More power for a 87 NA auto
Thread Starter
87 Series IV RX7
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Perth, Western Australia
0-60 in 15 seconds? My car does it in around 8 seconds.
It starts of a bit slow, then when it hits around 5000rpm it goes off... It makes a mad as whistle noise, kinda like a turbo. but not!
Maybe finding a good place to put a pod will create a bit of power, an exhaust definetly does a good job. Probably around 20hp
It starts of a bit slow, then when it hits around 5000rpm it goes off... It makes a mad as whistle noise, kinda like a turbo. but not!
Maybe finding a good place to put a pod will create a bit of power, an exhaust definetly does a good job. Probably around 20hp
affen
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, AZ
there is a thread about plug and play megasquirts that are going on sale soon in the megasquirt section, but those are the only plug and play ones im aware of. You usually have to order a kit and build it, then wire it up.
Play Well
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,218
Likes: 0
From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
Someone on the forums has been doing this for people. You send him your ECU and uses the stuff off of it to make it work, or something along those lines. Cant remember his name though. Once i get through break in (if i ever did stupid kids messing with my stuff), and after testing all these lol mods. Im going NA turbo and will probably contact him and do it this way.
affen
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 913
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, AZ
You should get in on the megasquirt plug and play group buy that is going to happen soon 
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...90#post5490790
Tofuball is the guy to talk to if you have any questions
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...90#post5490790Tofuball is the guy to talk to if you have any questions
Jesus is the Messiah
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,848
Likes: 0
From: Silver Spring, MD
First step, do a full tuneup. That includes sparkplugs.
Second step, get a _good_ exhaust. Check the forum for reccomendations. (Did you know you can mod your Auto tranny to shift faster and harder? It involves increasing the pressure)
Third step, change the 3.9 gears on your car to 4.3! It makes the car COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. Don't waste your money on a "cone." Seriously. And $200+ is a LOT of money.
Fourth step. Get a good EMS. Everyone knows what I'm going to reccomend.
The stock maps are garbage, especially after you start modding the car.
When you replace the EMS, you can throw away almost all the stock sensors, solinoids, and vac lines. My car seriously has four vac lines on it.
Fifth step. Pinapple racing sleaves for your aux ports. Those things are GREAT.
Sixth step. Enjoy the car. If it is too slow, you've reached the point of deminishing returns, where mods either affect drivability, comfort, a large amount of personal time, or your wallet. The above are the major mods that I can think of off the top of my head. Smaller mods would include things like the TB mod, CraneCams Hi-6 on your leading coils, stuff like that.
Also, your engine has traveled a lot of miles, if the compression is getting low, you might want to consider a rebiuld. This is your chance to have it streetported.
Honestly, I own a modded TII and a modded Convertable N/A (among other RX-7s) and I like driving the N/A a whole lot more. It's all in your personal taste, and budget.
Yeh, you do loose power with the hot air intake. Your intake temps SKYROCKET without that stock snorkel, or a good CAI. Just check the readings of either intake air sensor (theres one on the intake manifold, and one inside the AFM. I belive the stock ECU uses the two to calculate heat soak. Kinda cool, eh?).
If you don't belive it, just compare. One thing I should point out, is that 20 degrees of intake tempreture has a pretty large effect, especially since the AFR and the timing has to be adjusted to suit. (AFR is leaned out, timing is backed off)
My observations have revealed the stock airbox to be superior to the "pod" or "cone" that sucks in radiator backwash, because the radiator backwash increases the intake tempreture by up to SIXTY DEGREES.
Those who said the AFM is the huge restriction, you're right!
Anyone with a vac gauge could tell you that
The RX-7 world is a small one
Second step, get a _good_ exhaust. Check the forum for reccomendations. (Did you know you can mod your Auto tranny to shift faster and harder? It involves increasing the pressure)
Third step, change the 3.9 gears on your car to 4.3! It makes the car COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. Don't waste your money on a "cone." Seriously. And $200+ is a LOT of money.
Fourth step. Get a good EMS. Everyone knows what I'm going to reccomend.
The stock maps are garbage, especially after you start modding the car.When you replace the EMS, you can throw away almost all the stock sensors, solinoids, and vac lines. My car seriously has four vac lines on it.
Fifth step. Pinapple racing sleaves for your aux ports. Those things are GREAT.
