Mindspin311

Does the hyper flex kit have everything I need or do I need to order any separate parts?

Includes:

- Front Control Arm Bushings

- Rear Control Arm Bushings

- Front Sway Bar Bushings

- Rear Sway Bar Bushings

- Ball Joint End Boots

- Tie Rod End Boots

Will that be everything I need?

darth fc3s

yeah, it pretty much covers every thing except the tranny ,diff,and subframe bushings and the dts eliminator bushings.

DriftingB26RX7

iTrader: (4)

yeah thats all that comes in the box, no tranny motor or diff mounts. Sway bars are very to do, front control arms very easy also if you have a bushing press, the rear i dont know still tryin to find out if i need to take off the whole arm alond with disconnecting the brake lines and what not does anyone know that ???

YF19

I have the prothane bushing kit and it's pretty much the same shopping list. The front control arms, you might as well take the whole thing off because you need to do the tie rods and then do the big control arm main bushing. Getting that bushing off is a pain in the butt because there's a metal sleeve inside the bushing that you basically have to cut through. Mine wouldn't cooperate so we used an air chisel. The rear control arms are also painful. The bushing kit doesn't require you to remove the front brake lines. The back, I still need to do because of the various car parts that are in the way.

I don't have the toe eliminators but I have the motor and tranny mounts from banzai. Very nice but if you do go for it, be prepared to have your colon shaken, not stirred. My engine mounts are junk and if you looked at the engine, while idling, it would wobble all day long. Now, the engine doesn't move. The tranny doesn't move. But every vibration is now going to go through the cabin. Don't expect a lexus smooth ride.

If you use the clutch (i.e. no gas) to let the car edge forward .. oooh man. Good time for the gf. =)

CodyHokieFD

Yes you have to take the whole trailing arm off, and you can just take off the caliper and hang it, you dont really need to disconnect the line itself.


As a point of note. The directions that ES puts with those things are worthless. They dont tell you that you also need to remove the sleeve that is in with the ole bushings as well. If you dont it wont go in quite right and you will end up forcing the arms back in which causes some toe-in issues, like the ones I currently have with my car. Thats ok though, after I got under there and saw the rust I decided Im going to replace all that anyways after my next track run.


It was my dumb mistake the first time, but now I know right.....just trying to save you guys the headache

Accoriding to what I read - unfortunatly after I did my install - is that after you get the old bushings out there are sleeves in the arm as well, and it is hard to tell that they are there. Once you remove them you can insert the bushings by hand and press in the inserts and it all goes in just fine.

hondasuck

busing press... **** i just melted mine off! LoL

oakback

I removed my arms and took them to a shop with a pressed, picked them up that afternoon, saved me some headaches. The sway bar endlink bushings are the easiest, and have the most noticeable difference when turning.

slomo85

iTrader: (8)

Just remember, the ball joint boots that come w/the kit are s4 only. I was a little pissed because I tore mine to all hell removing them. So I just threw some grease in the holes. I picked up a set of s4 control arms that I'm gonna put on this weekend. Sand blasted them, and cleaned them up. They look cleaner than my s5 arms now :-D. That way the ball joint is even replaceable if I need to. And I got the metal sway bar links w/them, so I don't have to waste the bushings that came for them as well. You can't use them w/the plastic ones, and the plastic ones bend and twist anyways...later

oakback

If you need some S4 control arms & end links, shoot me a pm.