MOLDABLE EPOXY...for side Housing?
07-09-03, 08:45 PM
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MOLDABLE EPOXY...for side Housing?
guys if any of you have watched the atkins rotary overhaul video you can see that bruce tereince says something about teh s4's water jackets wher eteh coolant and water goes by are very fragile and break within a period of time..i was thinking if any of you guys have used a specific kind of epoxy to reinforce this fragile walls from braking and causing overheating problems and white smoke..
07-09-03, 08:50 PM
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Personally, I would never use any epoxy in the intake track of an engine. It can fall out. Several people who have used epoxy to shape their intakes and intake ports have had this happen. In this case, I think it is very poor advice from Bruce.
Besides, if you remove the 5th and 6th port actuators on the NA engine, you will loose low end torque, gain a slightly lumpy idle, and it may effect your ability to pass emissions.
Besides, if you remove the 5th and 6th port actuators on the NA engine, you will loose low end torque, gain a slightly lumpy idle, and it may effect your ability to pass emissions.
07-09-03, 10:45 PM
#6
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Not clear enough on the area you are pointing. Best advice is to change the side housing. If it was the case that your side housings are the type that have the wedge for the seals instead having them on the rotor housings something could be done.
07-09-03, 10:48 PM
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1980 Full Metal Drag RX-7
8:37 @ 159 MPH first run
Weight 2,276 lbs
Methanol/Turbo
Haltech F9-8
Still Testing
8:27 Best time so far...
8:37 @ 159 MPH first run
Weight 2,276 lbs
Methanol/Turbo
Haltech F9-8
Still Testing
8:27 Best time so far...
uhh.......... OH GOD!!!! THAT'S INSANE!!!
Trending Topics
07-10-03, 12:46 AM
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Will be at englishtown NJ for the Pan-Americans July 19-20th...
Back to the topic... Got a better picture?
Back to the topic... Got a better picture?
Last edited by Angel Guard Racing Team; 07-10-03 at 12:50 AM.
07-10-03, 01:06 AM
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
Can't tell untill he posts a better pic. But welding material is not the answer, sometimes it can be fixed by actually welding and grinding, but I have only seen it on corroded wedges where the orange (inner) seal goes. I have it fixed that way and have had no problems at all not to mention my engine is Hi-compression/Turbo/carb.
07-10-03, 12:02 PM
#14
I have seen the video, and Bruce talks about epoxy in TWO ocassions. One is for the modified track\path ofe the 5&6 ports, and the other is just a *COMMENT* on using epoxy if the diameter of the lip located between the coolant passages and the water seal track. If that lip is under a specific width, he mentions epoxy in order to make it *thicker*.
I have never seen this, and he doesn't show how to either!!
The lip that I am talking about is the one that brakes off when corrosion occurs.
I have never seen this, and he doesn't show how to either!!
The lip that I am talking about is the one that brakes off when corrosion occurs.
Last edited by KNONFS; 07-10-03 at 12:05 PM.
07-11-03, 12:19 PM
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yes thats the picture i need. thanx man. well that metal lien thats cracked.. mine i snot cracked but is about half as think.. it looks so thin
07-11-03, 12:51 PM
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Not only do they sometimes break, but corrosion is a major player in them breaking. My sole failed rebuild was due to inattention payed to the condition of the walls on the rear plate. Corrosion had eaten thru much of it and after the rebuild running for about a year, it collapsed. Collapsed wall led to exaust gas entering the water system and complete dumping of the water overboard thru the overfill tank. And I might add.....fifty miles from home at 1am. Not a pretty sight. Lots of foul language.
OH. Don't do it. Do not epoxy it. Nope. Nay, nay. Nein, nyet, verboten, whatever, don't do it. Just my opinion. Others might think different.
OH. Don't do it. Do not epoxy it. Nope. Nay, nay. Nein, nyet, verboten, whatever, don't do it. Just my opinion. Others might think different.
07-11-03, 02:00 PM
#21
Originally posted by HAILERS
Not only do they sometimes break, but corrosion is a major player in them breaking. My sole failed rebuild was due to inattention payed to the condition of the walls on the rear plate. Corrosion had eaten thru much of it and after the rebuild running for about a year, it collapsed. Collapsed wall led to exaust gas entering the water system and complete dumping of the water overboard thru the overfill tank. And I might add.....fifty miles from home at 1am. Not a pretty sight. Lots of foul language.
OH. Don't do it. Do not epoxy it. Nope. Nay, nay. Nein, nyet, verboten, whatever, don't do it. Just my opinion. Others might think different.
Not only do they sometimes break, but corrosion is a major player in them breaking. My sole failed rebuild was due to inattention payed to the condition of the walls on the rear plate. Corrosion had eaten thru much of it and after the rebuild running for about a year, it collapsed. Collapsed wall led to exaust gas entering the water system and complete dumping of the water overboard thru the overfill tank. And I might add.....fifty miles from home at 1am. Not a pretty sight. Lots of foul language.
OH. Don't do it. Do not epoxy it. Nope. Nay, nay. Nein, nyet, verboten, whatever, don't do it. Just my opinion. Others might think different.
I don't think his is corroded, but thinner due to wear(?). I really don't know how it will get *thiner*, but from watching the video it seems like they do wear out.
If its corrosion, I agree with Hailer, throw it out...NO QUESTIONS ASKS!!! Then again, I don't know anybody who have used epoxy to make that lip thicker, except for Bruce who mentions the epoxy thing...
07-11-03, 02:54 PM
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ITS thinner due to wear no corrosion whatsoever..what Im afraid of is taht if it has wore off and it seems to have wore off about 70% and thats for about 17 years.. so it eats up maybe 10 percent per 2 or 3 years>??