Has anyone tried or uses or even heard anything about Lucas Oil in a Turbo rotary? I want to raise my oil pressure up a tad bit and was wondering if it would be okay to use? Its about 15 psi at idle and raises on throttle but I want it up atleast 30 psi at idle. Just to be safe. Anyone ever use it?

 

Jesus Christ! Where to start? First of al, if you are having problems with oil pressure, adress them at a mechanical level, not with a bottle. Secondly, whatever is in Lucas might be very bad burning inside of your engine.

 

I thought that stuff was for trannys only?

 

General rule: All additives (except Watter Wetter and injector cleaner) are snake oil. They will either do nothing, or cause damage. They will never provide a gain.

If your oil pressure is low, you best verify with a mechanical gauage and then fix the problem. Suspect the o-ring at the front cover.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

The funny thing is that the counter top Lucas/oil handcrank display is convincing for some people. Try had cranking the autoparts store counter top Lucas display at 8000rpm.

Use a different weight oil if you want more pressure and there are no mechanical issues.

Why do you want more pressure?
What kind of gauge/sender/location are you using?

Your engine is designed within certain parameters. More oil pressure is bad if it is caused by restrictions, overly tight clearances, cold oil, or using the wrong weight for the vehicles usage.

 

No mech issues you are kidding right?? Do you know how many oil pressure regulator and bypass valve in that little engine?? A couple!!! But really is best to go to a shop or a friend that has a oil pressure gaugh to check the real oil pressure. I don't trust any of my gaugh at all. Oil leaks also cause oil pressure drop and thin oil would do cause low oil pressure too. And yeah low oil pressure can kill your engine. Also check your OMP and system if you have time they like to leak too!

 

Now, that study is hardly scientific. It's one test, without any heat, pressure, etc. tests. And really, the only reason the oil will "climb" is because it is being thinned out. This is a bad thing...

If oil additives are so good, they would be included with the oil...

 

have you ever seen that lucas stuff its like syrup thier is no way it is thinning the oil its makng it way thicker and much more sticky

 

Just because something is thick in it's own bottle doesn't mean it won't thin out when it mixes with something else.

I'll put it another way: not one single oil manufacturer recommends the use of additives with their oil. In fact, I believe the warrentys of several of them (if not all) specifically state that they are voided with the addition of additives.

It's also worth mentioning that excessively thick oil is just as bad as thin oil. It won't make it into the smaller areas and will cause lack of lubrication.

 

A lot of motorcycle guys love that stuff, it has been known to mysteriously stop spun bearings in high hp motors, and I have been told it really smooth out the engagement of wet clutches and lets them grip harder.

I haven't seen any proof of such a thing, so don't go dumping it in your R1, but just a little something I thought I would add.

 

Can you go into a little bit more detail? Is it replaceable aside from getting a whole new front cover?

If it can be considered a high mileage maintenance item, I'd like to add it to my list of things to do over the winter.

 

like someone else said, the best way to raise your oil pressure is to use higher weight oil. I use 15w50 and it idles between thirty and sixty, but when driving it goes to 110. Im going to change mine back, because I dont want it up so high.

 

I cut off the crank of one, and put a cordless drill on it @ O'Riellys... the plastic gears broke, and the oil splattered on the case.

 

NO, DONT GET IT. I HEARD A GUY SCREWED UP A ROTOR WHEN HE PUT IT IN. just dont, it cant help at all, unless you hate your car

 

I don't understand what's the big fuss over oil additives?? Why??
Oil companies go to great lenghs to keep viscosity from breaking down and improves there oil time after time. Some of you guys have no idea what happens to oil when heated up to 200 deg.
That display with the wheel and container is just dumb. Try that with a heated oil at 200 deg.
A 20W50 oil will do the same when cold. **** even an Aunt Jemima syrup will do the same.
Use quality oil , use the right viscosity and change your oil every 3-4000 miles. That's all you need to do.
If your oil pressure reads about 65 +- around 3000 rpm, it's normal. If it reads very low, you have a leak, o-ring (front housing) going, or clogged oil filter. If you're using very thin oil (10W30), that will cause oil pressure to read low. A 10W30 should be only used during winter.
You shouldn't rely on a stock gauge to get precise readings. If in doubt, hook up a pressure gauge or install a *quality* aftermarket gauge.

 

I like the way you think. If the car has high miles, don't wait until things break and cause damage.
If you want to change the o-ring at the front cover, it's easy to do but use precautions when unbolting the eccentric shaft bolt. There's a shitload of discussion on it in this forum. I'd change to a solid pellet as I did. That thing will never fail and give you a solid pressure granted everything else is ok.
If you're going to disassemble the front area to work on, it may be a good time to change since the shroud, fan and pullies will need to be removed.
Read the Mazdatrix site and it shows you what it looks like.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

Remember, Hylomar is your best friend

 

Just remember to have the clutch pedal pressed from the second you remove that e-shaft hub bolt, otherwise you risk your thrust bearing falling off the spacer and getting crushed, which is NOT good. So just jam your clutch pedal to the floor when you remove it, and don't take it off until the front cover is back on and the hub bolt is back down

 

Actually, the proper way to raise oil pressure is to install a higher pressure regulator.

PM'd you about your avatar.

 

Mr cake. I'd like you to watch the more recent project farm where they test motorkote...... lmk what u think.....

 

I switched to 20w-50 oil thinking that the thicker oil would raise my low compression problems.
My rear rotor bearing spun, taking out the stationary gear. Lack of lubrication??


Due to too heavy of an oil? What do you think?

 

I don't claim to have an answer to what caused your bearing to spin, but I'm certain changing oil viscosity didn't do it. Mazda recommends 20W50 in their manual (amongst a wide range of others) and I've been running it for a long time with no issues.

That's some pretty impressive damage though. How fast were you going when it seized?

 

Can not speak to rotaries, but the lucas stuff is money on piston engines. As to heavier oil.... within 10 minutes that 20-50 will be 10/30 thickness. I had an Altima vs years ago I ran 20/50 in and it had 220k when I sold it. The buyer said damn, this thing runs strong. My only complaint was the main seal started the drip about 200k which is why I sold it.A 3.5 v6 might see 6k once on a great while though.

 

That's the important question!

I was doing about 40 mph on a slight hill at part throttle, out of the blue it locked up!

Put it in neutral and coasted to the side of the road. A few years later you see the results, no oil warning light, no nothing!

The front rotor bearing looked fine, so what could it of been?

Lack of lubrication from the bearing lug giving out and the turned bearing blocking the oil feed from the e-shaft?

The e-shaft looks ok to me.

Let me know what you think?

Thanks for all your input, this forum is the best!