Looking to buy FC TII has a few probs, help please?
12-10-10, 06:27 AM
#1
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Looking to buy FC TII has a few probs, help please?
OK so I' planning on buying a FC turbo 88. It has some good, expensive engine mods on it. It looks like I can get a great deal on it so I'm looking forward to this weekend, but.... the thing I'm worrying about is he says it needs "tuning (rich idle lean boost)" Wondering if I will have to take it to a tune shop or what? Or will I have to get an SAFC?(maybe im wrong about needing an SAFC). How much will making the engine run on the proper amount cost. Because I know engines hate when there isn't enough or too much fuel.
And the engine is still in the "break in phase" And I was wondering if there is any oil which would be bad to have in there other than cheap-o oil. I hear some people use 20W50 mineral oil for regular usage, and others don't think full synthetic is good because rotaries run so cold. So i was wondering what oil to get in the future as well (after the break in period) I have read so many articles that talk about one oil being better than another for rotaries, I have even read that in the owners manual Mazda suggests you should replace with mineral oil. So I'd be inclined to go with that. I doubt it would be any different for the break in period but you never know...
He claims that he changed all the fluids 100 miles ago.
Other than that it seems perfect. And the paint is a lil iffy but its sexy crystal white.
So
I'll list off some of the mods included incase it matters:
Chassis has 95K and it has a rebuilt, street ported by B&B motorsport (which is still in its break in phase) I was also wondering what type of fuel I should use for the break in phase (as i said earlier)
Rtek 1.7 ECU
FD Fuel Pump
NEW 720 secondary injectors, primaries were cleaned
Racing Beat 3” Down Pipe and Pre-Silencer
Apexi GT exhaust
New 02 Sensor
New Clutch Salve Cylinder
New Exedy Stage 1 clutch and Pressure Plate
Random Aftermarket Boost Gauge
Thx for your time all!
And the engine is still in the "break in phase" And I was wondering if there is any oil which would be bad to have in there other than cheap-o oil. I hear some people use 20W50 mineral oil for regular usage, and others don't think full synthetic is good because rotaries run so cold. So i was wondering what oil to get in the future as well (after the break in period) I have read so many articles that talk about one oil being better than another for rotaries, I have even read that in the owners manual Mazda suggests you should replace with mineral oil. So I'd be inclined to go with that. I doubt it would be any different for the break in period but you never know...
He claims that he changed all the fluids 100 miles ago.
Other than that it seems perfect. And the paint is a lil iffy but its sexy crystal white.
So
I'll list off some of the mods included incase it matters:
Chassis has 95K and it has a rebuilt, street ported by B&B motorsport (which is still in its break in phase) I was also wondering what type of fuel I should use for the break in phase (as i said earlier)
Rtek 1.7 ECU
FD Fuel Pump
NEW 720 secondary injectors, primaries were cleaned
Racing Beat 3” Down Pipe and Pre-Silencer
Apexi GT exhaust
New 02 Sensor
New Clutch Salve Cylinder
New Exedy Stage 1 clutch and Pressure Plate
Random Aftermarket Boost Gauge
Thx for your time all!
12-10-10, 07:48 AM
#2
From your perspective as the buyer, you'd better assume that the way it's running right now is as good as it gets.
"Needs a little tuning" and "still in the break in phase"- while perfectly possible- can cover a lot of mortal flaws.
Personally, I'd wonder why someone would go to all the trouble of rebuilding an engine and then stop when only "a little work" was left.
And I wasn't aware that rotaries "run so cold".
If anything, I'd have thought the exact opposite.
"Needs a little tuning" and "still in the break in phase"- while perfectly possible- can cover a lot of mortal flaws.
Personally, I'd wonder why someone would go to all the trouble of rebuilding an engine and then stop when only "a little work" was left.
And I wasn't aware that rotaries "run so cold".
If anything, I'd have thought the exact opposite.
