lots of '88 questions!
#1
lots of '88 questions!
So i am finally able to drive my s4 and have a few issues.
First off, the hagard stock exhaust didnt have the auxilary port back pressure tube hooked up for who knows how long. Installed my racing beat road race header and presilencer put on with custom pipng out the back. Now my auxilary ports are not working. even got some used ones with gaskets in far better condition and still nothing. was racing beats pickup tube line supposed to plug into the line above the rear port? if that is plugged into the propper place what can i do to get them to work? They move freely by hand..
Second, my idle is surging during warm up really bad or even when it is warmed up if i hold it at about 2,100 rpms. does that sound like a vacuum leak?
Third, My turn signals and hazards do not work. I can hear the flasher working under the dash but my dash arrows dont light up as well as the actual turn signals outside the car.
Thank you to anyone who can give me input or propper lynks to either or all my questions!
Idk if its me or the search engine that is retarded but i never have any luck searching on this forum. (could very well be me)
First off, the hagard stock exhaust didnt have the auxilary port back pressure tube hooked up for who knows how long. Installed my racing beat road race header and presilencer put on with custom pipng out the back. Now my auxilary ports are not working. even got some used ones with gaskets in far better condition and still nothing. was racing beats pickup tube line supposed to plug into the line above the rear port? if that is plugged into the propper place what can i do to get them to work? They move freely by hand..
Second, my idle is surging during warm up really bad or even when it is warmed up if i hold it at about 2,100 rpms. does that sound like a vacuum leak?
Third, My turn signals and hazards do not work. I can hear the flasher working under the dash but my dash arrows dont light up as well as the actual turn signals outside the car.
Thank you to anyone who can give me input or propper lynks to either or all my questions!
Idk if its me or the search engine that is retarded but i never have any luck searching on this forum. (could very well be me)
#2
Rotary Freak
Two fuse are required for the signals to work. Turn and Stop. Seems the Turn is good. Check to make sure the Stop fuse is good. Step on the brakes and make sure the stop lights work ...proving the Stop fuse is good.
If both Stop and Turn are good.............then the problem lies in the CPU. Seems to me the Stop fuse is probably bad.
Get a long piece of vacuum hose and connect it to the feed for the aux ports. Blow REAL hard into that hose and the actuators should work or at least move. If not then there is a air leak at either the gaskets or the banjo bolts that tie the two actuators together.
If both Stop and Turn are good.............then the problem lies in the CPU. Seems to me the Stop fuse is probably bad.
Get a long piece of vacuum hose and connect it to the feed for the aux ports. Blow REAL hard into that hose and the actuators should work or at least move. If not then there is a air leak at either the gaskets or the banjo bolts that tie the two actuators together.
#3
if the fuse for the turn signals didnt work would i hear the flasher? i dont have a fuse box cover so idk what is what.. are there any other plugs or relays or common breakage areas in the wiring for the turn signals?
will try the aux port thing asap... no words of wisdom on my ghetto idle surging?
will try the aux port thing asap... no words of wisdom on my ghetto idle surging?
#4
Rotary Freak
STOP fuse provides the output from the CPU.
See the free and online wiring diagrams for the turn signals and you can see that it takes BOTH fuses for the lights to blink on/off.
It's as simple as this. Step on the brake pedal and look and see if the stop lights came on or not.
Fuse box labels shown in the FAQ thread.
See the free and online wiring diagrams for the turn signals and you can see that it takes BOTH fuses for the lights to blink on/off.
It's as simple as this. Step on the brake pedal and look and see if the stop lights came on or not.
Fuse box labels shown in the FAQ thread.
#5
Dragons' Breath
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It is very unlikely you will get the port actuators to move when the engine does not have a good load on it .. Revving it won't do, you need to drive it and work it .. try the grease test on the actuator rods that will tell you for sure.. The small metal line should be hooked up front and rear and then to the exhaust .. I was told they only need about 2 lbs to open fully .. Try this Open both ports with the actuator rod linkage and then but your finger tight over the small metal pipe at the rear of the manifold , If things are working proper it should take a bit of time before the actuators return to their relaxed position . If they return immediately you have a leak somewhere in the actuator system ..
#7
Two fuse are required for the signals to work. Turn and Stop. Seems the Turn is good. Check to make sure the Stop fuse is good. Step on the brakes and make sure the stop lights work ...proving the Stop fuse is good.
If both Stop and Turn are good.............then the problem lies in the CPU. Seems to me the Stop fuse is probably bad.
Get a long piece of vacuum hose and connect it to the feed for the aux ports. Blow REAL hard into that hose and the actuators should work or at least move. If not then there is a air leak at either the gaskets or the banjo bolts that tie the two actuators together.
If both Stop and Turn are good.............then the problem lies in the CPU. Seems to me the Stop fuse is probably bad.
Get a long piece of vacuum hose and connect it to the feed for the aux ports. Blow REAL hard into that hose and the actuators should work or at least move. If not then there is a air leak at either the gaskets or the banjo bolts that tie the two actuators together.
Can you please tell me what the CPU is? completely different then the ecu correct?
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