main fuse with FD alternator
#26
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 0
Received 131 Likes
on
114 Posts
/\ /\. Exactly..the Wiring on the car has an 80 amp Fuse.Now IF you Put on an FD alternator,and I am Assuming that you would be doinmg that beacuse you would like to have an "Obnoxious 2,000 watt 3 foot Woofer to annoy people at Stop lights" Stereo..(Just kidding man!)..then that Stereo,or Whatever would have it's own Wiring,and Not be Running through the 80 amp Car wiring.Even the Aftermarket Electrical fan is Wired to the Battery,somehow.That won't suck as much as what the Wiring is meant for.The alternator only Puts out what it need to(as TED said..it comes down to how much the Circuit is Drawing,amperage wise)..So,..In short What I am Saying is:Save your Freakin 6 Bucks(new 100 amp main fuse cost).!..You just Plain Don't need it.
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Cyprus
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys for all the replies. I will not change the main fuse on the car after reading your comments and getting your advice. The reason I got an FD alternator is because I got it for free since its easier to have access to FD parts than FC parts here. I am probably one of the handfull fcs in my town. Its all FDs and Rx8s here. For every 30 Fds you see you are lucky if you see one FC :-) Some of my friends drive 2002 spirit R Fds, RZs and most of the FDs here are 96+
#29
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: usa
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bolts up to s4 and s5 physically, but I have found that unless you want to use a longer belt, there is a small section on the underneath area of the FD alt that needs to be ground/cut off to allow full range of adjustment. ITs a small piece of the case on the bottom, near the main bolt that holds the alternator to the waterpump housing.
it plugs right into s5 models, however s4's require the 89-95 plug and a larger ring terminal for the B+ wire.
it plugs right into s5 models, however s4's require the 89-95 plug and a larger ring terminal for the B+ wire.
#30
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Alternator schematics: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=199213
Alternator pin-outs: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=170065
#32
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: usa
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
He does tend to be argumentative, but he also posts a lot of useful information so I would not say anything about banning. He is just a little too attatched to forcing his personal opinion on others as the only way things can/should be. He's quite a smart feller...or a fart smeller?
Along with HAILERS and a few others on here, he is one of the "purists" who believe we should all enjoy basically stock cars as mazda intended back in the 1980's with as few changes as possible. ...Because we all know that mazda's 20 year old design was perfect, had no flaws in engineering or compromises in part quality, and no technological or design improvements have been made since that time. And no one really needs more than 175 whp anyway, so you should just be happy with your rotary engine in stock form without molesting it.
This is clearly illustrated by such owner favorites as the leaky pulsation damper, well contstructed electrical solder joints in the interior electronics, the short thermowax hose on turbo engines, exceptionally sensitive (compared to other cars) TPS sensors, etc.
Along with HAILERS and a few others on here, he is one of the "purists" who believe we should all enjoy basically stock cars as mazda intended back in the 1980's with as few changes as possible. ...Because we all know that mazda's 20 year old design was perfect, had no flaws in engineering or compromises in part quality, and no technological or design improvements have been made since that time. And no one really needs more than 175 whp anyway, so you should just be happy with your rotary engine in stock form without molesting it.
This is clearly illustrated by such owner favorites as the leaky pulsation damper, well contstructed electrical solder joints in the interior electronics, the short thermowax hose on turbo engines, exceptionally sensitive (compared to other cars) TPS sensors, etc.
#33
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Because we all know that mazda's 20 year old design was perfect, had no flaws in engineering or compromises in part quality, and no technological or design improvements have been made since that time.
And no one really needs more than 175 whp anyway, so you should just be happy with your rotary engine in stock form without molesting it.
This is clearly illustrated by such owner favorites as the leaky pulsation damper, well contstructed electrical solder joints in the interior electronics, the short thermowax hose on turbo engines, exceptionally sensitive (compared to other cars) TPS sensors, etc.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
The1Sun
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
09-18-15 07:13 PM