hello all,

I need a new engine for my 88 turbo.
Of course there are options. Its all about the money...

I can rebuild my own, get a rebuilt one or a new one, go all out, totally new, $5200 . I cant spend that much

I went to mazda today. They said 1936.00 for a reman.
The guy didnt know what the engine came with,
(new water pump or oil metering etc} he will get back with me in a few days.
Core charge is a hefty $ 1000

HAs anyone had experience with a mazda reman?
how would you rate them?

Does general consensus say they are good build quality,deal,etc?

I imagine they would be rebuilt to specs,and a good deal.

Im not going racing,or leaning heavy on it. so I dont need a modified ported race machine,etc.
I like stock. So its stock engine with normal driving.

any input is GREATLY APPRECIATED,
thanks all,
mack

 

some swear by them, others think they have sat for too long. I myself used to do the mazda reman motors (back in the day, a long long long time ago). at that time the training was great so the workmanship should be good. Personally, I preffer to do my own. for 1900, i can get new rotor housings, all seals and springs, plus a bunch of other stuff that the mazda reman does not come with. Also, if the motor does not need all of that stuff, i save a bundle. I have done them for as little as 300.00 in parts on a personal basis. Keep in mind, I have done about 1,000 rotaries in my life.

 

mr. gadget where do you get your goodies from? or is it top secret and i will die seconds after you tell me? =)

 

i got mine for cost when i worked at mazda $1580.00 and it has lasted 2 years and over 300 passes at the drag strip

 

Hey you know i am Itailan - if I tell ya I gotda . . . (this explains the comment in my signature)

Really, just searching, being nice and asking for a discount. sometimes the answer is yes. I picked up the rotor housings from a sponsor of the board for about 75 less than list. I use Rotary Aviation for kits if I need everything. Most of the time I can piece together what I need oring wise for a bunch less.

Keep in mind I do this for fun, don't ask if I will do your motors, I have a really well paying day job that has tons of travel overseas so I can never commit to much time wise. Besides I would want too much profit and there are better options cost and time wise right here (Rotary Resuraction for one). the only motors I rebuild now not for me are from my kids friends, and the deal is over the winter and I get three months due to travel. In return I do them with zero labor but them must pay parts and they will get parts replaced that are marginal as I inspect and measure everyting.

 

i can be your kid's friend :-p j/k i was just wondering cause knowing myself i will probably try to do my own rebuild. But thanks for the info.

 

You've done over 1000 rotaries!?!?!?!? OMG!

-Joe

 

have kevin from rotary resurection do yours for you...it would probably be cheaper.

 

I have one in my '89 TII. Installed Aug. 2002. Has about 11,000 miles and I run 10/11 lbs boost. The engine runs great, no problems, plus when installed 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty. If the engine your pulling apart has a lot of miles and needs 2 housing, there's about $900. It's been a while, but the reman comes with oil pan, naturally oil pump, flywheel, front cover, and water pump.

 

yes thats what I said above. I believe the only difference is mazda remans include new rotor housings, however, I heard this might not be 100% true.


1000 easy - we had do redo virtually every engine that first came over due to bad water seals (back in the 70's)

 

I put a Mazda reman into my 90 GXL about 2-years ago. The original engine lost a rear rotor seal at 212k miles. I now have about 28k miles on the "new" engine, and haven't had any problems with it so far. Actually, I believe the reman is a better, stronger engine than the original engine when it was new. I bought the reman from Ray Crowe, PM at Malloy Mazda (www.malloyautomall.com) in Woodbridge, VA, for around $1800. The reman had a 1-year unliminated mileage warranty. I was told that the Mazda remans come with at least one new rotor housing -- some have two new rotor housings -- and side houdings and whatever else is necessary to complete the rebuild. The engine that Malloy sold to me looked as if it had all new housings. The reman comes with a water pump and an oil pan, but no OMP. I pulled the oil pan and front cover off to inspect the engine before installation. The only thing that I didn't like was that Mazda used a lot of RTV when rebuilding the engine. I scraped off all the excess RTV crap which ouzed out between the housings. I also installed a thermo pellet bypass eliminator plug -- I suspect that a defective thermo pellet untimately caused the failure of my original engine.

I thought about rebuilding the blown engine, but after condsidering what I'd have to replace, it would cost ultimately cost much more to rebuild. Also, it would involve much of my time. I decided it wasn't woth it. I looked at Atkins and Pineapple Rotary for rebuilds, but their rebuilds would cost much more than Mazda since my engine would likely need new rotor housings. Also, there were shipping charges to/from the west coast (I live in Virginia).

Overall, I have no complaints about the Mazda reman. I would recommend, however, that if you get one, check it out very carefully before installing it into your car. Also, keep in mind that you're probably going to spend about another $500-$1000 on parts during the rebuild. For example, you'll need a gasket set, fuel injectors serviced, OMP lines, coolant, fuel and water hoses, belts, new fuel rails, and perhaps other repalcement parts which are only availble from Mazda.

Hot_Dog
90 RX7 GXL
02 Acura RSX-S

 

which every way you go inspect and renew the vac lines. Most are shot by now. the last two I did had holes in the lines operating the oil injectors.

 

I had a Mazda Remanufactured engine installed by a mazda dealer. The only thing I've noticed has been a low oil pressure reading (around 30psi on the dash) ever since the engine was installed. It now has around 60k miles on it with now problems (lots of highway miles). I suspect the oil pressure issue has to do with the seal between the front cover and the front rotor housing. Can anyone else confirm this?

 

30 psi at what RPM? Does it rise as RMP rises?

-Joe

 

It drops to almost zero at idle and stays at 30psi during normal driving. At full acceleration (6,000 rpm) it gets to maybe 35psi.

 

they inspect the housing if they are within specs they re use them if not they use new ones

 

30 psi at idle is normal, above 2K rpm you should read 60 psi

 

That is what it should be ... for sure! But, mine has been this way with no problems for 60k miles and I don't have any overheating issues either. It the problem is the seal between the front cover and the front housing, I will probably eventually have to fix it, but at this point we are getting away from the thread topic.

 

I would do it sooner, its worth the 4 hours of hassle

 

So, you would agree that the seal leaking is the most likely cause of the problem ... considering I'm not using any more oil than is expected?

 

might be your oil pressure sending unit...get mazda to check it for you at 0 pressure at idle you motor shoudl not have lasted as long as it has

 

http://mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

 

I Have had GREAT experience with (3) different Mazda reman engines in of course (3) different rx-7s all of them were turbo II . I currently have 3k on my latest rx7 with a Mazda Reman and it pures just like a song. I also believe it has alot to do with proper installation and not being a cheap skate when it come down to replacing hoses, PD damper, injector services, what ever is needed. but I would recommend them.

 

i have a reman in mine and it has been a very strong engine. i think reman is the best choice is you absolutley need reliability, have the extra money to spend (over a cheaper rebuild) and arent looking for the gains of porting.

 

I don't know how much I can add... only 1500 miles so far on my Mazda reman.

Interesting comment about them sitting too long, because mine had a date 2 years in the past when I received it! When I made inquiries then the answer was the same as now, "shouldn't be a problem"

I did the installation and as mentioned did not spare the expense on parts or time to check everything that was going back onto the engine! The list is long but all of the usual for sure, PD, any lines or hoses and injector servicing etc, etc.

I have also always read that rebuilds are weak and don't fire up right away. My expeience is to the contrary, it fired up in seconds, warmed up to a smooth clean idle at 750rpm, and from what I can tell (can't exceed 3500rpm just yet ) it make more power then the engine it replaced! And it had only 45,000 miles on it!