*a*jones*

i put a voltameter in place of the meter fuse and it's reading a high 11 volts, whats this mean? is it a short in the system somewhere?

NZConvertible

There should be a least 12V at any fuse...

*a*jones*

maybe it's amps then... i did as said on a faq somewhere. i set the meter on 20 amps and measured and it came up 11 close to 12. and isn't it suppose to be no more than 10?

NZConvertible

I have no idea what you're doing, but it makes no sense.

RXSevenSymphonies

iTrader: (2)

Hes sayin the meter fuse connection is reading high 11 amps I guess.. and its only a 10A fuse..

NZConvertible

How exactly was this current measured?

*a*jones*

plugging a multimeter in place of where the blown fuse was and reading the amps. sorry for the confusing description. i just need help to figure out why it's reading higher than the fuse rated for that slot is

NZConvertible

The 10A METER fuse powers the reverse lights, cruise control, gauges, warning light cluster, clock, and electric fan controller (not the fan itself). The reverse lights (which I presume were not on when testing) draw 4-5A, but the rest draw tiny amounts or power so you'd be lucky to measure a couple of amps normally. Has anything else been connected to that fuse or to the power wire of any of those things?

*a*jones*

where is the electric fan controller at? i unplugged all that other junk and tried and the fuse still blew.

DerangedHermit

Probably not a good idea, but one of my fuses kept blowing (windshield wipers) on my Mercury so I just put a 20A in there as opposed to a 5A or 10A, forget which, that was stock. Works better, doesn't blow quite as much. I 'spose I should find the problem, but that's too much work

Or you could put a loaded .22 bullet in there and let it go off into your nuts... Oh Darwin Awards...

NZConvertible

Not a controller as such, just a relay. It's mounted with the others in front of the radiator. See the picture on page E-13 of the FSM for the location.

You have a short somewhere.

WAYNE88N/A

If you have a good battery and a direct short to ground, you should read A LOT more than 11 Amps. What kind of meter are you using? Most meters I know of measure in the milli-amp range, with maybe a seperate meter lead connection for higher currents (say, up to 10 amps). Make sure you're not reading milliamps (mA) on the meter. If you are in fact pushing 11 amps across that 10 amp fuse, you've either installed more components on the circuit than it was designed to handle, or you have a component going bad and drawing more amps than it should

*a*jones*

i know last time i tried it lasted for a while i probably drove 5 miles or so and it just blew. i was cruising when it blew, i thought it might have been my AF gauge shorting it out somehow so i disconnected it and it still went. all these problems started after i regrounded my ECU. i thought maybe i did that wrong, but upon undoing my wiring it was still blowing.

WAYNE88N/A

how soon after you put in the A/F gage did it start? If you used a wire you THOUGHT was a ground for the gage and the wire receives power sometime later while you're driving along, that could cause your problems...If you got the right ground pins on the ECU, I don't see how that would cause it...

*a*jones*

i'm pretty sure it's not the AF gauge because it was there quite some time before this problem started. i just disconnected it as a 'what if' thing. however when i regrounded the ecu, it started right after that.

WAYNE88N/A

you grounded a wrong wire then...recheck with the FSM wiring manual for your car...

*a*jones*

i'll make sure to disconnect it and try again