light throttle hesistations with lean symptoms
#77
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alta Loma CA
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i made it
I used some Fittings from McFadden dale Hardware with a union in the middle and punched out some 5/8 circles of 60 Stainless Screen material and put them inside. I used 8 of them and I think i'm gonna take a couple out.
#79
BTW, how'd you fix yours?
#80
My job is to blow **** up
iTrader: (8)
well.. after the replacing my fuel pump with the 3rd gen pump, it did it very lightly about 3 more times getting less harsh each time, and then went away. then i went to an rtek 2.1, and it came back for a few times and went away, then came back again when the battery was disconnected and then after afew times it didn't do it anymore. i can't explain why it matters but.. i had a fuel pump that tested bad(only on max pressure test, good on the rest) and a problem that is now fix'd, got me. i'm not saying go buy a new fuel pump, i'm just saying do the max pump pressure test, watch the pressure while watching the wideband.
#81
well.. after the replacing my fuel pump with the 3rd gen pump, it did it very lightly about 3 more times getting less harsh each time, and then went away. then i went to an rtek 2.1, and it came back for a few times and went away, then came back again when the battery was disconnected and then after afew times it didn't do it anymore. i can't explain why it matters but.. i had a fuel pump that tested bad(only on max pressure test, good on the rest) and a problem that is now fix'd, got me. i'm not saying go buy a new fuel pump, i'm just saying do the max pump pressure test, watch the pressure while watching the wideband.
#83
For anybody who was watching this thread, the problem (at the moment) is fixed. After running a clean wire from my LC-1 narrowband simulator to my ECU and rewireing my fuel pump for 12v all the time the problem went away. I only get a slight stutter while the car is warming up but even still it will blip into the 16's whereas before it would register 22's..I'd say thats an improvement
If problem comes back, I will let you know
If problem comes back, I will let you know
#85
Nah, it was a 14-16 standard wire. I ran it on the outside of the ECU harness until about the last 6 inches from the ECU to help in reducing any noise. It was just going to be a temporary thing since i saw that my original 02 sensor wire had been spliced in several places by the PO, but probably won't be touching it for awhile now.
#86
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Bumb.
Having the same issues.
S4 turbo, rtek 2.1 with 4 rc 750's.
Nothing have been changed in the ecu besides the starting map and selecting the injector size.
Happens really bad in first gear. All the way up to 18afrs. Only under very light throttle, if it starts going lean I can give it more throttle and then it will richer up and accelerate just fine. Otherwise it will just stumble and hesitate.
I did it repeatedly in a parking lot to simulate the issue, I stopped and unplugged my 02 sensor thinking that it was the issue and I did more testing. The afrs were even worse with it disconnected! Almost undrivable. So I reconnected it.
Cruising closed loop has been fine and I have been driving on this setup for over a year and never have had an issue till recently.
I am going to check my range on my tps tomorrow and also disconnect the boost sensor and see if it changes anything.
Other than this it drives fine, boosts great, afrs are nice and clean besides this issue.
Anyone found out there solutions or permanent fixes?
Having the same issues.
S4 turbo, rtek 2.1 with 4 rc 750's.
Nothing have been changed in the ecu besides the starting map and selecting the injector size.
Happens really bad in first gear. All the way up to 18afrs. Only under very light throttle, if it starts going lean I can give it more throttle and then it will richer up and accelerate just fine. Otherwise it will just stumble and hesitate.
I did it repeatedly in a parking lot to simulate the issue, I stopped and unplugged my 02 sensor thinking that it was the issue and I did more testing. The afrs were even worse with it disconnected! Almost undrivable. So I reconnected it.
Cruising closed loop has been fine and I have been driving on this setup for over a year and never have had an issue till recently.
I am going to check my range on my tps tomorrow and also disconnect the boost sensor and see if it changes anything.
Other than this it drives fine, boosts great, afrs are nice and clean besides this issue.
Anyone found out there solutions or permanent fixes?
#90
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
For anybody who was watching this thread, the problem (at the moment) is fixed. After running a clean wire from my LC-1 narrowband simulator to my ECU and rewireing my fuel pump for 12v all the time the problem went away. I only get a slight stutter while the car is warming up but even still it will blip into the 16's whereas before it would register 22's..I'd say thats an improvement
If problem comes back, I will let you know
If problem comes back, I will let you know
Is this the practice of using an external input at ATP or VarRes?
#91
I replaced my factory O2 sensor with the new sensor that comes with my Lc-1 wideband kit. There are 5 wires instead of 1 for that sensor, 1 of which draws a narrowband voltage similar to a stock o2 sensor so that you can run that to the ECU and make it think that you're still running a stock o2 sensor.
I can't quite remember the ATP/VarRes wiring so hopefully someone else can chime in there.
I can't quite remember the ATP/VarRes wiring so hopefully someone else can chime in there.
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