2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Looks like I need a new T1 coil...

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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 08:30 PM
  #1  
Crush's Avatar
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Unhappy Looks like I need a new T1 coil...

Well, I was checking my timing today and started with the leading, everything all good, so I switch the light over to the trailing, pull the trigger, and there is no light. No light= no spark. So I took of my brand new wires and stuck a spark plug in the end, grounded it and started the car. Yep, no spark. Checked T2 with spark plug just to be sure and its good. So I guess I need a new T1 coil. Yay. Oh well, at least it is a simple fix, nothing big.
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 08:37 PM
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From: Coldspring TX
Take at least one of the small terminals off of the coil (below the plastic cover) to isolate the coil, then read it out with a meter, should be around or less than 1 ohm. If your tach works, then your trailing ignitor should be working. What about the T2 coil/wire, you get strobe on it???
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 08:41 PM
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Yea, I got the strobe on the T2 wire and also grounded and checked for spark. It was good. Just the T1 is not working. I was looking in the book about the terminals thing, what do you mean by take off one of the small terminals?
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 08:43 PM
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Why dont you check resistance in the new wire. You could havd got a bad one.
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 09:07 PM
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From: Coldspring TX
On the coil itself, under the black cover, there are two terminals for the coil. If you don't take at least one of them off & push it out of the way (to electrically isolate it), when you read it out with a meter you could conceivably read back through the wiring, instead of reading through the coil only...

Bad2ndgen had a good idea there, too

Could be a bad plug or very dirty threads, also...
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 09:11 PM
  #6  
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Yea, I am going to check the wire tomorrow. That would be alot better that having to get a new coil.
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 05:21 PM
  #7  
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Ok, now this is stupid. I checked the wire, good. I checked the T1 and T2 coil at the terminals, both are within specs. So then the manual says the last thing to do is check the CAS, and its also within specs. So, if its not the plug, not the wire, not the coil, and the CAS, what the hell is left that would make my T1 coil not fire?
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 05:27 PM
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From: Coldspring TX
Did you pull the plug and take a good look at it?
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 10:36 PM
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From: n
BE CAREFUL WHEN USING INDUCTIVE TIMING LIGHT GUNS ON THE COILS.
Most of the time, they won't trigger, especially the trailings.
I've found out that if you remove the spark plug wire off the spark plug and then lay this open end near a good ground, the longer spark will trigger most timing gun lights *and* it verifies it's firing.


-Ted
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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 11:08 AM
  #10  
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I already knwo that its not firing though. I took it out and grounded it and there was no spark at all. I also checked using a different plug and it still didnt work. So that rules out the plug, and like I already said, I already tested the wire, coil, and CAS for resistance and they are all within spec. So what else is there?
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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 11:11 AM
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From: Coldspring TX
There is a chance that the coil will read fine with the meter's puny power source, yet open up with the higher field strengths of normal operation...Not very common, but does happen...Why don't you swap the coils and see if the problem swaps?
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Old Oct 27, 2004 | 11:15 AM
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From: NJ
Just try and have the car running and hold the wire itself, without the plug, about 1/4" from ground and see if you have spark jumpimg from the wire to ground.
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