In the market for a ACT clutch
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,973
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From: Prince George, BC
In the market for a ACT clutch
I haven't decided which clutch and pp would be the best for my application.
I plan to run 225hp or so on stock turbo for part of the summer then i'll be upgrading to 300hp with a bnr hybrid stage 2. The car is a dd, and occasional drag racing at the track. I don't want anything to harsh. I also did some searching and I read that the xtreme pp is not recommended for our cars because they bust alot of parts on the car. So i'm pretty sure the xtreme is out. I'm thinking the best would be the heavy duty pressure plate but not sure about the disc. Being either a modified disc or performance disc.
To the people that have experienced the heavy duty pp with modified/performance disc, how was the comparison to stock? Shift faster? I know it says on the act site that it's faster but I need the people's experience.
http://www.advancedclutch.com/produc...d_id=2777#2777
I plan to run 225hp or so on stock turbo for part of the summer then i'll be upgrading to 300hp with a bnr hybrid stage 2. The car is a dd, and occasional drag racing at the track. I don't want anything to harsh. I also did some searching and I read that the xtreme pp is not recommended for our cars because they bust alot of parts on the car. So i'm pretty sure the xtreme is out. I'm thinking the best would be the heavy duty pressure plate but not sure about the disc. Being either a modified disc or performance disc.
To the people that have experienced the heavy duty pp with modified/performance disc, how was the comparison to stock? Shift faster? I know it says on the act site that it's faster but I need the people's experience.
http://www.advancedclutch.com/produc...d_id=2777#2777
im running the HD p/p with the modified street disk on about 300rwhp and have no problems. the pedal feel is stiffer than stock, but not bad at all, easily daily drivable. On my old engine I had the extreme p/p and it was alot stiffer, i would not recommend for daily driving
I used to have the extreme p/p with the 6 puck on a sprung hub, but it kept braking the pivot ball behind the fork. Changed to the HD p/p with the same friction and all is good and it still holds 350RWHP.
I'm using ACT 6 puck unsprung with the HD pressure plate. It is grabbing hard with my over 400hp car and is still good for the street as the pedal pressure is not bad. I had a comp clutches 4 puck with their pp before and it was a real chore to drive in comparison.
Josh
Josh
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,973
Likes: 0
From: Prince George, BC
im running the HD p/p with the modified street disk on about 300rwhp and have no problems. the pedal feel is stiffer than stock, but not bad at all, easily daily drivable. On my old engine I had the extreme p/p and it was alot stiffer, i would not recommend for daily driving
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The 6 pucks aren't bad as long as you have a stock or near stock weighted flywheel. If you combine the 6 puck with a light weight aluminum flywheel it is very hard to drive in the city. This is where I'm at. I have a Spec Clutch Stage 4 clutch setup. I'm going to swap the clutch disc out for their stage 1 disc. I dyno'd 279 rwhp and 263 ft-lbs of torque at 11 psi on stock S5TurboII engine with 200,000 miles. Sadly the motor blew shortly after at the track.
You can yes... But it's really grabby, and the wear on the PP, flywheel friction plate, and disc is very high. And good luck trying to parallel park the car anywhere.
If you are not putting out stupid huge torque numbers just go with the correct clutch disc.
If you are not putting out stupid huge torque numbers just go with the correct clutch disc.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,973
Likes: 0
From: Prince George, BC
The 6 pucks aren't bad as long as you have a stock or near stock weighted flywheel. If you combine the 6 puck with a light weight aluminum flywheel it is very hard to drive in the city. This is where I'm at. I have a Spec Clutch Stage 4 clutch setup. I'm going to swap the clutch disc out for their stage 1 disc. I dyno'd 279 rwhp and 263 ft-lbs of torque at 11 psi on stock S5TurboII engine with 200,000 miles. Sadly the motor blew shortly after at the track.
Even the heavy duty pp and modified disc has a reasonable high ceiling for torque. 380 to be exact, to get that in the rotary is quite tough.
Sorry I mean 170,000 miles (272k kms)
mods were:
Apexi AVCR
Apexi SAFC wired to pressure sensor
680cc secondaries
Paulstokes DIY FCD
Crane HI-6 (two boxes, feeding each to their own LX92 coil)
Crane LX92 (two coils, one for each leading plug)
Stock trailing coils
Stock TMIC
Racingbeat Turbo Back Exhaust
3" TID
No name cone filter
Spec Stage 4 clutch w/ sprung 6 puck flywheel
Fidanza 9.5lbs aluminum flywheel
Now you are really testing my memory. My car has been broken for the past 3 years as I chose to go mountain bike racing instead...
-Removed all Sound deadening in the car
-I turned my own Delrin mounts for the rear diff left and right mounts, rear subframe mounts
-Energy suspension poly kit
-ISC Racing Bilstein Coilovers, 400/250 spring rate
-FD calipers
-Goodrich lines
-Satisfied brakes GS3 race pads (about the same temp range as hawk blacks)
-New rear calipers
-I made my own rear camber link for adjusting the rear camber
-Ground control camber plates
-I had a rad panel water jet cut to make the air go through the rad
There are more... but I forgot what else I did to the car... I have no stereo in it anymore... just a custom gauge panel that incorparates the AVCR and 3 gauges. I bought the door panels from a 90 GXL with the blue leather and replaced my door panels because I don't have speakers anymore...
mods were:
Apexi AVCR
Apexi SAFC wired to pressure sensor
680cc secondaries
Paulstokes DIY FCD
Crane HI-6 (two boxes, feeding each to their own LX92 coil)
Crane LX92 (two coils, one for each leading plug)
Stock trailing coils
Stock TMIC
Racingbeat Turbo Back Exhaust
3" TID
No name cone filter
Spec Stage 4 clutch w/ sprung 6 puck flywheel
Fidanza 9.5lbs aluminum flywheel
Now you are really testing my memory. My car has been broken for the past 3 years as I chose to go mountain bike racing instead...
-Removed all Sound deadening in the car
-I turned my own Delrin mounts for the rear diff left and right mounts, rear subframe mounts
-Energy suspension poly kit
-ISC Racing Bilstein Coilovers, 400/250 spring rate
-FD calipers
-Goodrich lines
-Satisfied brakes GS3 race pads (about the same temp range as hawk blacks)
-New rear calipers
-I made my own rear camber link for adjusting the rear camber
-Ground control camber plates
-I had a rad panel water jet cut to make the air go through the rad
There are more... but I forgot what else I did to the car... I have no stereo in it anymore... just a custom gauge panel that incorparates the AVCR and 3 gauges. I bought the door panels from a 90 GXL with the blue leather and replaced my door panels because I don't have speakers anymore...
I ran the sprung 4 puck and the HD PP on my NA, and had to parallel park in New York City with it.
First couple of times, it's a chore, but once you start being able to slip it lightly and consistently, it's not so bad. You will, though, get a screeching sound from the engagement after awhile.
First couple of times, it's a chore, but once you start being able to slip it lightly and consistently, it's not so bad. You will, though, get a screeching sound from the engagement after awhile.
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