from the side of the front plate to a -8AN line to a oil pedestal that fed the turbo...
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