Hey guys, I think my clutch might last me another week or so if I'm lucky Here's the deal, say I'm just rollin down the highway at 70 in 5th gear, that's about 3K RPM I guess and then I stomp on the gas as if I wanted to pass but didn't feel like downshifting....well the RPM almost instantly fly up to around 5K but the car stays at 70...I keep my foot on the gas and the rpm hold steady at 5K and the speed slowly climbs up to around 90 then the rpm and the speed climb together after that...this is accomponied by a very strong "burnt brake" type smell. The same thing happens in everygear! So it seems to me that the clutch if fully engaged, but it is slipping under load as if I was launching gently in traffic, and the friction surface (or lack there-of) is burning away rapidly. Also I tried to park the car in first and push it by hand...well me and one of my big friends can manage to barely roll the car while in first gear SO that pretty much confirms my fear that my clutch is pretty well dead! Who agrees with me on this?

Also now that I am in the market for a clutch, what do you guys have in mind, I want lots of holding power but still be able to slip it for traffic. I'll also swap to a medium or lightweight flywheel. But I'm not made of money, so a lower price tag is looking very nice right about now.

By the way, my power right now is I guess around 180, (never been on a dyno) but my goals are around 250 so I want a clutch that will hold at least my goal power.

Later!

 

Yeah your clutch is fried man....I can relate.....going through the same thing....racing beat has the flywheel for about $390....at least thats for the turbo.....the n/a should be less....as far as the clutch check out nopi.com or the ACT web site....u should find what u r looking for at either.....

 

Yep, your clutch is toast...

As for a new one, try ACT... They've got a great reputation and make good products. Shop online and you can usually buy a flywheel/Clutch Happy Meal* (everything in a nice box and the clutch alignment tool for the prize). Don't fall prey to newbie syndrome and pick up a 6-puck metal full-race clutch just because it's not that much more... They are hell on your calf and make your driving experience less than what it should be.

While you're at it, either get a rebuild kit for your clutch slave/master or buy new ones!

My .02...

*Credit for the "Clutch Happy Meal" goes to Bill Cardell of FlyinMiata.com

 

What do you think of the centerforce dual friction clutch and pressure plate? Is that too harsh? And a 12 pound flywheel?
Any suggestions would be nice.

 

Everyone I know that has gotten a centerforce dual friction clutch has had to replace it in a matter of months. Sometimes shorter then that. IMO they suck!
I'm useing an ACT unit on my FC, and we have an ACT Unit on are teams 3 rotor drag car. Now for flywheels. I like the 12 pound one for road racing and the light steel one for drag racing.
Thanks
Scott C.

 

thanks dude, only problem, I can't find a ACT street/strip clutch for a 90 NA only turbo anyone know where I can find one?

 

You got a N/A. You don't need a ACT or Centerforce till you start breakin like 210 hp. I have a CAP clutch. It cost like $150 for pressure plate, clutch plate, and both bearings. I do 7-9k RPM shifts all the time, and it still slips fine from stoplight to stoplight. It only slips when I have been doing a lot of HARD driving on a hot day. i have had it for like abut 7 months now,and I still love it!!

http://www.capclutch.com/mazrx712a183.html for the high performance one

http://www.capclutch.com/rx78913lnont.html for the OEM quality one

 

Right, I have prolly around 180-190 right now, but will have more like 230-250 by years end, so I might as well get a stronger clutch now. I'm lookin to buy the set from DAVE.
Peace.