alright on saturday i will be looking at a tii. i have never owned a 7 so i dont really know what to look for.
1: Can i do a compression test just the same as a conventional engine?

2: what numbers should i be looking for?

3: also where is the fuel relay/fuse located so i know where it is when i have to pull it?

4: are there 2 or 4 plugs?and they are on the side of the motor correct?

5: also the owner said the car will sometimes flood if you attempt to start right after you shut it down, now ive read this is a common problem that you cant really fix correct?

6: he mentioned that it idles fairly rough but his asking price is only $1300 so i think i can handle it. please any tips to make this go smoother for me would be greatly appreciated. and one more things is there any certain issues pertaining to the specific year of '87 turbo's that i should know about?

 

Offer the guy $500 or walk away...
Worse case scenario the engine needs to be rebuilt.
If he's a dumbass owner who can't fix this flooding problem, he doesn't deserve his asking price for the car.


-Ted

 

Smack the guy, too.

Seriously though... what would you think the flooding problem is Ted? Injector's need to be cleaned/replaced... Injector O-Rings?

I still think a running TII for $1300 is a good deal, if the body is ok. Even if the engine is shot, $1300 is good.

 

lol, I like how you added the "worse case scenario"... Apparently my posts yesterday did some good. Better than telling him it WILL blow up within 15 minutes after buying it.

 

You're giving yourself too much credit.


-Ted

 

Admit it, Im cooler than the other side of the pillow. Its ok, admit it.

 

well the owner said the car RARELY floods but who knows how often his version of rarely is. he had also mentioned to me that there was a switch installed by the previous owner so that if it floods you flip the switch and crank it over then flip it back and it will start just fine. the body is pretty clean with no damage at all just minor fading of the paint. im going to look at it tommorow at 6 so can someone please tell me if i can use a standard compression tester to test the compression or if i need mazda'a special tool. i looked procedures up in Alldata and it lists a specific part number for a special rotary specific compression tester that must be used. so if anyone has a good method of using a normal one i would greatly appreciate info on how to do it.

 

yes you can use a standard compression gauge. While doing the compression test, hold the throttle all the way down and PUSH IN the button on the compression tester. With the button pushed in, it wont hold a reading. It will show pulses. Just make sure all the pulses are about the same PSI, and all of them are like 90PSI or more and you should have a decent motor.

 

Did you just rip off redcloud?

 

Thats wrong. The pulses should be at least 30psi and all the same, with the button pushed in. Without holding the button it should be at least 90. If the guage starts at zero then add 14.6 psi to the reading. Read about it on www.rotaryresurrection.com.

 

why would you add 14.7??? i bought the car yesterday and its really nice got it for $1k. runs good has a full racing beat exhaust test pipe, intake, apexi blow off valve, 17's, came with original rims with snow tires and 4 road racing tires. the idleing is definatly due to the apexi bov. i think it contributes to the flooding also unless im mistanken. but for a $1k i think i got an alright deal. and compression at 5500 ft elevation was around 90 in every hole so thats about right. here are a couple pics.

 

Sounds like you scored a great deal, hope you're happy with the car.

 

yeah most definatly. the only issue i have right now is the previous owner said the car had those wierd blade thing on the back hatchback window and he removed them and now there is 4 ugly brackets on the hatch. can i remove those without it leaking?

 

just wondering how the bov would affect the idle and flooding, im still learning
thanks

 

well im a dsm guy. ive had 4 and the way it works with those cars is that the stock bov(cbv) is vented back into the intake tract. but the air metering device is directly located after the air filter and the cbv vents into the intake tube just after the maf. the pcm is designed to calculate the vented air from the cbv and add fuel to compensate for this unmetered air. so when you put on an aftermarket bov or vent the stock cbv the computer will still add fuel when it thinks air is being put back into the intake tract by the cbv( like for example high rpm decel, or sudden change in throttle position from Hi TP to Low Tp) so in turn the car will run rich under certain conditions due to the computer adding fuel. im not sure if rx7's work the same way but im assuming they do and use the same basic air flow theory to compensate seeing as how the stock bov on 7's vent back the intake tract just after the air metering device just like dsm's do.