Sixth step. Enjoy the car. If it is too slow, you've reached the point of deminishing returns, where mods either affect drivability, comfort, a large amount of personal time, or your wallet. The above are the major mods that I can think of off the top of my head. Smaller mods would include things like the TB mod, CraneCams Hi-6 on your leading coils, stuff like that.
Also, your engine has traveled a lot of miles, if the compression is getting low, you might want to consider a rebiuld. This is your chance to have it streetported.
Honestly, I own a modded TII and a modded Convertable N/A (among other RX-7s) and I like driving the N/A a whole lot more. It's all in your personal taste, and budget.
Originally Posted by classicauto
no no...you said that putting on just an intake that isn't true cold air would cause you to LOSE power when compared to the stock setup......no way
the stock setup has more bends the a room full of crappy scuba divers....runing nearly anything else vs. the stock air box will make the motor breathe better.
Your point about cold air is obviously true, duh, science.....but in this case its the retrictiveness that is more of a factor.
However this whole discussion is pointless anyways - the stock intake doesn't restrict so much so that it is holding back any worthwhile amount of power anyways....(3-4hp tops)....which is not even enough to measure with a butt dyno
the stock setup has more bends the a room full of crappy scuba divers....runing nearly anything else vs. the stock air box will make the motor breathe better.
Your point about cold air is obviously true, duh, science.....but in this case its the retrictiveness that is more of a factor.
However this whole discussion is pointless anyways - the stock intake doesn't restrict so much so that it is holding back any worthwhile amount of power anyways....(3-4hp tops)....which is not even enough to measure with a butt dyno
If you don't belive it, just compare. One thing I should point out, is that 20 degrees of intake tempreture has a pretty large effect, especially since the AFR and the timing has to be adjusted to suit. (AFR is leaned out, timing is backed off)
My observations have revealed the stock airbox to be superior to the "pod" or "cone" that sucks in radiator backwash, because the radiator backwash increases the intake tempreture by up to SIXTY DEGREES.
Those who said the AFM is the huge restriction, you're right!
Anyone with a vac gauge could tell you that
Originally Posted by fcdrifter13
thats kinda funny. Tofu is the guy i got my motor off of.
The RX-7 world is a small one
Jesus is the Messiah
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,848
Likes: 0
From: Silver Spring, MD
Originally Posted by stevenx788
is that because its a rotory? Because my friend put it on his 240 and he noticed about 20hp?!!
. . . .
Total waste of time, money, and effort
i just bought a two peice 3rd gen prelude(92-96) CAI off the internet and bought a 3.5-3.25 reducer and an extra coupler all for around 40 bucks all i need is time and a decent K&N filter for abour 40-50 bucks and im set
i also need to have two bungs installed on the upper part of the intake tube so i can hook up those two hoses that plug into the tube right before the TB, anyone know EXACTLY what those are for? all i know is that when i take them off my car wont hold an idle and will die
thanks!
i also need to have two bungs installed on the upper part of the intake tube so i can hook up those two hoses that plug into the tube right before the TB, anyone know EXACTLY what those are for? all i know is that when i take them off my car wont hold an idle and will die
thanks!
Jesus is the Messiah
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,848
Likes: 0
From: Silver Spring, MD
Cuz you're creating a huge vac leak if you remove them.
One goes to the AWS, one goes to the BAC, if I recall correctly.
If you remove them, just cap off the other end. I personally have found the BAC to be very useful, however.
It spins up your idle when the engine is under heavy loads, such as AC, Defroster (I donno if it does this for the RX-7), and PS.
I use my BAC on my MegaSquirted 'vert to handle closed loop idle control, for the same BASIC effect.
One goes to the AWS, one goes to the BAC, if I recall correctly.
If you remove them, just cap off the other end. I personally have found the BAC to be very useful, however.
It spins up your idle when the engine is under heavy loads, such as AC, Defroster (I donno if it does this for the RX-7), and PS.
I use my BAC on my MegaSquirted 'vert to handle closed loop idle control, for the same BASIC effect.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
From: willis, VA
Originally Posted by Tofuball
Third step, change the 3.9 gears on your car to 4.3! It makes the car COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. Don't waste your money on a "cone." Seriously. And $200+ is a LOT of money.
