okay. so i directly wired the pump to the battery w/ a switch. and this is actually pumping fuel. now the problem is, its a bitch to start. why, im not sure. i have to have the pump off, crank it until it quasi starts, then turn the pump on and give it gas. then it starts. wont idle either. i have to hold the gas at 1000 or higher.

i have a TB mod, removed emissions (no BAC). so how can i adjust my idle then? that and any ideas as to why the car is so picky on the hard to start problem?

 

Same setup as mine. Adjust the fast idle screw. It is the firewall side of TB and opens the flaper doors more. This will keep it runing and idle. It is not uncomon to flutter the pedle to keep it runing for the first 45sec or so. Letting it idle I have once encounterd superior flooding leading in stalling engin after 5 min or so of idle at 900rpm or so.

How clean are your injectors? the fact that you have to turn it off and crank it seems a issue with injectors or FPR. Are all these in good working order?

Does the car flood if you leave the pump on when cranking?

 

flood like mad when i leave the pump on.

 

Sounds like a injector/fpr problem.

Check that timing is good.

I see you have injectors. Did you up your primarys?

You have a emange as well. Who tuned it or what type of map are you using.
It looks like a fule delivery prob. So look at what delivers it. injectors/Emange/fpr

 

the primaries are on a stock map. also, they are stock 550cc injectors. it might be FPR related though because i hear lots of sounds coming from it.

 

Sounds like you got a good place to start looking.

 

i mean i can hear it in the car loud! like fuel gushing fast and hard through it. and it happened all of a sudden like. its sticking or just broke or something. have to check it out more. kinda wonder how much a FPR is from the dealer...

 

No it should not be doing that. You can get a top of line FPR aftermarket for 120$ the braided lines to do it made for 25 to 35$ and get some fitings at home depot in the plumbing section to convert the In and return lines to a hose with clamp. unless you can aford to run braided the entire way.

 

not a bad idea. good thing summit racing is only 20 minutes away from me!

 

order an aeromotive regulator! and have a sending unit on the way. it runs now but has to be kept above 1100rpms or it dies. and its running rich as hell. FPR was / is all kinds of mess up.

now here there is the brakes. im trying to bleed the system but the air kepts coming. we put in 32oz of fluid and two hours of bleeding, but still, air. there are no leaks in the lines. the master cyclinder has a leak on it though. enough to make the front of the booster wet. is that enough to cause air to get into the rear brake system?

 

If you have a leak, then yeah, on the piston's return stroke it could be sucking in some air...

Don't you have a T2? Shouldn't you have the resistor block reducing the voltage to the pump at idle? Could that be why you're having starting issues?

 

i can hear a loud **whoosing** noise at the FPR. like inside the car can still hear it loud. and this was a recent development. before it wouldnt make any sound. also, the car didnt start. then it when pop! one day and starting making that noise. and now the car half *** starts.