2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

the LONG awaited DYNO sheet of my car...

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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 06:06 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by ARD T2
Nice job Kahren. That's about what we put down in one of our street ports. Wanted to find out how your idle is with the street port and who did the porting. Much appreciated. I'm gonna use you as a goal for my GTUs.

Thanks, Rishie
idle is good, but i think there s something wrong with the narrow range TPS on my car, so it kinda doesn want to idle very constant. it idles at aroudn 740 rpm i have it set to that it bounces anywhere from 730-780, but when i let off the gas it goes down to 650 at times, i tried settign the tps but it doesnt seem to work. its within spec by the manual. mayeb its has somethign to do withteh TB mod i did. i havent figured it out yet really. but anyway this needs a whole new post and i dotn wanna discuss this here anymore
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 06:09 PM
  #27  
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btw this is all on 87 OCTANE and stock timing
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 06:21 PM
  #28  
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wow pretty good numbers

How difficult is it to work with the S-AFC? Looks like it has a kind of clunky UI.

I've been reading about the S-AFC (and II) for a while now. Is this something only to be considered when you have a turbo or ported NA? For instance, if you only have headers/aftermarket exhaust, is it a waste of money?

It's a pretty cheap 'mod' if it nets you that much RWHP. Looks fun to tinker with, too. Though I wonder if you don't know what you're doing if you can hose your shiz with it
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 06:37 PM
  #29  
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you can easily blow teh motor withteh safc i f u donno what u are doing, AFC is good even on a stock NA because they run very rich from the factory. the 460cc injectors at max 40 psi will net about 250 hp at 90% duty cycle on teh NA rx7. so leaning it out would get u some power.


the afc is nto hard to work with at all, it alwasy helps to know EXACTLY what teh unit can do as well so read teh manual.
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 10:12 PM
  #30  
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Kahren, you need to check your spelling dude. You've typed "teh" about twenty times so far!

You seem to have a really rich blip at 7500-8000rpm. Why's that?
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 02:40 AM
  #31  
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yes sorry about the teh

and umm that rich blip was stock fuel cure, the red curve is stock the blue is after it was tuned
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 03:18 AM
  #32  
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good job man
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 03:59 AM
  #33  
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Originally posted by Kahren
that rich blip was stock fuel cure, the red curve is stock the blue is after it was tuned
Oh yeah, I knew that, honest...
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 04:45 AM
  #34  
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Man I can't wait until i port mine
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 07:20 AM
  #35  
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When I looked at the first post, I thought hmm - falls off at 7500 - too bad you need cats.
Then later I see you swapped in a high flow cat - sweet..
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 08:45 AM
  #36  
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kahren doesn't have cats
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 09:13 AM
  #37  
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Ah - that explains that last dyno chart - very nice..
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 03:12 PM
  #38  
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Not to shabby good job.
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 04:25 PM
  #39  
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as a daily driver i am kinda having enouf of teh carbons, i wonder how much it will still have with the cat on
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 04:37 PM
  #40  
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Sweet job man!

let's see that 200 RWHP become a reality
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 06:42 PM
  #41  
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Hmmm yes very good for a mild street port BUT thiers lots to be desired. I believe you can make 175 or 180 if you do more mods.
My 89GXL has 160rwp with no streetporting whatsoever
If your handy I think you should try these things

TB port polishing , remove cold start , butteryflys , rerout coolant hose .
Fully ported manifolds only takes 5 hours if you have a big dremel ( like one from the rental section of home depot or something, then match it to your engine block ports. So expand those. Also you need to cut shave and glue your pineaple sleeves in the block so you can get rid of those rods. The low end is not even noticable if not improved some... Shorten your intake and put heat shielding around it. Get rid of that ribbed tube. Then shave that lip in your elbow. Im sure if you did this you can make so much more power. I dont see how I can make over 160rwp and you only slightly more with a mild streetport.

KEEP THOSE MODS COMIN
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 08:04 PM
  #42  
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Originally posted by von
Hmmm yes very good for a mild street port BUT thiers lots to be desired. I believe you can make 175 or 180 if you do more mods.
My 89GXL has 160rwp with no streetporting whatsoever
If your handy I think you should try these things

KEEP THOSE MODS COMIN
I saw a few SP motors pushing around 180 as well, so there should be room for improvement. Kahren, you running true duals or the y-pipe exhaust?
Good job on the tuning!
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Old Mar 3, 2003 | 10:43 PM
  #43  
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yes i am running RB streetable header,RB resonated midpipe and RB catback. i dotn want to get true dual its gonan get too loud i think. i dont wanna be too loud i like hearing peopel talk when i am on teh higway. and without turning the stereo up too much. i realize that the stock s5 intake manifolds are killing my power, i need to do a lot now on the intake side. i do have the tb mod, i did reroute the hose.

by the way by gluing the pinaapples u mean keep tehm open right, u do loose quite a lot of power down low , and i dotn want to do that.

i have about 65 hp right now at 3k rpm and with them wired open i have about 56hp at that same rpm, thats quite a lot of power

if u look at the TQ its 115 vs about 100 this being a daily driver i dont see this as a good mod. and i DONT think teh shaft and all restrict that much power
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Old Mar 4, 2003 | 03:33 PM
  #44  
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i am gonna design a new intake manifold as well as convert to a map sensor isntead of the afm still using the stock fuel system and computer. next goal as i said is 200+ to the wheels.
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Old Mar 4, 2003 | 06:11 PM
  #45  
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Originally posted by Kahren
yep this has convinced me to stay under 8500
And you were wondering why we were telling you it was crazy to rev to 9,000RPM...

seems like shifting around 8200 would be best
Actually...no.&nbsp It looks like the peak torque is about 6,000RPM.&nbsp Unless your transmission allows the revs to drop to 6,000RPM after hitting 8,200RPM, you're going about it the wrong way.&nbsp You want to be going through the peak torque AFTER you shift.&nbsp Shifting with any other method would (theoretically) lose time.&nbsp The only exception (in a 1/4-mile drag race) is if you needed to "bury the needle" to prevent a last-second shift just before crossing the finish line.


-Ted
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Old Mar 4, 2003 | 06:31 PM
  #46  
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Ted Im confused. You are saying that he should shift once he hits max power? That doesnt make any since. If he shifts at 8200rpm his revs dont drop into the lower HP that he would be expiriencing if he shifted at 7200rpm.
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Old Mar 4, 2003 | 07:31 PM
  #47  
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You shift so when you car enters the next gear it is at the rpm that makes your max tork... correct me if im wrong, thats how i understand it
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Old Mar 4, 2003 | 10:13 PM
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shifting at 8200 would probably be best. Shifting at 7200 rpm is wrong, it would be significantly slower. When you're running the 1/4, you're not worried about torque as much as hp.
Speaking of the 1/4 mile, what does it run?
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Old Mar 4, 2003 | 10:43 PM
  #49  
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when u shift you want to be at peak torque in the next gear...yes. that is why i said 8200 woudl probably do best, i havent realyl looked at what the rpms drop into every gear
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Old Mar 4, 2003 | 10:46 PM
  #50  
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whoops i posted under my friends name
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