Making my own fuel rail
09-14-04, 10:19 AM
#1
Hot Dicken's Cider
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Marion, Ohio
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Making my own fuel rail
Ive been trying to get a K2RD secondary fuel rail for months, but nobody is selling thiers, K2RD is down, and nobody has any in stock. Im taking a machining class right now in college, and have acess to a full machine shop. I have a few extra fuel rails laying around that I can get measurements from if i need to, but I was wondering if anyone would have a technical drawing of one? I at least need to know the size and tolerances for the injector holes to fit Bosch 1600's. Im making this out of aluminum, what alloy would be best?
09-14-04, 12:29 PM
#2
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
If you can wait a bit, I'll be tearing my fuel system apart next week to put a pulsation damper on... I'll get you the bore and the injector seat dimensions and make a drawing for ya.
HOWEVER... I think you can get Marren 1000's that will fit directly into the stock fuel rail... check out their website, www.injector.com.
HOWEVER... I think you can get Marren 1000's that will fit directly into the stock fuel rail... check out their website, www.injector.com.
09-14-04, 12:38 PM
#3
Hot Dicken's Cider
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Marion, Ohio
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, the problem is I thought I would be able to get a K2RD fuel rail easily, so I got fuel components that would work with it. I have a aeromotive fuel reg, and 2 bosch 1600's, so I cant use a stock fuel rail because of the integrated reg, and the injector holes are to small. Ive heard the regulator on S4 T2 rails is threaded on because its a cast rail, so I might be able to use one of those and just bore out the injector holes, but im not sure if the "legs" are the same size as S5 rails.
09-14-04, 12:51 PM
#4
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
If you are going to use the 1600's, then you need a new rail.... it isn't worth the hassel.
BUT... you COULD, if you're really tight, hack off the FPR, have a fitting welded onto the end and then run your Aeromotive off that, and use the jap style marren injectors.
I have the Aeromotive FPR, I like it.. whish the vac nipple was on the other side like the SX, but, it works well.
However, I'm dumping my 1600's over the winter.... to friggin big.. I have them pretty much dialed in so that the transition is smooth, but without the Haltech.. it was a big slog when they turned on.....
I'm going with Marren 780's in the primaries and 1000's in the secondaries thats more than enough fuel for my needs (and almost every other TII!!!)
How the hell are you keeping that thing cool with a black magic and a front mount... my temps were retarded high with the FMIC and the black magic even with the Koyo Rad....
BUT... you COULD, if you're really tight, hack off the FPR, have a fitting welded onto the end and then run your Aeromotive off that, and use the jap style marren injectors.
I have the Aeromotive FPR, I like it.. whish the vac nipple was on the other side like the SX, but, it works well.
However, I'm dumping my 1600's over the winter.... to friggin big.. I have them pretty much dialed in so that the transition is smooth, but without the Haltech.. it was a big slog when they turned on.....
I'm going with Marren 780's in the primaries and 1000's in the secondaries thats more than enough fuel for my needs (and almost every other TII!!!)
How the hell are you keeping that thing cool with a black magic and a front mount... my temps were retarded high with the FMIC and the black magic even with the Koyo Rad....
