At the moment i have a catback corksport exhaust and i want to get the racing beat downpipe and presilencer. Will a fuel pump and porting the wastegate be sufficient enough to support the full exhaust?

 

A real boost gauge. Possibly an rtek and some larger secondaries. Right now i dont have any thing but the exhaust installed and i watch the stock boost gauge and moderate the pedal to control boost. If you want easy driving do mods you mentioned and the ones i mentioned and you will be happy

 

a better boost gauge is def a good idea

 

A wideband wouldnt hurt either to monitor A/F ratios

 

Shouldn't need anything to run a full exhaust besides the exhaust itself.

 

A ported wastegate is necessary to prevent boost creep. Everything else is secondary.

 

I second the boost gauge.

 

Wow seriously??

You cant just slap an exhaust on these cars like on a piston engine car and just go with it?

Thats whack man..

What about an N/A car

 

Yes, to run it you won't need anything but the exhaust (+ maybe gaskets) but if you want to do it proper (read - do it ******* proper!) then you should get bigger injectors, port the WG, boost gauge, AFR gauge, + some way to control the fuel. Maybe a cheap SAFC or similar, or go full stand alone.

 

It has nothing to do with it being a rotary. If you "slap" a hollow exhaust on a turbo piston engine that uses an internal wastegate, you'll probably get boost creep too.

NA cars don't have turbos. No boost = no boost creep.

 

I am aware N/A = no turbo..Ive justn ever heard of an exhaust causing boost creep...

And I DO vaguely remember someone saying if you swap exhausts on a rotary you must be careful of Exhaust temps or something...

 

The full exhaust allows the turbo to flow more freely and the stock wastegate is too restrictive to not cause over boosting. Ported wastegate, new boost gauge, and fuel cut defender i think is the bare minimum for a full catless exhaust.

 

hmm a lot of different opinions are being thrown around..

i dont want to do the bare minimum i want to ensure ill be safe..

 

I like the way he thinks. It took me a little while to fully understand the program but i'm so happy i went standalone.

 

id love to go standalone...just not in my budget

 

As stated on Racing Beats website:
''....With rotary engines the exhaust gas temperature is very high - approximately 1,700° -2,000°F at full throttle and high RPM for a 1971-95 peripheral exhaust port engine or about 1600°F for a Renesis (RX-8) side exhaust port engine, as compared to 1,100°-1,400°F for a four-stroke reciprocating engine...."

full article here http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm >tech tips >exhaust systems


Do it right =]

 

What you will need:
- Fuel Cut Defenser (or an aftermarket fuel computer with this function)
- Aftermarket Boost Gauge (the stock gauge will not work properly with the FCD)

The aftermarket fuel pump is a good idea. You may not need the wastegate ported since the S5 wastegate is less prone to creep than the S4 wastegate, so you may want to wait and see if that is a problem before you put forth the effort for that mod.

Yes, you can just slap an exhaust on an NA rotary just like you can with an NA piston engine. The only real issue is whether the aftermarket exhaust will work with the S4's 6-port system.

That's because you are a noob.

The rotary engine exhaust is very hot, powerful, and loud. Therefore exhaust components need to be built better to withstand the beating.

 

thanks Evil

 

Completely off of what is being discussed now, but for under $100 and a few hours of your time, wrapping the exhaust isn't a bad idea. I wrapped mine earlier today using Thermo Tec Copper Exhaust Wrap w/Thermo Tec Spray adhesive. I completely recommend this. I wrapped it from the downpipe to just in front of the muffler. I am running a corksport 3" Turboback Ti. Seems like it was slightly cooler under the hood, it was cooler inside the car, the tone seemed a little deeper, and it also helped with sound inside the car. Not too much on the last point, but enough to notice.

 

cool i was thinking about wrapping it actually

 

I am not a big fan of header wrap. See article below:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/ex...e-spg-138.html

 

doesnt heat wraps contain the heat??

 

Good article. I had the DP on my STi wrapped for over a year, and never had an issue like they talk about in the article. I believe that is more for race applications. Besides, I didn't wrap the exhaust manifold or the turbo. I started behind the O2 sensor on the DP and back. I'm not worried about it.

 

I used some wrap and my headed ended up rusting. I had a pile of rust the size of a rotor!

 

What about injectors? Are bigger ones only needed if a stronger turbo is installed?