12-10-10, 10:15 AM
#3
With the mods he's done (that you've listed) you can't do much tuning. I'm not sure how much his port job is screwing the AFR's over (if at all). Is the exhaust fully open 3", or is there a cat? Without a cat you're going to see a lot more boost creep, and that could easily cause a lean condition at high enough levels of boost. How does he actually know this problem exists? Does the car have a wideband o2?
Is he running the air pump still?
The question boils down to, do you want to take on someone else's project/headache? And judging by your questions (no offense please) you have little experience in rotaries. And if that's the case, taking on a "problematic-almost-finished" project may not be the way to go.
Could be a good learning experience though... all depends on your level of patience and mechanical savvy'ness.
Is he running the air pump still?
The question boils down to, do you want to take on someone else's project/headache? And judging by your questions (no offense please) you have little experience in rotaries. And if that's the case, taking on a "problematic-almost-finished" project may not be the way to go.
Could be a good learning experience though... all depends on your level of patience and mechanical savvy'ness.
Last edited by Bamato; 12-10-10 at 10:19 AM.
12-10-10, 03:40 PM
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no cat on it. and i dont mind being mechanically savvy, but I do mind a large chunk out of my wallet.
That is a good point about "this is as good as the engine gets" though. Really good point... Thx
There is no cat, open pipe.
Dont know why someone would do all that work and sell it either... But I might as well check it out.
He said "I have my friend wide band on it at the moment. No the airpump isn't which would be my first thing I would put on if I was looking to resolve the issue"
so what you guys think?
That is a good point about "this is as good as the engine gets" though. Really good point... Thx
There is no cat, open pipe.
Dont know why someone would do all that work and sell it either... But I might as well check it out.
He said "I have my friend wide band on it at the moment. No the airpump isn't which would be my first thing I would put on if I was looking to resolve the issue"
so what you guys think?
Last edited by killaizen; 12-10-10 at 03:48 PM.
12-10-10, 03:47 PM
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Buyin cheaper project TII's can be risky. You may get lucky and it just needs something small or you may find out you need a new engine harness$$$$ or something else expensive. If this is your first TII find something thats already sorted out. Dealing with someone elses headaches on a car that 20+ years old is not something you want to attempt unless you have time, $, KNOWLEDGE and space to work on it. With all due respect, if you think rotaries run cold you don't know how to fix this car, hint: its the complete opposite. IMHO I think you should find a sorted out TII and leave this one to someone more experienced with them or be prepared to possibly spend big $$$ to get it fixed.
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12-10-10, 04:18 PM
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He also said "There are three things connected to the airpump the bypass air valve above the turbo, and the cat, all of which I have. If for some reason this doesn't solve your problem. You can always upgrade the ecu to Rtek 1.8 which has a 200 point adjustable map. I think the upgrade is like $200. I have gone through pretty much everything else."
I just want all your opinions, but I'm starting to get the feeling its as Bryand Jacobs says...
Any other opinions would be really appreciated! Thanks!
I just want all your opinions, but I'm starting to get the feeling its as Bryand Jacobs says...
Any other opinions would be really appreciated! Thanks!
Last edited by killaizen; 12-10-10 at 04:23 PM.
12-10-10, 05:12 PM
#9
Of course, you haven't mentioned the asking price yet.
If his price reflects the value of the car as it sits now as opposed to the way the owner thinks it is and you hope it might become...then get it.
Unless you're buying a fully restored and documented vehicle, you really do have to expect to spend more money post-sale...that's just normal.
Unless you're reasonably familiar with the species you're buying, "getting lucky" is rare (although I admit knowing nothing and being quite fortunate when I bought mine) and it's more common to be surprised/disappointed.
If his price reflects the value of the car as it sits now as opposed to the way the owner thinks it is and you hope it might become...then get it.
Unless you're buying a fully restored and documented vehicle, you really do have to expect to spend more money post-sale...that's just normal.
Unless you're reasonably familiar with the species you're buying, "getting lucky" is rare (although I admit knowing nothing and being quite fortunate when I bought mine) and it's more common to be surprised/disappointed.
