Maintenance on 1991 RX7 with 67k Miles
Maintenance on 1991 RX7 with 67k Miles
Posting for a friend:
Hey guys I recently purchased my 91 FC coupe with 67k miles. It sat in the sun for about 10 years I would say. The clear coat is all burnt up, and engine bay is dirtier than my other FC with 185k miles, but interior is really nice.
The motor runs really well in my opinion, but I would like to know what to do in order to keep it running well. Here are the things that I and the previous owners have replaced:
Coils
Sparks
Oil
Coolant
Waterpump
Thermostat
Radiator (and hoses)
Oil (duh)
I was thinking of doing the vacuum hoses but the seem like a pain. Also, do I need to change the OMP lines (oil lines?), oil cooler lines, and tranny/diff fluid?
I have a pair of racing beat oil cooler lines I would like to swap but the effort seems like a lot and my car leaks no fluids at all.
Brakes and tires need replacing soon also and I will do that. Also AC ill be fixed.
Please tell me what you guys think, Thank you.
Hey guys I recently purchased my 91 FC coupe with 67k miles. It sat in the sun for about 10 years I would say. The clear coat is all burnt up, and engine bay is dirtier than my other FC with 185k miles, but interior is really nice.
The motor runs really well in my opinion, but I would like to know what to do in order to keep it running well. Here are the things that I and the previous owners have replaced:
Coils
Sparks
Oil
Coolant
Waterpump
Thermostat
Radiator (and hoses)
Oil (duh)
I was thinking of doing the vacuum hoses but the seem like a pain. Also, do I need to change the OMP lines (oil lines?), oil cooler lines, and tranny/diff fluid?
I have a pair of racing beat oil cooler lines I would like to swap but the effort seems like a lot and my car leaks no fluids at all.
Brakes and tires need replacing soon also and I will do that. Also AC ill be fixed.
Please tell me what you guys think, Thank you.
Fuel filter, and check belts and hoses (the rest of them, like the coolant ones near the rad and smaller ones near the firewall). Yes, I'd change the tranny fluid and diff. (diff may need LSD additive if it has the LSD).
Coil and w/p wouldn't be normal maintenance btw, unless no good/noisy/leaking.
Other stuff would be check wiper blades, wipers and washer, defrost/heater/fan and headlights and rest of the lights outside and inside and function check to make sure things work on a rainy day. You said brakes and tires - change ASAP...old tires especially can go at any time. Don't ask. Make sure the person doing the brakes is thorough (i.e. lube sliders, etc.).
edit: if the vaccum lines aren't brittle/cracking/leaking and you're not sure of what you're doing, have someone else replace them. Many people end up with vacuum leaks.
Coil and w/p wouldn't be normal maintenance btw, unless no good/noisy/leaking.
Other stuff would be check wiper blades, wipers and washer, defrost/heater/fan and headlights and rest of the lights outside and inside and function check to make sure things work on a rainy day. You said brakes and tires - change ASAP...old tires especially can go at any time. Don't ask. Make sure the person doing the brakes is thorough (i.e. lube sliders, etc.).
edit: if the vaccum lines aren't brittle/cracking/leaking and you're not sure of what you're doing, have someone else replace them. Many people end up with vacuum leaks.
Replacing the omp lines would not be a bad idea. Karack sells nice ones that he makes. I also have a set from him that I am not using and would be willing to sell. You could also ditch the omp all together and run premix. My t2 has 68,000 miles and one of the lines literally fell apart when I was removing it.
Definitely check the FAQ thread or whatever. Arron Cake also has a website with lots of info.
Definitely check the FAQ thread or whatever. Arron Cake also has a website with lots of info.
