Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

What is the best site that describes how to set idle? I have removed all my emissions and I am trying to get it to idle. I know I am going to have to adjust a lot of stuff, I was just wondering what needed to be adjusted?

I know of the screw on top of the TB. And making sure the TPS is set correctly. (Does setting it to 1k OHM while cold matter if all emissions have been removed and TB mod done?)

I just can't seem to find a site that shows which should be set first, second, third.

Thanks!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The TPS must be set to 1K while HOT. You then adjust the idle with the screw on the top of the throttle body.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! I was just looking at:

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=61&co=1&vi=1

and

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=55&co=1&vi=1

On the second one, it says make sure the TB primary plate clearance is good. Now, I didn't do anything other then removed the extra stuff on the TB. I didn't mess with any of the screws that adjust that kind of stuff.

Would this effect idle?

Thanks for changing my title Aaron. I couldn't think of a good one.

Also, should I be messing with the AFR at all if it was working just fine before I did everything?

NZConvertible

Yay, another fucked up "emissions" removal. The emission controls have nothing to do with controlling idle, so if you now have idle problems then you either introduced a vac leak by doing something wrong, or you removed something that is actually for idle control rather than emissions control. Or both.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Ok.

This is really difficult.

When I start the car, I hold the gas down just slightly and it rev's to 2k. Then I usually hold it around 2k or 1.5k till it warms up a little. Then it runs smoother at everything above 1.5k. But once I let it drop down below 1.5k it starters to get really rough. If I completely let go of the gas the revs drop pretty quick and will steady for a second and then completely drop and car dies.

So, I am sure i could drive it around if I kept my foot slightly pressing the gas, but I would rather get the idle going a little. Now, there is slight slack in my accelerator cable, is it supposed to be like that?

Also, I would try and find a vacuum leak using starter fluid, and see if it rev's up, but it won't stay idling at all. So, I am wondering if I am missing something?

I am using the S4 TB with S5 spacer between the TB and UIM. Even with the top screw almost completely out, it still won't hold idle. I would be happy if I could get it to idle at 1k or 1.5k and work my way to getting it around 800. But, I can't get it to idle on it's own without me holding the gas slightly. Just barely feathering it.

I tried messing with that screw that is supposed to adjust the primary throttle plate, but it didn't look like it was moving the plate at all. The plate also looks like it is nice and tight against the wall of the TB.

I was thinking there was supposed to be a little bit of space, but I didn't have my feeler gauge with me. Also, on the primary throttle plate, there is a little hole just below the shaft that holds it in place. Am I adjusting it wrong? What am I missing on that? It seems like moving the screw one way or the other doesn't do anything.

Also, what is the proper way to set the AFR (variable resistor on passenger side strut tower)?

The car runs beautifully from 1.5k+. Very smooth.

Could any of this be caused by a vacuum leak? How well do gaskets seal? I bought and installed all new gaskets, and cleaned the surfaces before installing. I didn't torque down the bolts too hard, because I have a tendency of breaking bolts and studs. So, I torqued them down quite a bit, but not too much. I am going to be getting my toque wrench and re-doing all the bolts. With new gaskets, what are the chances that there is a leak at the gaskets?

Thanks! Can't wait!

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Well, this is what I followed.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...s_removal.html

In addition to the S5 emissions removal from rotaryresurrection.

I just got my swap in:

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=63&co=1&vi=1

I did both at the same time.

Is there something I missed on those two? I didn't remove "emissions" to get more power. I went into it knowing that the idle would be rougher, and possibly higher. I did it to clean up the engine bay and to get rid of some failing parts. BAC was broken, EGR was broken / clogged, a few other small things. Double throttle plates weren't required to be removed, but even after the car was warmed up to normal operating temp, the plates were staying closed. Removed the front ones only, not the rear.

Well, any information would be great. Thanks again!

NZConvertible

That's not an "emissions" removal write-up. It's how to rip everything off the engine, whether it's useful or not...

BAC valves are cheap to replace. Nothing wrong with removing the EGR valve or double-throttle system (if you do it right).

It sounds to me like you have a large vac leak, or many small ones. How did you seal the holes on the TB? Did you use the proper gaskets under block-off plates? Is is something simple like either end of the AFM-to-TB duct being loose?

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

I used ultra black RTV. And tightened down the plates really tight.

Is there a chance that even with new gaskets on the manifolds, it could be that? I am thinking of taking them off and putting the RTV on both sides of the gasket and then putting the manifolds back on.

Also, what is the proper toque spec for the manifolds?

Thanks!

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Whew! Didn't have to take anything off.

Ok, held the RPM at 1k and sprayed starter fluid near VDI. And the car would rev a little.

So I pulled the VDI thing off, and looked at the metal. Looks like there was still some old gasket on where the bolts were. So I scraped that off and put RTV on both sides of the new gasket and bolted it on. And then let it sit for about 3 hours.

Started it up, and now it will hold idle. It holds it at 650-700, but at least it is holding an idle....

Thanks for your help guys!

Ice_Wolf

I guess I'll toss my input on this since I've been lectured about it by Aaron so many times now. Removing the thermowax and BAC is what is cause your car to not idle correctly when it's cold. The BAC is responsible for controlling your idle in accordance with the thermowax helping to keep the car idling when it's cold. Another note on this - make sure you have all the vacuum nipples plugged. If you don't plug all the ones that are supposed to be plugged, you'll get a shitty idle. I also followed that same guide you did and removed all the same stuff. Yes, the car runs insanely smoothly above 2k RPM's and has a much improved throttle response is why I loved doing it, it's just now it's a pain in the *** to drive for the first couple minutes until it's warm. If you want to go even further with tuning the idle, find the AFR idle adjusting screw and adjust it in accordance with the TB set screw. I've got mine idling PERFECTLY at 800 RPM using that method. Also, when I did the plate install, I used Indian Head Gasket Shellac compound with the brush applicator. It worked insanely well. Just make sure you don't overtighten those allen screws. It doesn't take much pressure to seal off where the old equipment was.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

I have mine idling at 750-800 now.

It only takes about 2-3 minutes when I start the car of holding the RPM at about 1.5k before it will start to idle on its own. Not too bad considering my cooling fan is always on for some dumb reason... once budget permits I am going electric.

But, when the car is warm, I don't notice any difference between when I had all the extra stuff and now. But I am also running a relatively new rebuild, approx. 15k miles.

Good stuff though, love it, and also at the same time swapped the S5 manifold in... good times! Little extra up high.