Alright what are these exactly? One of them doesn't have a hose or anything on it and I wouldn't have a clue where it needs to be connected to. Any help would be great. This removing the intake manifold and putting it all back together is turning out to be alot harder than it should be.

 

hrmmm
lemme see

 

Soiunds like the vacuum rack. Most of them have one or two fittings that have a cap on them.

 

Hmm..so they just need to be capped off? Theres one that has a hose going to something else, think its another metal tube.

 

Do you have a Hayes manual?If so it should have diagram and sketch of the vacuum system.You should be able figure out what it is from that.

 

I have the vacuum diagram but it shows things "distant." Can't tell where exactly things go. And I don't see any of the metal tubes I am talking about on there.

 

This one any better? I had to make the quality real low to attach it.

 

Ya thats the one I have. It helps some but I'm still a little stuck.

After further inspection, under the primary rail there are 2 hoses which appear that they were clear or something when new. Now they are kind of the color of oil. They go down towards the front, meet up with like 2 or 3 more and go down like under the air pump. What would these be? I have had a good sized oil leak and these appear they could be the cause if they do run oil through them. Thanks.

 

Those are the metering pump lines. Try not to jiggle them alot, they get brittle and are really easy to break.

 

Ok, well they are just open, don't have any tubes or caps or anything. How are they supposed to go? They don't look like they went together.

 

They are supposed to have little rubber 90* pieces on the ends that connect to the oil injectors.

 

So what exactly do the oil injectors look like?

 

Look on each rotor hosing. They are round and have a small vacuum type fitting on top of them. The other two are on the lower intake I do believe.

 

So how many oil injectors are there? If this has been my oil leak for a while then what negative effects could this have? I mean not enough oil getting injected would have to do some damage right? Thanks for the help.

 

4 total.

I dunno about the negative effects, the metering system really isn't all that effective in the first place.

 

Alright I'm just hoping I can figure out how things go.

 

ummmm, the oil metering pump can be the end of an engine if it isnt running right, unless you use 2 stroke.

make absolutely sure the lines are all in order

 

With the way he says they don't have ends on them, that worries me.

At one end of an oil injector line (the black coated end), it attaches to the OMP. All 4 should come together in one place. At the other end (the clear non-coated end), It should end in an O-ring that goes around the oil injector.

If the end just goes to noting, that means the hoses snapped off of the injector rings, and are shooting oil into nothing.

Take a look and see what they look like. There are 4 oil injectors. 2 are on the rotor housings themselves, just in front of the primaries. The other 2 are on the LIM, in the middle. They are little bolts looking things with a vacuum nipple on the top. The vacuum nipple should be connected to the vacuum line spider that all comes together near the rear of the LIM.

Once you indentifiy the injectors, look at the rings around them. If they are on there and the oil lines are not connected, it means you broke em. You can order new ones from mazdatrix. Part #'s 14-690A-N318, 14-670B-N318, 14-680B-N318, 14-660B-N318.

Can't be too sure w/o pics though.

 

Alright I am 90% sure I am talking about the oil lines. Because there are 4 that meet together and towards the front and 2 of them that are I am assuming, cut. I guess this is a good thing to find out so I can fix my oil leak. I guess I'm going to have to take the primary rail back off and see what I need to do. Thanks for all the help.

 

I looked on Mazdatrix's website and they are like $20 a piece. I guess $80 isn't too bad for piece of mind. Prolly save that in oil that I was losing.

 

Alright, heres the question. Should I remove the OMP and just run premix which would allow me to finish my car without ordering more stuff, save me some money, and possibly improve the way oil is put into the engine(I guess from how bad I hear the OMP works). Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.

 

You do have the mechanical omp, but I'd still say its not worth it. I'd say just order the parts. Its safer incase you ever forget to mix oil in when you are running premix.

Its kinda a lot of work too. You are going to have to find bolts to fill the injector holes, you are going to have to make a block off plate to cover the omp, and you are going to have to block off the vacuum lines. Probably going to take you just as long as waiting for the oil lines.

You can go to the local dealer and order them too. Just give them the part numbers. They can probably have them to you quicker than ordering from mazdatrix, unless you like overnight them.

 

Alright I'm going to stick with the OMP then. Thanks.