Leaky valve at rear rotor housing
09-20-05, 03:01 PM
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Leaky valve at rear rotor housing
Hello!
I was offered an RX-7 FC Turbo II 200hp with some problem I have never really heard of. The seller of the car hasn't got any idea either, because he claims to not know the rotary engine at all. He told me, that the rear rotor doesn't run smoot and there seems to be some leaky valve (?) at the right side of the rotor housing. He told me after spraying some fuel into this whatsoever, the engine would run smooth. So that doesn't seem to be the known reason with compression loss at the rear rotor. There is also no coolant consumption, nor any cold- or warmstart difficulties. Anyone got an idea, what could be the problem with this engine?
Thanks a lot!
BR, Björn
I was offered an RX-7 FC Turbo II 200hp with some problem I have never really heard of. The seller of the car hasn't got any idea either, because he claims to not know the rotary engine at all. He told me, that the rear rotor doesn't run smoot and there seems to be some leaky valve (?) at the right side of the rotor housing. He told me after spraying some fuel into this whatsoever, the engine would run smooth. So that doesn't seem to be the known reason with compression loss at the rear rotor. There is also no coolant consumption, nor any cold- or warmstart difficulties. Anyone got an idea, what could be the problem with this engine?
Thanks a lot!
BR, Björn
09-20-05, 03:28 PM
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Doesn't sound likely. There are no valves (of course) in the engine. There are also no vacuum lines in that area, either passenger or driver side unless it's right at the top of the engine.
Get a compression test done. If the engine checks out, buy the car cheap (assuming you are willing to repair).
Get a compression test done. If the engine checks out, buy the car cheap (assuming you are willing to repair).
09-21-05, 08:11 AM
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@MrDirt:
You suggest one of this magnetic valves for fuel?!? - That was what I also thought of. It rather does not sound like a compression issue or does it? - I guess manually spraying fuel into this point wouldn't solve any compression trouble?!?
@all:
Is there any way to build a DIY compression tester and a DYI diagnostic connector for reading the ECUs error codes - because there are only few mazda - garages which have one in that area?
Thanks!
You suggest one of this magnetic valves for fuel?!? - That was what I also thought of. It rather does not sound like a compression issue or does it? - I guess manually spraying fuel into this point wouldn't solve any compression trouble?!?
@all:
Is there any way to build a DIY compression tester and a DYI diagnostic connector for reading the ECUs error codes - because there are only few mazda - garages which have one in that area?
Thanks!
09-21-05, 08:34 AM
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ECU codes are fairly useless. Compression can be checked with any standard compression tester if you remove the schrader valve.
If it is a leaky injector, then they are easy to replace/clean and cheap used.
If it is a leaky injector, then they are easy to replace/clean and cheap used.
09-21-05, 09:28 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
ECU codes are fairly useless. Compression can be checked with any standard compression tester if you remove the schrader valve.
If it is a leaky injector, then they are easy to replace/clean and cheap used.
If it is a leaky injector, then they are easy to replace/clean and cheap used.
I got to disagree here. Although the Codes arent always 100% correct, I have had TONS of luck with scanning codes on cars that dont run right. I have seen codes for all sorts of things. A water thermosensor code can lead you RIGHT to a disconnected or broken thermosensor, etc etc... Take that for what its worth.
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