The car pretty much sat in the sun for 10 years in the sun as it only got driven 4.5k miles thats only 450 miles a year.
pfsantos- yeah I will change the brakes asap but as for the tires im holding out since I want to find a nice set of wheels to put on. most of the other stuff you list seems to be replaced or functioning such as fuel filter and wiper blades, washer fluid etc...
tuscanidream- Yeah i read if 1 of the omp lines fails your engine dies. I read a few threads about premix and one of my friends run it so Ill probably convert it to premix soon.
pfsantos- yeah I will change the brakes asap but as for the tires im holding out since I want to find a nice set of wheels to put on. most of the other stuff you list seems to be replaced or functioning such as fuel filter and wiper blades, washer fluid etc...
tuscanidream- Yeah i read if 1 of the omp lines fails your engine dies. I read a few threads about premix and one of my friends run it so Ill probably convert it to premix soon.
K, just be careful with the tires though. No highway speeds, IMHO. I had an old tire explode on me on vacation in Portugal (long story). Even if there's plenty of tread, the tire rubber ages and dries out. It's been even recommended to replace tires after six years (granted, I believe that's the rubber association or something). And yours have been sitting for a long time...in the sun.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Sonora, CA
I just found this thread on A/C the other day. Check it out, it's pretty cool.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...gerant-964688/
Also, you may want to tune the throttle sensor for better response(this is for a Non-Turbo). You have to make a little check light. I used two small bulbs from some old instrument panel. Each bulb has a - and +. The two +'s go to one spade, and each ground to it's own spade. Make sure the vehicle is all the way warmed up, and plug this in to the green three prong connector behind the air filter housing, on the passenger side. With the key on/engine off, one light should be on, one should be off. If both are on or both are off, it is out of spec.
This link is kinda helpful, I do the factory method using my check light. The "JohnR Voltmeter Method" is a pain in the ***. It's much easier with a check-light.
2nd Gen TPS Adjustment
Good luck! Gotta love the 91's
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...gerant-964688/
Also, you may want to tune the throttle sensor for better response(this is for a Non-Turbo). You have to make a little check light. I used two small bulbs from some old instrument panel. Each bulb has a - and +. The two +'s go to one spade, and each ground to it's own spade. Make sure the vehicle is all the way warmed up, and plug this in to the green three prong connector behind the air filter housing, on the passenger side. With the key on/engine off, one light should be on, one should be off. If both are on or both are off, it is out of spec.
This link is kinda helpful, I do the factory method using my check light. The "JohnR Voltmeter Method" is a pain in the ***. It's much easier with a check-light.
2nd Gen TPS Adjustment
Good luck! Gotta love the 91's
Last edited by MountainSeven; Jun 6, 2013 at 04:28 PM. Reason: I always forget to upload pics!!
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MECP Certified Installer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 3
From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
I did the same thing as mentioned above, but I used 12v LED's from radio shack. It worked 100x better than trying to use a multimeter because you are seeing what the ECU sees. I tried the multimeter method, and it didn't work for me, but making cheap version of the mazda SST worked flawless.
Protip: If you adjust the TPS and nail it into the correct spot, NEVER push on the adjustment screw to rev the engine. Doing this can move the retainer spring and make your adjustment off again. If you need to rev the engine in the engine compartment, pull on the throttle cable instead.
Protip: If you adjust the TPS and nail it into the correct spot, NEVER push on the adjustment screw to rev the engine. Doing this can move the retainer spring and make your adjustment off again. If you need to rev the engine in the engine compartment, pull on the throttle cable instead.
Last edited by jjwalker; Jun 6, 2013 at 05:05 PM.
Thanks guys I did plan on using r152 duster as my cooling since it was cheap and looks like itll work well. I gotta look at my entire AC system first to see what needs fixing.
As for throttle adjustments, I have the little lights that someone gave me when i bought a different fc a while ago so ill look into that too
my idle is funky since my friend messed with the screw near the alternator so its gotta be fixed too
As for throttle adjustments, I have the little lights that someone gave me when i bought a different fc a while ago so ill look into that too
my idle is funky since my friend messed with the screw near the alternator so its gotta be fixed too
MECP Certified Installer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 3
From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
Thanks guys I did plan on using r152 duster as my cooling since it was cheap and looks like itll work well. I gotta look at my entire AC system first to see what needs fixing.