12-10-10, 05:21 PM
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Well, I'll probably end up getting it for $2500, maybe a little less if I do decide to buy it. (maybe $2000 if i manage to be really smooth and make a good case about buying it discounted)
Which is really cheap assuming thats the only **** i need to do for it to run well in the future. Thats not to say it doesnt run right now though...
Do you think hes right about just needing an airpump or an upgrade to the Rtek 1.8ECU? Because if thats all I need to do, then awesome!!!!
Update: I just read that racing beat says "The fact that it inhibits break-in due to the extremely high lubrication qualities (so use mineral oil during a break-in period, then switch to a synthetic)."
Which is really cheap assuming thats the only **** i need to do for it to run well in the future. Thats not to say it doesnt run right now though...
Do you think hes right about just needing an airpump or an upgrade to the Rtek 1.8ECU? Because if thats all I need to do, then awesome!!!!
Update: I just read that racing beat says "The fact that it inhibits break-in due to the extremely high lubrication qualities (so use mineral oil during a break-in period, then switch to a synthetic)."
Last edited by killaizen; 12-10-10 at 05:25 PM.
12-10-10, 05:23 PM
#11
He also said "There are three things connected to the airpump the bypass air valve above the turbo, and the cat, all of which I have. If for some reason this doesn't solve your problem. You can always upgrade the ecu to Rtek 1.8 which has a 200 point adjustable map. I think the upgrade is like $200. I have gone through pretty much everything else."
I just want all your opinions, but I'm starting to get the feeling its as Bryand Jacobs says...
Any other opinions would be really appreciated! Thanks!
I just want all your opinions, but I'm starting to get the feeling its as Bryand Jacobs says...
Any other opinions would be really appreciated! Thanks!
Does he have receipts for the engine?
From stage 1 to stage 2 it's $350.
Rtek 1.8 is same as 1.7 but it's for 720x720 injectors.
The 2.1 is what he was referring to and the fuel maps are 14x14.
http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=rtek7
Have you driven it? does it run good? start up good? smoke?
If its in good running shape(besides break in and rich idle) and everything seems to be well(no ***** hanging around in the engine bay, loose bolts and weird things missing/broken?), and the price is right(~1500-2500), I'd say its a buy, if your into fixing **** that other people screwed up, which can be very rewarding.
12-10-10, 05:33 PM
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@ nick Well he figures thats what it probably is the problem, i really cant say much I havent even seen it yet. I'm going to check it out tomorrow with my cousin. So not sure how it drives yet.
Havent asked bout receipts but probably has them but ill ask.
Im also a bit worried if he knows its too lean at boost because most people would argue its bad to run it really hard in the break in phase.
Do you think that if I do those things it'll work well assuming hes corrrect and nothin else is wrong that i wont have any lean/too rich problems?
Havent asked bout receipts but probably has them but ill ask.
Im also a bit worried if he knows its too lean at boost because most people would argue its bad to run it really hard in the break in phase.
Do you think that if I do those things it'll work well assuming hes corrrect and nothin else is wrong that i wont have any lean/too rich problems?
Last edited by killaizen; 12-10-10 at 05:36 PM.
12-10-10, 06:31 PM
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ok kid. from the sounds of it you know nothing about these cars. they are a pain in the *** if the car isnt running well. id say just save a few more pennies and but a good running one. youll be very very thankful in the future if you do this. so will your wallet
12-12-10, 02:38 AM
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Well i got an FD
@ineedfc, yeah they all have the airpump something about cat isnt engaged low or high revs so it runs air thru the cat or something cant remember exactly
@ineedfc, yeah they all have the airpump something about cat isnt engaged low or high revs so it runs air thru the cat or something cant remember exactly
12-13-10, 09:20 PM
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i know an alright amount about rotaries, i make one mis-spell and say rotaries run cold and everyone calls me an idiot lol
I think i'm the poorest FD owner though, usually its FC owners that are always broke... haha
I think i'm the poorest FD owner though, usually its FC owners that are always broke... haha