Did you check RB's aluminum flywheel?

 

it's not just about the total weight of the flywheel. it also has to do with where the weight is located. the further a point is located from the center the more it travels. and if you have the heaviest part of a flywheel at the furthest point its going to take a lot more energy that could've been used to turn the wheels.

so it's a balance of weight and design. a poorly desiged 9 lbs flywheel will feel like a well designed 15 pound flywheel.

just my .02

 

Anyone have anything to say about this flywheel? http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...roducts_id=101

178 bucks with no counter weight, also how important is a counter weight?

i think that one is 9.5 pounds

 

I dont think it can function without a counterweight.


where did you find the weight?

I think I'm going to buy that one...

 

The weight, says it in the description, or it says it on the N/A one they show. I think it's in the description of the turbo flywheel. They also sell some other flywheels. Badass website though. tweakit.net

 

too bad they're in austrailia.....$60 shipping to get it in 10 days. ouch.

what does it mean when it says it requires a 4 port style pressure plate?

 

i thought you said you have a na? the flywheel looks like its for a turbo gearbox....iirc the difference between the two is diameter...so you'd have to change quite a bit to get it to work.

The weight is about 12 pounds it says.

Jahan

 

The 28 lbs is for the turbo, i think. The NA flywheel is somethign like 23.
I have an 11lb flywheel (no idea of brand) and I love it. Whenever I drive other cars they feel so sluggish when shifting.

 

That same site sells one for the n/a also

 

turbo engine pressure plate

 

how do you get a turbo pressure plate on an n/a ?

 

you dont lol you'd need to get a turbo flywheel and clutch tranny etc

 

"Suits 13B 6-Port engines, requires 12A/13B 4-port style pressure plate.

(Generation 1-2 / Series 1-5 non-turbo gearboxes)"



says the site

 

the N/A tweakit superlight flywheel is 10.49 pounds im still trying to figure out what there saying about the pressure plate thing

 

I disagree...It's a very good game but I think Donkey Kong is the best game ever.

 

I've been thinking about a lightened flywheel for my GXL but have held off because I've read in a few places that the lighter you go, the more low-end HP and torque you'll lose because the lighter flywheel doesn't have as much inertia as the stock. The gains in the upper end should make up for it though, especially if you have a S5 with the higher redline and VDI.

The other concern is having to pull the waterpump and front cover off to replace the counter-weight. That means new seals all around and you have to get the bolt off of the e-shaft pulley which was a bitch last time I did one. You also have to be very carefull pulling everything off the e-shaft so you don't screw up the needle bearings, right?

 

.... . I think you got confused, lay off the chronic yo.

 

Is it really that involved? they have to take the flywheel off to to remachine it anyway when changing the clutch...

 

Yeah, that counter-weight is in the front of the block under the front cover and that front pulley bolt is worse then the flywheel nut IMO. Especially since it's more open to corrosion then the flywheel nut is.

Here's a diagram f/ the FSM and it's order on the e-shaft:

 

Maybe I can help out here: The mass of your rotating assembly has nothing to do with your HP. HP is a measure of work over time. Reducing your rotating mass just lets the rotating assembly change RPM faster, thus the engine can "bog out" more easily when taking off (less kenetic energy stored in the rotating assembly) and it can rev more freely once you get going thus it feels more powerful.
As far as replacing the counterweight goes, you don't have to pull the front cover at all. The stock cast iron flywheel has a built-in rear counterweight that the lightweight steel and aluminum flywheels lack. You can either buy a counterweight with your flywheel or get a counterweight for the automatic version of your car and bolt it up.

 

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that numbers 11 and 12 are fun because the first is the CAS gear so you have to be careful lining it back up when putting it back in from what I can remember so your timing is right and the second is the drive gear for the oil pump and you need to be careful with that chain.

 

scrapFC has the right idea. thanks for clearing that up.

 

so if I want a lighter flywheel, it only requires the flywheel, an appropriate counterweight, and the bigass flywheel wrench?

 

Just use an impact gun, it takes it right off..

 

Sweet! I always thought it was the front counterweight that you had to swap out. I suppose it makes sense that the weight would be made up at the flywheel since that's where you're removing it in the first place. I've just been thinking like a :tard:.

The initial power loss makes sense too, it sounds like it shifts the powerband higher up the RPM range but you hit higher RPMs faster so it's all good. It just might not be the best if you like to put-put around in your FC (which you should be driving in a more spirited fashion, shame on you!).