RotorJoe

First off, I own and 88 N/A with a street port, I have turbo secondaries and stock primaries, RB header and presilencer, SAFC with an air fuel ratio gauge. I have searched the threads and I noticed I am already running some of the lowest settings around. When I pulled my plugs last weekend the were covered with carbon. I had to scrape it off the plug and out of the groves. When I watch my air/fuel gauge it stays at the bottom end of the rich markings, just past stoich. Is this still too rich or is it my ignition not keeping up. Also I have noticed that right at 3,600 RPMs it drops way lean then goes back to rich. This happens for a split second as you go past that point. I have toned my settings back at that point just to run more rich and still do the same thing. This is at full throttle times. When I go up a hill in four pined and cross this point it ends up running lean longer due to the fact that it takes longer to go past that RPM. It then slams back rich at 3,750 or so. I was thinking of changing my NE points around there to give me more control at that RPM., but I noticed no one else has (I Think). So I guess there are two questions:
1. Do you guys see that you run lean at that point too and what should I do about it?
2. Am I too running too rich, should I tone it back some more or upgrade my ignition system (like I want to)?
Sorry for the long post, could not explain it any other way.

dr0x

Dont tune off your stock o2 sensor. Its a piece of ****. Go get on a dyno for an hour and use the wideband o2 sensor.

Flyby116

You should keep all the stock injectors in. They are fine, I have a streetport with the stock fuel but I have an S-AFC because I still run to rich and its a huge port! So go to the stock injectors, then turn it down. Just like Drox said the best way is on the dyno

Pics of the port if you want....

http://tworotor7.********/

Nick

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

No need to look at AF Ratio Gauge to suggest that your running rich...It shows on your Spark Plugs. And why would you have TII Secondaries anyway? As suggested, you have an S-AFC so optimize It's function with a dyno.

jon88se

like everyone said...the AFC is a great dyno tuning tool...if you want to tune a bit on the street after mods and in bewteen dynoing (can be expensive) an EGT gauge is a much better indicator if the probe is properly placed.

dr0x

EGT probe in a s5 is hard to place. You can put it in the exh. manifold, its divided ports. Then it runs into the turbo. Youll probably lose atleast 100F after it goes through the turbo and into the downpipe.

Roy James

I couldnt get the link to work. Hmm..

Flyby116

LOL guess its alittle down ....

It will work sometime soon I think. I had a nice site for about 4 years and just a few months ago it was delteled? O well this one is just a few pics, simple...

Nick

-P.S. This one will work!

http://tworotor7.20megsfree.com/

Roy James

Hey.. thats the size of my port. (... no ****)

NZConvertible

Just in case you're not convinced, I'll add my two cents.
You do not need turbo injectors in an NA. The stock ones can flow a lot more fuel than any street port will ever need (~250hp), so adding them will only complicate your tuning. As a rough guide to setting the S-AFC to suit them, you need to set all points above 3800rpm (when secondaries come on) to -16%, which will make everything act like stock. Then start tuning from there. Factory mixtures are always conservatively rich, and there's potential for more safe power by leaning things out a bit.
However trying to do this on the road with an A/F guage on the stock O2 sensor is a complete waste of time. The O2 sensor is not nearly accurate or consistant enough for this sort of tuning. Get your car onto a dyno and have it tuned by a professional using proper gear. You'll be pleased with the results.

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Flybye, I pretty much have the same exact mods as you! Well, excecpt for the large street port. Mines a small street port. I have the FD corner seals, 6 port sleeves, dual exaust/RB mufflers, 17lb RB flywheel, s-afc, etc. I'm curious to what kind of power you put down with that street port? Also, what kinda dyno did you use? CJ

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

pp13bnos


as far as I know Flyfy116 has not yet been able to dyno his car since it is at the shop. He is wopeing for ove 200hp. Can't remember if at the wheels though or at the "E. Shaft"

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

There should be enough port for 200rwhp. My question is, I wonder how much hp the intake manifold and the air flow meter will flow? I've heard alot of numbers, but never seen anyone with solid numbers to back it up. I guess when he gets it dyno'd we'll find out the upper limits of a n/a. I serously hope he does brake the 200rwhp mark. That would be awesome for a 6 port, non turbo car, to put down around the same amount of power as stock FD! CJ

Any hopes when he'll have it dyno'd?

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

Soon hopefully. I am his little grasshopa and will proly be doing everything as far as mods go to my car. I hope he breaks 200 at the wheels.

Flyby116

Yea I havent gone to the dyno yet...very soon I hope*
And like 1987 rx said I am hoping for 200rwhp.
Royjames and pp13bnos good to hear there are others out there with the n/a's
But as soon as I dyno ill post it. As of now though there is ALOT of power. Weird that we have the same mods pp13bnos hehe
Royjmaes how you like the port?

Nick

Flyby116

^

Roy James

Its pretty bad ***, still breaking in, i have about 200Mi till break in. Although i only had it to about 5000 it feels like a damn rocket, stronger throughout the whole power ban than stock. The only time i feel the tq loss is say cruising at like 2000, but during accel its better throughout.

Hey man, whats your idle at? I got mine at around 1200 pretty steady, i think i can get it arount 900 though, when it breaks in all the way.

Roy James

TTT, yeah

Flyby116

Idle is stock

Nick