ROTARYROCKET7

Hey guys,

Imworking on my 7, the pulsation damper went on it after a few hours of spirited driving. So i decided to do some work while i am in there. I am replacing all the OMP lines, and my vacuum lines for the oil nozzles are dead. So i want to get my car up and running by this sunday for my car meet.

Will regular vac lines form AZ suffice. I am stubborn and prefer to get all mazda stuff when i get things, even if there a tad more expensive (but since i found ray crowe, life has been cheaper lol)

Here is a lil bit about what i did today to my car. (Copied from NYrotary forums)

So i finally got a chance to work on my car today. Only had 2 hours to work on her, had to take off the air filter assembly and the air pump to that way i can get better access to the OMP.

I did manage to put 3 out of the 4 Oil Metering pump lines in. Also i have to get new vacuum lines since the ones on their now are fucked as hell. Couldnt put the last one cuz i cant find my 10mm wrench. I also tried a swivel head but its too close to the lower radiator hose, to the metal portion not on the hose, so tomorrow i will get that.

I also put all new fuel lines (5/16in), the one going to the primary fuel rail, secondary fuel rail and the return hose from teh Fuel Pressure regulator, and all new clamps, eff those old school jump offs.

Here are some pictures.

Old OMP lines.



Top View , OMP lines & Vac Lines


New and Old OMP line comparison


3 outta 4 new OMP lines




New Fuel lines compared to old crappy ones









Thanks for the help =)

Jason NYC

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i use the napa brand vaccume lines and have had no trouble what so ever with them. i'm pretty good at making sure the parts i get are good quality as i love my 10AE and want to make sure i do the job correctly. to answer your question, i'd probably use the autozone vaccume lines. if you have a napa near you, i reccomend theirs only because i have used them and they work great! not saying anything bad or negative about autozone's vaccume line, its just that i've never tried it.

ROTARYROCKET7

yeah totally understand where your coming from, i love my car and love to get the good stuff, only the best for my lil nancy.

I do have a small napa place by my house ill check em out, i just remembered i got a boy that got connections tehre lol. Just need a few feet to do the oil nozzles, but if im there might as well get for the rest of the car.

I think 3.5 and 6mm are what our cars use right:?

Thanks for your help!

Suiicidalpenguin

the vac lines at AZ are ok. I can't remember who makes em though (I work for AZ lol and use thier vac lines for everything in my Monte when I put a new engine in)

ROTARYROCKET7

^^ i use to work for them too, its been 3.5 years since i last worked there, and i only ran out of parts that i stole a month ago, so now i actually gotta buy my oil, oil filters and all the other lil things i got.

Ima go to both tomorrow and see wuz good, there not far apart

Im a bit worried putting my UIM back together, the diagrams in FSM and Haynes dont show exactly where everything goes, its hard to follow.

Jason NYC

Carzy Driver

might aswell change out all the old OEM vacuum lines while it's still torndown. napa has nice silicone vacuum line that's at a good price, just over $1/foot

melicha8

iTrader: (1)

lol why didn't you spring the extra 25 for the last omp line? Looks good though. I just did everything you are doing this last winter. It was a pain. I re did all my vacuum tubing and cleaned like crazy. Here's mine:

ROTARYROCKET7

^^ wow, thats looks AWESOME!!!

Man wish i had as much time to work on it, gotta get her ready for tomorrow, am holding a car meet and really want my car to be there. Plus i want to get my car ready for rotorfest which is only 2 weeks away and i got to put on my RB headers and silencer to go with my RB catback. Also have some wiring to do, so this gotta get done soon. I will make it BEAUTIFUL just like ours. Que sexy

http://nyrotary.com/Pages/nyraclubmeets.htm

Jason NYC

Longshoe

iTrader: (2)

All vac lines are of the same quality imo. I bought from Mazdatrix just because I happend to be purchasing a bunch of parts from them at the same time.

ROTARYROCKET7

UPdate

I have been working on my car since 9am sharp non stop until now 456pm. Here wat i have done so far.

Old Spider Vac for the Oil nozzles



Home made (not with the nice kinks but all new!)



All the OMP lines installed



Top view of oil nozzles and OMP lines



Top shot with vac lines & injectors



Old & New PD



All new installed



All new water hoses







Intake gasket is on then its time for UIM & Injectors, and connecting/bolting everything in.



