Kenteth

So... I pulled the front tire and it moves in and out just enough to here the hub/bearing move and feel the tire give. I repacked the bearings during the 5spd swap. I at first had the hub nut tight but then realised the wheel doesn't turn :P I loosened it up a bit until the tire spun freely. It has definate play 2 weeks later though. How tight should that hub nut (front passenger) be torqued to? It can't be much or the tire won't spin?

Wankel7

I believe if you lack a pull scale you want about 14-18 ft lbs of torque. You NEED a torque wrench for what you are trying to do. You can rent one at Autozone. However, if you are serious about working on a car a torque wrench is something you NEED.

James

Wankel7

I believe if you lack a pull scale you want about 14-18 ft lbs of torque. You NEED a torque wrench for what you are trying to do. You can rent one at Autozone. However, if you are serious about working on a car a torque wrench is something you NEED.

James

NZConvertible

You don't need a torque wrench for things like this. Just do it up really tight with a big bar. It'll be fine.

geargrabber

im sitting here with a haynes repair manual for the 2nd gen....

page 28, torque specifications

"Front wheel bearing adjustment

Spindle nut initial tightening torque...............14-22 ft/lbs

Wheel bearing preload (measured with srping scale)........initial spring scale torque plus 2.2 ft-lbs"


hope that helps

-mike

geargrabber

one a second note... i helped my gramps with replacing his wheel bearings (he was a mechanic for 20-30 yrs), we just tightened the nut until there was a slight drag, then tightened the nut a bit more.--- the drive axles need 100+ ft/lbs.

Kenteth

I'm confused here guys:

I already own a torque wrench btw

So the actual axle nut that is on the hub gets tightented 100+ft/lbs? Will the rotor even be able to move that tight?

I mus be confusing it with the spindle nut. I'm talking about the nut that is the first thing you see after you remove the dustcap.

geargrabber

i was confusing the spindle with the hub nut... sorry, use what i quoted from the book...

andrew lohaus

WOULD YOU JUST GET IN YOUR CAR AND DRIVE IT ALREADY!!

just messing. im sure the car will be fine. you are so overprepared its not even funny. good luck and have fun.

geargrabber

er... damnit ... the nut you see when you take of the dust cap is called the spindle nut, it holds the hub to the spindle.... ill quote verbatim what the book says to do to set nut torque...

<BEGIN QUOTE>
20. Carefully place the hub assembly on to the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position.
21. Install the washer and spindle nut. Tighten the nut to the intial torque listed in this Chapeter's specifications.
22. Spin the hub in a forward direction to seat the bearings and remove any grease or burrs which could cause excessive bearing play later.
23. Loosen the spindle nut until it's just loose, no more.
24. Attach a pull scale to a wheel stud and note the initial torque required to turn the hub.
25. Using a wrench, tighten the nut until the pull scale indicates the preload listed in this chapters's specifications. Install the nut lock, then install a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and slots in the nut lock. If the nut lock slots don't line up, loosen the nut slightly until they do.
<END QUOTE>

CHAPTERS SPECS
<BEGIN QUOTE>
Front wheel bearing adjustment

Spindle nut initial tightening torque...............14-22 ft/lbs

Wheel bearing preload (measured with srping scale)........initial spring scale torque plus 2.2 ft-lbs
<END QUOTE>

so, yes it looks as if you need that pull scale to do it properly.
-mike

geargrabber

i was rereading your post, have you ever changed the bearings?? maybe you need to put in new bearings, which i heard are a bitch(you have to grind on the hub).

mazda only sells the hub/bearing(inner/outer) assembly. If you want to know how to grind on the hub go here

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/frontbrg.htm

-mike

ps... buy a damn repair manual.