the LONG awaited DYNO sheet of my car...
Originally posted by ARD T2
Nice job Kahren. That's about what we put down in one of our street ports. Wanted to find out how your idle is with the street port and who did the porting. Much appreciated. I'm gonna use you as a goal for my GTUs.
Thanks, Rishie
Nice job Kahren. That's about what we put down in one of our street ports. Wanted to find out how your idle is with the street port and who did the porting. Much appreciated. I'm gonna use you as a goal for my GTUs.
Thanks, Rishie
wow pretty good numbers 
How difficult is it to work with the S-AFC? Looks like it has a kind of clunky UI.
I've been reading about the S-AFC (and II) for a while now. Is this something only to be considered when you have a turbo or ported NA? For instance, if you only have headers/aftermarket exhaust, is it a waste of money?
It's a pretty cheap 'mod' if it nets you that much RWHP. Looks fun to tinker with, too. Though I wonder if you don't know what you're doing if you can hose your shiz with it

How difficult is it to work with the S-AFC? Looks like it has a kind of clunky UI.
I've been reading about the S-AFC (and II) for a while now. Is this something only to be considered when you have a turbo or ported NA? For instance, if you only have headers/aftermarket exhaust, is it a waste of money?
It's a pretty cheap 'mod' if it nets you that much RWHP. Looks fun to tinker with, too. Though I wonder if you don't know what you're doing if you can hose your shiz with it
you can easily blow teh motor withteh safc i f u donno what u are doing, AFC is good even on a stock NA because they run very rich from the factory. the 460cc injectors at max 40 psi will net about 250 hp at 90% duty cycle on teh NA rx7. so leaning it out would get u some power.
the afc is nto hard to work with at all, it alwasy helps to know EXACTLY what teh unit can do as well so read teh manual.
the afc is nto hard to work with at all, it alwasy helps to know EXACTLY what teh unit can do as well so read teh manual.
Hmmm yes very good for a mild street port BUT thiers lots to be desired. I believe you can make 175 or 180 if you do more mods.
My 89GXL has 160rwp with no streetporting whatsoever
If your handy I think you should try these things
TB port polishing , remove cold start , butteryflys , rerout coolant hose .
Fully ported manifolds only takes 5 hours if you have a big dremel ( like one from the rental section of home depot or something, then match it to your engine block ports. So expand those. Also you need to cut shave and glue your pineaple sleeves in the block so you can get rid of those rods. The low end is not even noticable if not improved some... Shorten your intake and put heat shielding around it. Get rid of that ribbed tube. Then shave that lip in your elbow. Im sure if you did this you can make so much more power. I dont see how I can make over 160rwp and you only slightly more with a mild streetport.
KEEP THOSE MODS COMIN
My 89GXL has 160rwp with no streetporting whatsoever
If your handy I think you should try these things
TB port polishing , remove cold start , butteryflys , rerout coolant hose .
Fully ported manifolds only takes 5 hours if you have a big dremel ( like one from the rental section of home depot or something, then match it to your engine block ports. So expand those. Also you need to cut shave and glue your pineaple sleeves in the block so you can get rid of those rods. The low end is not even noticable if not improved some... Shorten your intake and put heat shielding around it. Get rid of that ribbed tube. Then shave that lip in your elbow. Im sure if you did this you can make so much more power. I dont see how I can make over 160rwp and you only slightly more with a mild streetport.
KEEP THOSE MODS COMIN
Originally posted by von
Hmmm yes very good for a mild street port BUT thiers lots to be desired. I believe you can make 175 or 180 if you do more mods.
My 89GXL has 160rwp with no streetporting whatsoever
If your handy I think you should try these things
KEEP THOSE MODS COMIN
Hmmm yes very good for a mild street port BUT thiers lots to be desired. I believe you can make 175 or 180 if you do more mods.
My 89GXL has 160rwp with no streetporting whatsoever
If your handy I think you should try these things
KEEP THOSE MODS COMIN
Good job on the tuning!
yes i am running RB streetable header,RB resonated midpipe and RB catback. i dotn want to get true dual its gonan get too loud i think. i dont wanna be too loud i like hearing peopel talk when i am on teh higway. and without turning the stereo up too much. i realize that the stock s5 intake manifolds are killing my power, i need to do a lot now on the intake side. i do have the tb mod, i did reroute the hose.
by the way by gluing the pinaapples u mean keep tehm open right, u do loose quite a lot of power down low , and i dotn want to do that.
i have about 65 hp right now at 3k rpm and with them wired open i have about 56hp at that same rpm, thats quite a lot of power
if u look at the TQ its 115 vs about 100 this being a daily driver i dont see this as a good mod. and i DONT think teh shaft and all restrict that much power
by the way by gluing the pinaapples u mean keep tehm open right, u do loose quite a lot of power down low , and i dotn want to do that.
i have about 65 hp right now at 3k rpm and with them wired open i have about 56hp at that same rpm, thats quite a lot of power
if u look at the TQ its 115 vs about 100 this being a daily driver i dont see this as a good mod. and i DONT think teh shaft and all restrict that much power
i am gonna design a new intake manifold as well as convert to a map sensor isntead of the afm still using the stock fuel system and computer. next goal as i said is 200+ to the wheels.
Originally posted by Kahren
yep this has convinced me to stay under 8500
yep this has convinced me to stay under 8500
seems like shifting around 8200 would be best
-Ted
Ted Im confused. You are saying that he should shift once he hits max power? That doesnt make any since. If he shifts at 8200rpm his revs dont drop into the lower HP that he would be expiriencing if he shifted at 7200rpm.
You shift so when you car enters the next gear it is at the rpm that makes your max tork... correct me if im wrong, thats how i understand it
shifting at 8200 would probably be best. Shifting at 7200 rpm is wrong, it would be significantly slower. When you're running the 1/4, you're not worried about torque as much as hp.
Speaking of the 1/4 mile, what does it run?
Speaking of the 1/4 mile, what does it run?







