Hello, anyone else know of a manufacturer that deals with a better designed stock turbo manifold that isn't 1cm from the highest heat point?

Im only aware of this expensive home made project piece. RE-Amemiya Stainless Stock Turbo Exhaust Manifold FC3S - RHDJapan

Iv'e seen examples of Racing beat modified flanges, but maybe I missed something? and cheaper alternatives exist?

*rebuilding turbo and port* Would like to see if I should slap on that nasty cast, or go big.

 

There's basically no market for aftermarket internal wastegate divided manifolds. Everyone sticks with the stock one, because it's cheap and it makes all the stock hardware fit (oil lines etc), or they go with an aftermarket manifold meant for external gates.

 

The stock S5 manifold probably works better with the stock turbo than that RE Amemiya piece.

It is a lot easier to cast a nice "velocity stack" transition than cut and weld stainless pipe to get it.

The RE Amemiya manifold doesn't address a single drawback of the stock manifold except bling and weight.

Port the stock one's runners smooth and get it ceramic coated.

 

Kinda had a feeling the responses would sound along those lines...

The idea behind this was, rebuilding the stock turbo, while increasing the ability to run more boost. But 10psi isn't really requiring me to upgrade it.

But? Where would you suggest I make a port for an exhaust gas temp sensor?
As I don't see much for depth.

Option #2 Will end up going that route.

 

For fastest readings, you want the thermocouple as close to the engine block as possible, so 1 cm is good as long as you have room to tap the manifold. Most people just mount the EGT after the turbo and tune on the dyno where fast readings are not as important.

However, I think that you are making a mountain out of a molehill. With the OEM turbo, just use a pre-tuned RTek chip and call it good. There is no need to mess with tuning at this level.

 

I tapped into the stock S5 manifold for EGT right near the engine flange on each runner.

You can access them from under the car with the turbo on, its in a good location.

I am speaking from some experience.
I used the stock S5 manifold with my BNR stage4 with just polished runners and it worked very well except for the boost creep I had.

In order to try to negate the boost creep I ported the stock manifold and turbo runners larger up to the wastegate. The larger volume and less ideal shape hurt the boost response.

I have seen many tubular manifolds and few have a really good transition into the turbo flange as the stock S5 manifold does. I am not saying it is a great manifold for flow, but I am saying it suits the stock turbo very well.

 

i just looked at the area of the port vs exit of the engine vs t3 and t4 turbos, and i need to do some more work, but the transition from the port to the exit of the engine to the pipe size we want to run is really weird, and it would be hard to get a tubular manifold to be the right sizes.

just as an example the stock port is ~38mm, the port exit is ~48mm, and we want it to go into a 44mm pipe and then into a 50mmx20mm turbo, the size changes are just funky.

evidence says that the exhaust sleeve is too big at the port exit

 

The problem with that:

Well if that's the case here is all I'm looking to do.
I have attempted to use a N374 with standard chip tune and safc (Neo), they cause boost cut due to N374 2ndary cut's. (FCD+SAFC no good). No boost 3k redline

What will work is a F-CON with it's own FCD and a map sensor.

ANYWHO, I should just need a ported JDM S5 twin and upgraded waste-gate good for 10-16psi. As for the EGT, It's do-able will end up drilling and welding in a bung, as trapping cast is more chance then skill.

Lol, this thread seems to be full of useful information for myself.

 

Right, you are making an overly-complex system that is too difficult for you to tune properly. Check out Stage 1 here:
Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information

 

we run 10-12psi max on the stock turbos because that is point where the compressor wheel becomes so inefficient running more boost probably won't add power and intake temps will go up a lot, nothing to do with the manifold.

there is also some evidence to suggest that the turbo is actually over spinning too, which explains why turbo life is very short over 10psi.

 

Well, I do remember reading on the stock twin scroll, and
Looks like I'm going the route of a T4, external: I would like to make it less complicated but, if I'm heading that direction I might end up following though, I was trying to make a stock build but as the S5 Is, it doesn't seem likely 10psi will take me where I want to be.

I ended up with the best situation tuned chip / Fcon and increased boost to, now requiring all the parts and pieces to run a T4, I just need a T4 hks rom for my safc F-con. And..........
Cooling, oil pressure, piping, inter-cooler,injectors, rails: WAIT A MINUTE I got those!

TADA!

300 dollars to 3,000! My hopes of a simple fresh stock-ish build will end up a big turd stain in my wallet.

Was gonna happen eventually, I enjoy the stock setup but with a street port I'm not leading myself down a cheap path to begin with.

Mainly this stemmed from my current setup of a street ported fc on a stock ecu with stock injectors, which runs and idles fine but will get rich often during boost and lean on rare occasions. I havn't had the feeling of real boost in a while... this will make out for it.

 

Will say this... 99% of "Attempting to" TUNE cars in Canada end up being some V8 guy thinking if he puts a fuel cut and cheap fuel computer on a jdm car it will let him run all the boost he want's and it HAS TO have a full stand alone to fix the problem.

Eatherway... Took a while for me to come to that conclusion long ago, at least It's cleared up here.... Though I do get tired of locals saying every problem is a vacuum leak, that does tend to get rather hilarious as no one can rationally fix a problem that stems from 0 understanding of electrical components...

Now I wish I lived in the states.