long wheel stud install on the rear
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
long wheel stud install on the rear
I am trying to install the ARP longer wheel studs on the rear of my 1990 convertable. Do I need to pull the entire assembly and remove the hub from the bearing to be able to push the longer stud through the hole? I have tried pressing it through with the hub still on the car and there doesnt seem to be a place where I can, since its longer and it is touching the rear carrier.
Hopefully this is somewhat clear. Anybody actually install the extended studs and can give advice?
Hopefully this is somewhat clear. Anybody actually install the extended studs and can give advice?
#3
Rotor Head
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 1,966
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just did this... I had to take off the hub after taking off the caliper and brake rotor.. You dont need to have the studs pressed in, you can bang them out with a hammer, and just use a nut and a bunch of washers to pull the new studs into place
#5
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,579
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've done the longer rear stud install on 3 cars so far, one more to go.
--->LONGER studs need to be installed by having the hub removed.
oem studs can be resinstalled without removing the hub.
I think it is S4 models that have a bearing seal that warps and gets ruined when you pull the hub from the carrier... so buy new seals before you get into this work!
S5 models have a different bearing seal that is reusable because it does not get deformed when you remove the bearing/hub from the carrier.
--->LONGER studs need to be installed by having the hub removed.
oem studs can be resinstalled without removing the hub.
I think it is S4 models that have a bearing seal that warps and gets ruined when you pull the hub from the carrier... so buy new seals before you get into this work!
S5 models have a different bearing seal that is reusable because it does not get deformed when you remove the bearing/hub from the carrier.
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks. after looking at it some more, i figured the hub needed to be pulled from the bearing like you said. I am just going to hold off then and replace the wheel bearings and dtss eliminator at the same time, since I have to take it to a shop with a press anyways.
#7
r o t a r y
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm really sorry to not only dig up an ancient thread but hijack it as well, but at least it proves I searched, right?
Is this true? I don't need to buy new wheel bearings to replace the studs on an S5? or is it just the seal?
Is this true? I don't need to buy new wheel bearings to replace the studs on an S5? or is it just the seal?
Trending Topics
#8
'89 GTUs
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 953
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought new wheel bearings anyways. You might as well since you have to remove the hub to get the extended studs in. And I did this when I installed my DTSS elims too, it saves time and effort.