kool-aid

I used the typical check 2I for voltage and then brown/white wire on boost sensor. Found it to only be .04 volts on both. So throw in a different ecu and 5 volts on both. I thought maybe grounds so I spliced into 3g, 2r, 3a and grounded them at the ecu mounting bracket. They still go to the motor so I don't know if that ground is bad or not. The reason I spliced was because I was getting .5 ohms on 2r and 3a. Should I only ground these wires to the ecu mounting frame or should they be grounded both places, engine and frame. Again unsure if grounds to motor is ok. From my test thats a no. But do they have to be grounded to the motor or just grounded period?

Also, the only lights on the dummy cluster that come on are washer fluid and park brake. No door ajar or anything. Motor spins, but I'm dead sure theres no spark or fuel. All fuses are good. And the tach doesn't move at all. Should I check all the things that 2I supply or is it in the dash wiring. I also have to sometimes double turn the key like theres a short just to get the motor to spin. Clutch switch maybe? The only thing not plugged in is my BAC. The plug is screwed and I have to solder on a new one. Will that being unplugged give me my no spark no fuel or is the car not noticing that there is an ecu.

The reason this is written so wierd is I'm hoping HAILERS will find this and save me.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Well, the bac will not change the fuel or spark at all. The BAC Valve gets engaged when you turen on your lights, AC, ect. Then, it opens up and lets more air into the system to raise the idle. So, the purpose it serves is to keep the idle stable under a load.

To test your fuel pump, there is a little yellow plug under the passengers side strut. If you bridge that, the fuel pump will run. The fuel pump does not run until the engine starts to turn over, so bridging this allows you to see if it works. You will hear it flow.

Have you changed your fuel filter recently?

To test for spark, pull the plugs one at a time on the leading coil and have someone turn it over. Hold the plug close to the coil so it can bridge a spark. If it does not, you have a problem.

hope that helps a bit.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Oh, sometimes I have to push the clutch in twice to get it to turn over.

Icemark

Title edited to remove name. It is against forum rules to have forum members names in titles. If you want someones attention, then PM them

kool-aid

I'm sorry I meant no disrespect

kool-aid

OK I jumped the wire to try to make the feul pump kick on, all I got was a click sound, that sounded like it was coming from the driver side maybe inside in the dash, every time I jumped the plug. I checked the coil pack near the battery and has 12.59 volts. I checked the cas and it ohm'd out fine. I checked the afm and it seemed just fine. I took off the upper intake manifold and found my ground under the intercooler bracket. It looks fine but I'm going to clean it and add another wire to them. I still don't understand the dummy light problem. Its gotta be a short. Because after working under the hood there's now a buzzing sound with the key in the on position. The door ajar light came on but then I manually pushed the button on the door jam and it won't come back on? I looked inside my old ecu and it looked like two things got fried and if I follow the plug to the burnt thing on the board and it looks like they go to those two ground wires that splice together before they hit the engine block. I tried taking pics but digital camera sucks at focusing.

More later

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Good luck there!

You have a second CPU?

HAILERS

When you saw there was no 4-5vdc on the brown/white wire that more or less proved the ECU was toast. When you put another ECU in and now you have 4-5vdc, that again proves that the OLD ECU was toast.

If you pulled the plugs off the ECU and checked for the gnd with a meter, and you got 0.5 ohms, that is just fine and dandy. You could splice another gnd wire to them BUT don't cut them. The gnd to the motor is good and adding another gnd usually never hurts anything.

When you jumper the fuel pump check connector and hear a click, it is from the Circuit Opening Relay under the dash and above the steeing column. Question: with it jumpered and the key to ON, did you hear fuel passing thru the fuel rails? Should have. Or open the gas tank cap and listen for the fuel flowing back to the tank. Should be heard IF the key is ON and the jumper installed in the fuel pump check connector (yellow, two socket near the right front strut tower.

You should have spark. If you look at the LEAD coil assy, and the small, white, two socket plug, there should be 12vdc on the black/yellow wire IF the key is to ON. Do NOT ever mess with the other wire in that connector.

Since you have 5vdc on the brown/white wire, and 12vdc on the LEAD coil assys black/yellow wire, I suggest you try something with the CAS.

Remove the CAS. but leave its elect connector connected.

Lay both LEAD sparkplug wires near the left strut tower studs.

Key to ON.

Spin the bottom gear on the CAS fairly rapidly. The sparkplugs should arc to the fender.

I recommend this method because: the starter is NOT turning and dragging the voltage of the battery down and possibly causing the sparkplugs arc to be anemic. My way should give you a good spark.

Reinstall of the CAS should not be a big deal. Remove the thin black cover off the top of the CAS. Aligh the front pulley LEAD mark with the fixed pointer on the front cover.

Align the marks on the bottom of the CAS then look in the top of the CAS. See the two pointers on the top of the shaft?? And the 24 teeth just below them. Well, with the CAS bottom marks aligned, you will notice that when you look in the top, one of the teeth will be cutting the edge of one of the two black coils (reluctors). Keep that in mind.

Install the CAS. Now the front pulley should still be aligned. So look in the top of the CAS and make sure the pointer is still cutting across the edge of the coil you looked at before installation. If it isn't, and probably won't, then turn the body of the cas til it does align. When thru you'll be within 5 degrees of what the timing should be. Gotta go.

kool-aid

I will try the pull cas and spin method this weekend. I defiately know I have NO fuel pressure. I pulled the hose off and it was bone dry. The hose from the filter goes to the front, relative to the car, most fuel line correct? What is causing the dummy light problem where only two of like 12 come on? Maybe I just have the one TII with all of the problems that plague a TII. And unfortunately I did cut and splice the ecu grounds. I'll also fix that.

kool-aid

I have spark but I definately now have no fuel. I'm going to rewire the pump and throw in a 255 whike I'm at it. Now the relay for that rewire, is it common?