As for throttle adjustments, I have the little lights that someone gave me when i bought a different fc a while ago so ill look into that too
my idle is funky since my friend messed with the screw near the alternator so its gotta be fixed too
As for throttle adjustments, I have the little lights that someone gave me when i bought a different fc a while ago so ill look into that too
my idle is funky since my friend messed with the screw near the alternator so its gotta be fixed too
People will argue all day long that using a multimeter works better, but in my experience in adjust TPS sensors new and old, the LED tester I made works better.
I'll try and find a pic of it. I cost me like $8 in parts from radio shack.
Another quick tip...it's obvious to most the engine has to be completely warm. But sometimes the fast idle thermowax doesn't expand enough (or has been messed with) to let the fast itdle cam off completely at the back of the TB. When the car is warm, use a long flat headed screwdriver to push on the bracket that turns as the thermowax expands. It's at the back of the TB like I said and has a screw pointing up that touches the thermowax. If the cam is not off fast idle, you'll see the throttle close further when you push on the cam down and rotate it.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
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From: Columbia, Tennessee
It will take more than one OMP line failing to blow an engine unless your beating on it.
-I'd pull the fuel pump and check inside the tank for rust.
-Replace the fuel lines and filter.
-Vacuum lines (more important than you may think, even if it is a pain).
-Intake gaskets (along with vacuum lines)
-Injector grommets and O rings (along with vacuum lines and gaskets)
-I'd pull the fuel pump and check inside the tank for rust.
-Replace the fuel lines and filter.
-Vacuum lines (more important than you may think, even if it is a pain).
-Intake gaskets (along with vacuum lines)
-Injector grommets and O rings (along with vacuum lines and gaskets)
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: NH
K, just be careful with the tires though. No highway speeds, IMHO. I had an old tire explode on me on vacation in Portugal (long story). Even if there's plenty of tread, the tire rubber ages and dries out. It's been even recommended to replace tires after six years (granted, I believe that's the rubber association or something). And yours have been sitting for a long time...in the sun.
Used tires have been the subject of growing concern by automakers and safety advocates. While the tire industry has fought efforts to require clear manufacture dates be printed on tires, car manufacturers and regulatory agencies such as NHTSA have begun taking steps in the right direction. To determine the age of your tire, here is what you need to know:
1. The DOT serial number is on a tire's sidewall near the wheel rim.
2. For tires manufactured in 2000 and after, there are four numbers at the end of the serial number. The first two numbers identify the week (from 01 to 52) and the last two numbers identify the year. If your tire has 4604 as the last four digits of your DOT number, it indicates the tire was manufactured in the 46th week of 2004
3. For tires made in 1999 and before, there are three numbers. The first two numbers indicate the week, the last number indicates the year, for example, the code 105 would indicate the tire was made in the 10th week of 1995, or in March 1995.
If you determine that your tires are 6 years or older, you may be at risk of a tire related failure or tread separation as a result of its age, and you should consider changing your tires immediately as a safety precaution.
1. The DOT serial number is on a tire's sidewall near the wheel rim.
2. For tires manufactured in 2000 and after, there are four numbers at the end of the serial number. The first two numbers identify the week (from 01 to 52) and the last two numbers identify the year. If your tire has 4604 as the last four digits of your DOT number, it indicates the tire was manufactured in the 46th week of 2004
3. For tires made in 1999 and before, there are three numbers. The first two numbers indicate the week, the last number indicates the year, for example, the code 105 would indicate the tire was made in the 10th week of 1995, or in March 1995.
If you determine that your tires are 6 years or older, you may be at risk of a tire related failure or tread separation as a result of its age, and you should consider changing your tires immediately as a safety precaution.
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