longisland87rx7

This is crazy im about to do this later today.. my hot start sucks I cant even shut it down while getting gas, walking into 711 or anything... I have to wait 20 minutes and then she'll turn over... I hope this will solve when my car comes to a fast stop it stalls also... Hailers your **** I'll let everyone know if there were any changes !!

longisland87rx7

WHERE IS THIS PIN ON MY N332 HARNESS ?? Anyone ?? The diagram posted by icemark is not helping me what so ever and comparing it to the FSM isnt helping!!

longisland87rx7

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=150446
Where is "c1" in the fsm ??

longisland87rx7

Nevermind my comotion above.. I did it and it works.. This might just be the best thread yet.. It stopped my stalling also.. My mechanic never even heard of this method of taking care of it.. Thanks again!!

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Im gonna bring this thread back 1 time. So if so many people have this hot start issue, it obviously wasnt like this from the factory, so why is it having trouble with hot start? Ive been convinced it was just leaky injectors in my case, until i installed new injectors to find that i still couldnt start my car. I assumed it was fuel related, not temp related. So what is it that causes so many people to have this issue? Ill be probably trying this tomarrow along with a fuel cutoff switch to see if this helps me out. As of the last few months I havent been able to drive my car becuase i never know if Ill be able to get home...

NZ_87_TURBO

read the thread mate. I intstalled a fuel cut switch and it worked fine, My eng is just running in and now ive clocked up about 1000km its not doing it anymore. well every now and again

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

The fuel cut switch is just a band-aid. It doesn't cure the problem, it just bypasses it. That doesn't mean its not a good idea, though. I did the same thing, I'm just saying that there is still an underlying problem.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

well i know all of that, im saying what is wrong with all of the peoples cars who have the hot start problem. its not supposed to be like that, so it ussualy 1 certain thing, or a mix of problems? also, what about for wire 3b, do you think a momentary push button switch would work? on cold days hold down the button while it starts so it works like normal, but the rest of the time its disabled for once the engine is warmed up and doesnt need it? just an idea i had and like more than a toggle. normally open of course

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Just did this mod and it seems to work well. In conjunction with my new fuel cutoff switch its great. I used a momentary push button switch for mu b3 wire, installed it next to the security light on the empty panel. When its cold and I go to start it, just hold it down while you crank it and there you go. Rest of the time its off. Works like a charm

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

I did just realise though that it hasnt really helped me. Even when its hot I still have to hold down the button to start it, so I must have other issues then AND I have to leave the fuel off the first 2 or 3 times it turns over, then after letting it turn over with the fuel off for a few seconds I can switch it on and it starts... so somehow Im still flooding

boost_its_what_for_dinner

well has anyone tried to just hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it a few times. mine does this and then it will starts, think of it as a dirt bike when you flood it just hold it wide open and crank it. also mine will push start all the time when it wont start other ways. any one ???

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

that works sometimes, but mine is flooded every time i try to start my car, so it gets a bit annoying

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

So you turn it off by shutting off the pump and it still floods? Weird.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

i know. after i realised that didnt help i lost a few tools after i threw them across the yard. maybe my compression is completely crap, though i dont see how, once running and above 1500rpm it runs fine and pulls hard. im gonna check compression tomarrow and if it checks out ill bite the bullet and tear the ic back off and rip the uim back off and redo the entire injector install from start to finish and see if i find anything i missed or messed up so i will be able to mark it off my list and look elsewhere. my patience is growing shorter every day.

