Looking at a Tii on Sat. have some Q's
#1
Pink Taco Expert
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Napa, Ca
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looking at a Tii on Sat. have some Q's
alright on saturday i will be looking at a tii. i have never owned a 7 so i dont really know what to look for.
1: Can i do a compression test just the same as a conventional engine?
2: what numbers should i be looking for?
3: also where is the fuel relay/fuse located so i know where it is when i have to pull it?
4: are there 2 or 4 plugs?and they are on the side of the motor correct?
5: also the owner said the car will sometimes flood if you attempt to start right after you shut it down, now ive read this is a common problem that you cant really fix correct?
6: he mentioned that it idles fairly rough but his asking price is only $1300 so i think i can handle it. please any tips to make this go smoother for me would be greatly appreciated. and one more things is there any certain issues pertaining to the specific year of '87 turbo's that i should know about?
1: Can i do a compression test just the same as a conventional engine?
2: what numbers should i be looking for?
3: also where is the fuel relay/fuse located so i know where it is when i have to pull it?
4: are there 2 or 4 plugs?and they are on the side of the motor correct?
5: also the owner said the car will sometimes flood if you attempt to start right after you shut it down, now ive read this is a common problem that you cant really fix correct?
6: he mentioned that it idles fairly rough but his asking price is only $1300 so i think i can handle it. please any tips to make this go smoother for me would be greatly appreciated. and one more things is there any certain issues pertaining to the specific year of '87 turbo's that i should know about?
Last edited by imdrax; 10-06-05 at 03:58 PM.
#2
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by imdrax
5: also the owner said the car will sometimes flood if you attempt to start right after you shut it down, now ive read this is a common problem that you cant really fix correct?
Worse case scenario the engine needs to be rebuilt.
If he's a dumbass owner who can't fix this flooding problem, he doesn't deserve his asking price for the car.
-Ted
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RETed
Offer the guy $500 or walk away...
Worse case scenario the engine needs to be rebuilt.
If he's a dumbass owner who can't fix this flooding problem, he doesn't deserve his asking price for the car.
-Ted
Worse case scenario the engine needs to be rebuilt.
If he's a dumbass owner who can't fix this flooding problem, he doesn't deserve his asking price for the car.
-Ted
Seriously though... what would you think the flooding problem is Ted? Injector's need to be cleaned/replaced... Injector O-Rings?
I still think a running TII for $1300 is a good deal, if the body is ok. Even if the engine is shot, $1300 is good.
#4
Originally Posted by RETed
Offer the guy $500 or walk away...
Worse case scenario the engine needs to be rebuilt.
If he's a dumbass owner who can't fix this flooding problem, he doesn't deserve his asking price for the car.
-Ted
Worse case scenario the engine needs to be rebuilt.
If he's a dumbass owner who can't fix this flooding problem, he doesn't deserve his asking price for the car.
-Ted
#5
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by 88rx7gxl
lol, I like how you added the "worse case scenario"... Apparently my posts yesterday did some good. Better than telling him it WILL blow up within 15 minutes after buying it.
-Ted
#7
Pink Taco Expert
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Napa, Ca
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well the owner said the car RARELY floods but who knows how often his version of rarely is. he had also mentioned to me that there was a switch installed by the previous owner so that if it floods you flip the switch and crank it over then flip it back and it will start just fine. the body is pretty clean with no damage at all just minor fading of the paint. im going to look at it tommorow at 6 so can someone please tell me if i can use a standard compression tester to test the compression or if i need mazda'a special tool. i looked procedures up in Alldata and it lists a specific part number for a special rotary specific compression tester that must be used. so if anyone has a good method of using a normal one i would greatly appreciate info on how to do it.
Trending Topics
#8
yes you can use a standard compression gauge. While doing the compression test, hold the throttle all the way down and PUSH IN the button on the compression tester. With the button pushed in, it wont hold a reading. It will show pulses. Just make sure all the pulses are about the same PSI, and all of them are like 90PSI or more and you should have a decent motor.
#10
pp
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Central Massachusetts
Posts: 768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 88rx7gxl
yes you can use a standard compression gauge. While doing the compression test, hold the throttle all the way down and PUSH IN the button on the compression tester. With the button pushed in, it wont hold a reading. It will show pulses. Just make sure all the pulses are about the same PSI, and all of them are like 90PSI or more and you should have a decent motor.
#11
Pink Taco Expert
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Napa, Ca
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
why would you add 14.7??? i bought the car yesterday and its really nice got it for $1k. runs good has a full racing beat exhaust test pipe, intake, apexi blow off valve, 17's, came with original rims with snow tires and 4 road racing tires. the idleing is definatly due to the apexi bov. i think it contributes to the flooding also unless im mistanken. but for a $1k i think i got an alright deal. and compression at 5500 ft elevation was around 90 in every hole so thats about right. here are a couple pics.
#13
Pink Taco Expert
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Napa, Ca
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah most definatly. the only issue i have right now is the previous owner said the car had those wierd blade thing on the back hatchback window and he removed them and now there is 4 ugly brackets on the hatch. can i remove those without it leaking?
#14
big port + big turbo=
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: 10 mins from Texas World Speedway
Posts: 661
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by imdrax
why would you add 14.7??? i bought the car yesterday and its really nice got it for $1k. runs good has a full racing beat exhaust test pipe, intake, apexi blow off valve, 17's, came with original rims with snow tires and 4 road racing tires. the idleing is definatly due to the apexi bov. i think it contributes to the flooding also unless im mistanken. but for a $1k i think i got an alright deal. and compression at 5500 ft elevation was around 90 in every hole so thats about right. here are a couple pics.
thanks
#15
Pink Taco Expert
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Napa, Ca
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well im a dsm guy. ive had 4 and the way it works with those cars is that the stock bov(cbv) is vented back into the intake tract. but the air metering device is directly located after the air filter and the cbv vents into the intake tube just after the maf. the pcm is designed to calculate the vented air from the cbv and add fuel to compensate for this unmetered air. so when you put on an aftermarket bov or vent the stock cbv the computer will still add fuel when it thinks air is being put back into the intake tract by the cbv( like for example high rpm decel, or sudden change in throttle position from Hi TP to Low Tp) so in turn the car will run rich under certain conditions due to the computer adding fuel. im not sure if rx7's work the same way but im assuming they do and use the same basic air flow theory to compensate seeing as how the stock bov on 7's vent back the intake tract just after the air metering device just like dsm's do.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post