lower seat rails / stock seat
11-06-16, 10:57 PM
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lower seat rails / stock seat
Hello!
I'm curious if this will lower the seat height and also allow me to keep my OEM seat.
I'm feeling a bit too large for my FC and do not want to have to sell it :/
Nagisa Auto Mazda RX-7 FC3S Super Low Seat Rail
I'm curious if this will lower the seat height and also allow me to keep my OEM seat.
I'm feeling a bit too large for my FC and do not want to have to sell it :/
Nagisa Auto Mazda RX-7 FC3S Super Low Seat Rail
11-06-16, 11:14 PM
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In this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...9/#post8677750
One user says:
"If you don't need adjustment, then just weld some square tubing to the stock crossmembers and bolt the seat on directly.
Or if you need to go lower, cut out the crossmembers and bolt directly to the floor. Weld a 1/4" plate to the underbody at each bolt hole."
another guy starts talking about a "bride rail", I'm not sure I'm looking to replace the seat, just lower it. Is this possible? I'm open to fabrication...
One user says:
"If you don't need adjustment, then just weld some square tubing to the stock crossmembers and bolt the seat on directly.
Or if you need to go lower, cut out the crossmembers and bolt directly to the floor. Weld a 1/4" plate to the underbody at each bolt hole."
another guy starts talking about a "bride rail", I'm not sure I'm looking to replace the seat, just lower it. Is this possible? I'm open to fabrication...
11-06-16, 11:16 PM
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I would like to be able to sit with my back straight, currently if I do - my head hits the convertible top (when it's up). Otherwise my eye-line is way close to the visor/windshield top. If I could go 3 inches lower I think I'd be satisfied.
Thank you
Thank you
11-07-16, 09:06 AM
#6
Although it may not seem so, 3" is a LOT of space to lose.
I see no way to get that much drop unless you cut out the cross members and do as gsilv recommended.
Fortunately, I assume you're only interested in modding the driver side, which is by far the simplest side to work on.
I see no way to get that much drop unless you cut out the cross members and do as gsilv recommended.
Fortunately, I assume you're only interested in modding the driver side, which is by far the simplest side to work on.
11-07-16, 10:32 AM
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Although it may not seem so, 3" is a LOT of space to lose.
I see no way to get that much drop unless you cut out the cross members and do as gsilv recommended.
Fortunately, I assume you're only interested in modding the driver side, which is by far the simplest side to work on.
I see no way to get that much drop unless you cut out the cross members and do as gsilv recommended.
Fortunately, I assume you're only interested in modding the driver side, which is by far the simplest side to work on.
Socket wrenches to remove the seat + ?
Thank you again for you reply.
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11-07-16, 11:17 AM
#8
I believe the seat bolts take a 14mm socket.
Pretty much the best you can do with the stock seat and stock floorpan is to remove the seat tracks and make a flat strap bracket to bolt to the original mount points.
This might net you maybe an inch (probably closer to 3/4") but will give you an idea of how much more space you need.
From then on I think you'll be cutting up the floor/crossbraces to go lower.
Do verts have less headroom than coupes from the factory?
Your best fit into a FC may be a non sunroof coupe.
Pretty much the best you can do with the stock seat and stock floorpan is to remove the seat tracks and make a flat strap bracket to bolt to the original mount points.
This might net you maybe an inch (probably closer to 3/4") but will give you an idea of how much more space you need.
From then on I think you'll be cutting up the floor/crossbraces to go lower.
Do verts have less headroom than coupes from the factory?
Your best fit into a FC may be a non sunroof coupe.
11-07-16, 01:47 PM
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I believe the seat bolts take a 14mm socket.
Pretty much the best you can do with the stock seat and stock floorpan is to remove the seat tracks and make a flat strap bracket to bolt to the original mount points.
This might net you maybe an inch (probably closer to 3/4") but will give you an idea of how much more space you need.
From then on I think you'll be cutting up the floor/crossbraces to go lower.
Do verts have less headroom than coupes from the factory?
Your best fit into a FC may be a non sunroof coupe.
Pretty much the best you can do with the stock seat and stock floorpan is to remove the seat tracks and make a flat strap bracket to bolt to the original mount points.
This might net you maybe an inch (probably closer to 3/4") but will give you an idea of how much more space you need.
From then on I think you'll be cutting up the floor/crossbraces to go lower.
Do verts have less headroom than coupes from the factory?
Your best fit into a FC may be a non sunroof coupe.
What would you suggest I pick up to use for a "flat strap bracket"?
I appreciate your time and attention, thank you.
11-07-16, 04:34 PM
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I'll likely need 4 bolts and 4 new nuts as well, right?
11-07-16, 05:54 PM
#12
I don't recall the exact hardware that bolts the rails to the seatframe but yup, you'll need two of whatever to attach each seatrail to the seatframe bottom and use the four stock bolts to bolt the assembly to the car.
I've never closely looked at the vert seat mounts but here's a tip that works well on coupes:
Of the four floor mount bolts, the two up front are definitely the easiest to deal with and the rears can be awful. You're blind threading a fine pitch bolt through thick carpet at a weird angle and you'll grow to hate it as you in>out>in your seat during the course of your project.
Replace the two rear bolts with studs.
You can tilt the seat to drop the runners over the studs and then slide forward and down to get the front bolts in. It's about a hundred times easier, you'll see.
I would assume that verts are more likely to have had wet interiors and it's likely those seat bolts are cranky anyway...a new stud would eliminate that problem as well.
I've never closely looked at the vert seat mounts but here's a tip that works well on coupes:
Of the four floor mount bolts, the two up front are definitely the easiest to deal with and the rears can be awful. You're blind threading a fine pitch bolt through thick carpet at a weird angle and you'll grow to hate it as you in>out>in your seat during the course of your project.
Replace the two rear bolts with studs.
You can tilt the seat to drop the runners over the studs and then slide forward and down to get the front bolts in. It's about a hundred times easier, you'll see.
I would assume that verts are more likely to have had wet interiors and it's likely those seat bolts are cranky anyway...a new stud would eliminate that problem as well.
11-07-16, 06:27 PM
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Thank you, I'm going to refer to this.
also, I couldn't figure out how to adjust the height of the headrest.
If I'm successful in this, I'll want the headrest higher so that everything is more suiting of my height.
also, I couldn't figure out how to adjust the height of the headrest.
If I'm successful in this, I'll want the headrest higher so that everything is more suiting of my height.