When i do get the engine started, it idles a bit rough, the bac isnt responding as far as I can tell because i messed the plug up removing it. it was dry rotted, but tomarrow im going to solder leads onto the 2 prongs on it and install some connectors so i can still unplug it. anyway, it will idle only because i tightened the actual throttle cable to up the idle to about 1200rpm, anything less and itll slowely lose rpm till it nearly stalls. now that i think about it, it almost sounds like a side seal dropped. i can hear 2 puffs, then the rpm drops, 2 more puff then rpm drops, 2 puff, so on... so maybe a side seal then. and also during idle i can hear a misfire every few seconds, more so than normal i think. anyway... lot of stuff to check. maybe one day ill figure this hunk of junk out and get it to run right. i already have another rx7 ive had for over a year and still havent gotten 100% right

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

OK Hailers your a god. This works so well. I have exactly the get gas and it wont start back up problem, but wait 30 minutes and it fires up fine. I running a S-5 T2 swap in my 82, using all the factory electonics. So when I wired up the harness with the three power leads to the ecu in put in inline blade fuses. So I tried it out yesterday. Went for a 20 minute drive, parked it and went inside for ten minutes. Came out would not fire off even with the gas pedal to the floor. Pulled the fuse for the starter lead, bang fired right off, I have now done this three times works perfect every time so far.

So this works for an S-5, exactly the same as an S-4, BTW the wire is 1C and is black with a red stripe., its on the top row, second from the right looking at the back of the plug where the wires go in.

Thanks again Hailers.

rx7vadim

i cut the blk abd blue wire like specified, no more hot start problems, great info hailers, lets not start worshiping woundup7 lol. cutting the wire will this effect any sensors in a bad way? this magic wire, where does it go, what does it do??

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

My understanding is, this wire which only comes on with key in the start position, it calls up a different fuel map in the ecu. Basically a start up map, there are no sensors involved, just the hot wire from the key on to the ecu, release the key from the start positon, back to the on position i.e. car running, no 12volts going through the wire to the ecu. No start map, no extra long duty cycle of the injectors, No getting the gas attendant to help push start the car. I may energized the wire tomorrow, with car idling and see if my wide band goes a few points richer.

harley71105

Hailers, for three years I had this problem with my 88 S/4. You can look back at my threads on this. As it turns out, brake fluid over time got into tha shielded connecter under the Master Cyl that comes from the CRS. I sprayed it out with some electronics cleaner and it hasn't failed since...It was ongoing for three years, spent $2000 trying to fix it....

HAILERS

*******I may energized the wire tomorrow, with car idling and see if my wide band goes a few points richer.*********

Nothing will happen. Go see the jpg I attached in one of the first posts. Once the rpms are over approx 500 rpm the START map in the ECU is not in effect anymore.

If the wire is cut permanently the car will start better when it's hot but when the engine is stone cold it will be hard to start because then the fuel amount being injected will be too little. If you live in a warm climate (Florida), you might not notice this. Up north you will notice it.

Anyway, if you make the JAYCAR switch I mentioned on page 4 of this thread you'll not have any problems whether hot or cold. I've been running with it since the beginning of this post and have had no problems whats so ever since.

Sharpie

ok so i went to radioshack and bought some resistors now it is a 20 pac and there is 5 of each type, Does anyone have a picture or remember what color the 220 one was?

Thanks in advance

AliBaba

Help me please with EGI N353 for RX7

Hello,

I was trying to find some answers on the web when I came accross your post "about Looking for a car that has HOT START PROBLEMS "

My RX7 1990 convertable has a serious proble of this sort. However I noticed today that the ECU is N353 and does not have black with blue strip wire on the small pkug. Do you know where I would need to put the 220 oh resistor.

Thanks a bundle


Ali Naqvi
Ali_Naqvi@hotmail.com

AllMotorRotor

Where can I find this training service manual?

AliBaba

Its not a training service manual rather it is described in the start of this thread.

CyberPitz

I've been told a very nifty way to get around this. I'm not sure what it is, but there is a wire/clip thing under the steering column, above the gas pedal. Start cranking with it unplugged, the car will start. It won't get enough gas to stay on, so you gotta plug that thing back in. I'm not sure if it's on everybodies car, but either way, it works for me. I'll see if I can get some pics of it later

AllMotorRotor

HAILERS got those pics from the training service manual. I remember looking at it at one point in time but don't remember where its located. I had a hot start issue before and I just connected the FPR to the intake maniflold rather then have it on the electronic solenoid and never had a problem after that.