Jason NYC

ROTARYROCKET7

Car wont start, any ideas. I looked at all the vac lines and there on, if there in the correct position is another thing. I used the pics i took before i took her apart and put it back the same way she was. If anyone has any ideas please let me know so i can look at it later

tHANKS

Jason NYC
NYRA president

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Make sure the fuel lines are on in the correct place. If you get them mixed around it wont start.

86gxl_fc

did you leave the AFM intact?
you might've knocked it outa place accidently.. which would keep it from starting. =)

ROTARYROCKET7

I checked this as well. The line coming out of the fuel filter going thru the hard line over the engine bay to the the primary fuel rail, the one at the back of the primary fuel rail going up to the secondary fuel rail and the return line going down thru the FPR back to the gas tank. They are all in the right location

=)

ROTARYROCKET7

I plugged and unplugged the AFM to make sure it was in properly and tried to start it with it on and off, and nothing.

Also tried the TPS, on and off and both ways still didnt start.

Theni looked at the ground in the back of the engine and it wasnt connected so i put it on, and it started but wont idle. Then i tried to start it back up and BOOM nothing.

So dunno what to do. I checked all the vac lines int he FSM/Haynes to make sure i got them all in the right places and it seems that i have. Dunno if its something else i overlooked something small.

Can the adjustment of the throttle cable make the car not idle? I tried pullling the cable taughter and loose and still doesnt start. At one point it did, when the cable was mad tight and it went up to 4k. But died back down.

Can someone takes pics of there s4 na, so i can compare the location of things

Much thanks

Jason NYC

WadeMCarter

how tight is your throttle cable right now?? does your car still start, and just not idle??

also, by now if you have been cranking on it, you might have flooded it.

ROTARYROCKET7

yeah i have unflooded it. I have everything wired up correctly. My FP is not on, so either the AFM switch for the FP is not working, or my FP conked out. I tested the AFM as directed in the FSM and everything comes out within spec.

If it is the AFM and lets say somehow it "tripped" the FP from not working how would you go about making it work?

If not then i just gotta change the FP which doesnt seem to be that hard of a job

Thanks

Jason NYC

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

You could jumper the yellow connector by the tps test connector.

Also, did you change the injector grommets?

ROTARYROCKET7

^^ yeah i got my injectors cleaned at KGparts, they put new orings and grommets on the top and bottom.

So if i use the jumper it will "reset" the FP. If that doesnt work then i guess its just the FP.

Jason NYC

RotaMan99

Not so fast...

No, the yellow test connector doesn't reset the fuel pump, it turns the fuel pump on to prime the fuel lines. The Injectors stay closed and the fuel just circulates through the lines.

Are you sure you have the primary and secondary injector electrical connectors on the right injectors?

Did you connect the ground wire from the tranny bell housing to the firewall?

ROTARYROCKET7

At first i didnt ground it correctly from the firewall to the engine, i forgot it, so could that have tripped the FP? LIke when i did my tranny swap i didnt ground the starter to the engine and it used my SS clutch line as a ground and lit my car on fire. Could not grounding it correctly cause any adverse efffects to the FP.

RotaMan99

No, the fuel pump is in the fuel tank at the back of the car and has its on power line and ground. To test the FP, jmp the yellow test connector near the AFM with the ignition in the ON position and you should hear the fuel pump relay click and fuel flowing through the lines.

Also, did you remove the TB and Spacer at all? If so make sure the spacer is not on backwards otherwise the engine will not idle.

Are the vacuum ports on teh large intake hose plugged or connected? Those caught me before.

ROTARYROCKET7

^^ hey thanks, i will def do that today when i get home. I also heard that there is a brown wire by the AFM that you can test to see if it has 12V. But i cant seem to find it lol.

I checked the AFM and it checked out to be okay, so i will do the jumper for the FP today, if that doesnt work then i guess my fp went? Good thing my boy james (spotskater) gave me his from the na he blew up last year.

Jason NYC

SpooledupRacing

not a vac leak is it?

ROTARYROCKET7

^^ NOPE, had some ppl over to double check my work and i must say pretty good for a first timer. The only thing i missed was the ground from the firewall to the bracket on the back of the engine.

Jason NYC