looking into Rex need help
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looking into Rex need help
I have a 89 Toyota Supra and I am thinking abotu getting rid of it for a new car.... Im looking into the FC's. What should I look for when I am shopping and what kinda of "tests" should i do. What are the known faults in the car and what are some signs the car is going to suck
knowledge junkie
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,595
Likes: 6
From: Atlanta, GA
Upra,
Here's the responce to a similar thread. After reading let us know if you have any other questions.
Note these cars inspire a bit of obsession. There are so many models to choose from, so many performance accessories, bodykits & headlight kits, accessories, OEM & aftermarket parts still available, and so many ways to customize & personalize your 7.
Here's the responce to a similar thread. After reading let us know if you have any other questions.
Note these cars inspire a bit of obsession. There are so many models to choose from, so many performance accessories, bodykits & headlight kits, accessories, OEM & aftermarket parts still available, and so many ways to customize & personalize your 7.
Originally posted by vaughnc
First rule of buying an rx-7 is get the engine compression test results. That will tell you if the engine core is in good shape.
If the owner doesn't know, tell him you'll pay for the test and ask him to re-imburse you if the scores are low. Mazda dealerships and most rx-7 shops can do the test for you for around $75.
The 86-88 GXLs, SE, sport, etc... models can last 200K miles on the engine very easily. The 89-92 GTU and GXL models have a little more horsepower and slightly different bodystyle.
The 88-92 GTU & GTUs models have the best horsepower/dollar/costs/fun ratios out there. The GXL models have more luxury and a little less horsepower. The convertible model is a sweet car to drive, especially the stickshift convertible.
The turbo TII models need engine rebuilds around 140-160K miles usually. If you find a turbo II that looks good, passes compression, and runs good for $2600 - that's about 1/2 of what they normally cost and would be a good deal.
As usual if your seriously thinking of buying one your looking at, after the compresion test results are good spend 3 hours minimum looking over the car opening stuff, looking for rust, checking for undercar body damage, frame integrity, bodyseam consistency, paintjob, etc..
Just like any car the previous owner's maintenance and driving can really extend or shorten the drivetrain's lifespan. Records are always good.
A few pictures of normal rx-7s, ones with bodykits, etc..
First rule of buying an rx-7 is get the engine compression test results. That will tell you if the engine core is in good shape.
If the owner doesn't know, tell him you'll pay for the test and ask him to re-imburse you if the scores are low. Mazda dealerships and most rx-7 shops can do the test for you for around $75.
The 86-88 GXLs, SE, sport, etc... models can last 200K miles on the engine very easily. The 89-92 GTU and GXL models have a little more horsepower and slightly different bodystyle.
The 88-92 GTU & GTUs models have the best horsepower/dollar/costs/fun ratios out there. The GXL models have more luxury and a little less horsepower. The convertible model is a sweet car to drive, especially the stickshift convertible.
The turbo TII models need engine rebuilds around 140-160K miles usually. If you find a turbo II that looks good, passes compression, and runs good for $2600 - that's about 1/2 of what they normally cost and would be a good deal.
As usual if your seriously thinking of buying one your looking at, after the compresion test results are good spend 3 hours minimum looking over the car opening stuff, looking for rust, checking for undercar body damage, frame integrity, bodyseam consistency, paintjob, etc..
Just like any car the previous owner's maintenance and driving can really extend or shorten the drivetrain's lifespan. Records are always good.
A few pictures of normal rx-7s, ones with bodykits, etc..
knowledge junkie
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,595
Likes: 6
From: Atlanta, GA
Oh - to answer your question directly.
Yes the compression test is the best way to tell the shape of the engine.
Find one in the paper / for sale with a "recently rebuilt," "new engine," or "low engine miles" and you've got 140-250K more miles of life available
There are a few common electrical bugs - but all are well documented and can be "do it yourself" fixed These include the wipers not parking (small re-sauder), 3800rpm hesitation (ecu grounding bug - easily fixed), and automatic seat belts flaking out, but they have a lifetime warentee so it's free (88-92 models only 86-88 had manual belts).
Note these cars are capable of 300-450reliable rear wheel horsepower and beyond on the stock motor. Combine that with perfect 50/50 balance, light weight, and porshe "borrowed" suspension for even more grip - and you'll go from "1.3Liter GT eater" to "1.3 liter Viper eater".
Also - you might want to check out your local rx-7 club chapter. Most have a mailing list and bi-weekly meets & quarterly events.
Hope this helps
Yes the compression test is the best way to tell the shape of the engine.
Find one in the paper / for sale with a "recently rebuilt," "new engine," or "low engine miles" and you've got 140-250K more miles of life available
There are a few common electrical bugs - but all are well documented and can be "do it yourself" fixed
These include the wipers not parking (small re-sauder), 3800rpm hesitation (ecu grounding bug - easily fixed), and automatic seat belts flaking out, but they have a lifetime warentee so it's free (88-92 models only 86-88 had manual belts).Note these cars are capable of 300-450reliable rear wheel horsepower and beyond on the stock motor. Combine that with perfect 50/50 balance, light weight, and porshe "borrowed" suspension for even more grip - and you'll go from "1.3Liter GT eater" to "1.3 liter Viper eater".
Also - you might want to check out your local rx-7 club chapter. Most have a mailing list and bi-weekly meets & quarterly events.
Hope this helps
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: Omaha,Nebraska,USA
Isn't a compression check at a mazda dealer like 75 bucks? Bump that!
you can get ahold of a compression checker.. for like 30 bucks at yer local auto shop... works fer me...
75 bucks! sheesh
you can get ahold of a compression checker.. for like 30 bucks at yer local auto shop... works fer me...
75 bucks! sheesh
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