Looking at buying a rx-7
#1
Passenger
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Looking at buying a rx-7
ok i found and rx-7 ata car lot that redoes old cars and is willing to take my 64' elcamino in on trade, and it has a custom 4k paint job, alloy wheels and new tires, brakes are fairly new 62k original miles, hasa k&n and custom exhaust cats removed, what do u guys think its worth?
what should i look for?
whats an average milage for a motor to last? will this motor go up to like 100k for more?
done some research and i guess the main blow up on these are the seals and it cost about 800$ to rebuild it or 1200$ for a new motor..
the car is very fast , this was the first rotary ive ever driven, i have a v8 in my elky pushin 500hp
so what im asking is where are the trouble spots ?
Thanks ,
Nova
what should i look for?
whats an average milage for a motor to last? will this motor go up to like 100k for more?
done some research and i guess the main blow up on these are the seals and it cost about 800$ to rebuild it or 1200$ for a new motor..
the car is very fast , this was the first rotary ive ever driven, i have a v8 in my elky pushin 500hp
so what im asking is where are the trouble spots ?
Thanks ,
Nova
#5
As far as I can tell (I'm Greece after all ) the price is very nice, judging from what I've heard. If indeed the car is in tip-top shape, then you should definitely get it. I have my '92 TII for almost two weeks and already I'm in love with it
#6
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I think that 5 is a good price for 6I2k How is the interior some things to look for seat separation between the leather and cloth. Air ducks in the dash cracked or loose (friends like to put these back in place for you and they crack) the plastic in RX7 sucks. It always cracks with the sun also look at the Defrost plastic. Seat Belts are they Auto they tend to lock up. The motor is good for at least 40,000 + Mi. Depending on the care. Another Problem is the Clutches I think there two small for the Torque Replace it with a Centerforce never a problem after that. I have found the Rx7's to be the most impressive thing I have ever owned. There easy to work on the oil change is a sap. Belts just come off with ease And they have a following that is unheard of Rotary Power is an amazing thing. I have two friends that want one really bad and I have gotten discounts at stores because of fellow RX owners. Just look at the web for what type of following these cars have I say that there the Harley of cars.
#7
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Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
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That's way too much for that car. It would sell for about $3,000 USD in my area, although it may sell for a bit more in WA. Check here:
http://www.kbb.com/
Engine rebuilds cost a lot more that you think, so be sure to get a compression check. Most NA engines will last up to 120K-150K miles before they start losing compression and require a rebuild.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/engprice.htm
Also be sure to check the front wheel bearings, as they are very expensive to replace (up to $450 each). Aaron's site has some great info on what to look for when buying an RX-7.
http://www.aaroncake.net/
http://www.kbb.com/
Engine rebuilds cost a lot more that you think, so be sure to get a compression check. Most NA engines will last up to 120K-150K miles before they start losing compression and require a rebuild.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/engprice.htm
Also be sure to check the front wheel bearings, as they are very expensive to replace (up to $450 each). Aaron's site has some great info on what to look for when buying an RX-7.
http://www.aaroncake.net/
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#8
Passenger
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im thinking i like the 1200$ engines here after core depoist lil cheaper then mazdatrix, unless they dont build quality motors? they gotta 24,000 or 2 year warranty on them, interior looks good no plastic cracks, havent checked the wheel bearings...
whats a minimum for compression check, and how is the best way to start the car cold? floor and hit the key? no gas? a little?
what will a normal runnign car do when started cold what idle rpm should it be?
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/
whats a minimum for compression check, and how is the best way to start the car cold? floor and hit the key? no gas? a little?
what will a normal runnign car do when started cold what idle rpm should it be?
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/
#9
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hey i am in Vancouver, WA and i have a 91 N/A with 92k on it, and the motor is very strong, it should go for like another 60k, the blue book is 6500, i am selling it for 4900k, its very clean, all the electrical works, and the motor is very strong, new race clutch, new belts, new tires, tinted windows. has a dent and a bent fender. PM if you are interested
thanks
thanks
#11
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Sounds like a nice car, but 5k is WAY too much for it. I paid 4k for a 1990 with 66k on it. Make sure you don't see any blue smoke from the exhaust after its warmed up, do a compression test, get the price down to about 3-3.5k and I'd probably go for it.
#12
Passenger
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the car lot wasgonna give me 3k for my elcamino, but my plan was to get it down to 4k , the only thing i can find wrong with the car so far is that the a/c needs a charge and the window weather strip is cracked up,
do i need to use a speical compression checker or justa normal one what would be the right readings?
do rx-7's smoke upon start up
anyone ever replaced their stock steeringwheel?
if so with what?
Bill
do i need to use a speical compression checker or justa normal one what would be the right readings?
do rx-7's smoke upon start up
anyone ever replaced their stock steeringwheel?
if so with what?
Bill
#13
Stock CR is 9:1--9,1:1. If you are getting 9,1:1 then this is a very good motor. If you get anything below 8,9:1 then the engine is on its way out (but still has some K's left in it). Every car can smoke when starting, if there is any oil residue on the plugs (not uncommon, but only for a couple of seconds). The stock wheel can be replaced by several brands (personal choice: Momo ), but if the aftermarket doesnt have any depth you'll need a mounting "neck" (adapter).
#14
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Well, I don't know how things are in Greece, but in the US a compression check will give you a readout in pressure, not compression ratio. Depending on your altitude, you should get about 75-85psi @ 250rpm, with no more than 21psi between chambers. It is best to simply have Mazda check the compression, as well as the rest of the car. However, if you are the el-cheapo do-it-yourself type, you should get a Mazda service manual (or download one) and a modified aftermarket compression tester. Here is a very basic article on the process:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/artic.htm
To start the car when cold, simply turn the key, and the EFI will do the rest. Hehehe, TGIF (Thank God It's Fuel-injected!). It will idle a bit high for a few seconds, and then it will go back down to its regular idle, 750 +-25 rpm. Oh, and yes, RX-7's will smoke a bit on startup, but you may want to have an RX-7-smart buddy check it out as it could be a problem if excessive.
PS: I like Momo, too.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/artic.htm
To start the car when cold, simply turn the key, and the EFI will do the rest. Hehehe, TGIF (Thank God It's Fuel-injected!). It will idle a bit high for a few seconds, and then it will go back down to its regular idle, 750 +-25 rpm. Oh, and yes, RX-7's will smoke a bit on startup, but you may want to have an RX-7-smart buddy check it out as it could be a problem if excessive.
PS: I like Momo, too.
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