dra_gon_lee

I went to time my car the other day, and i noticed there was no spark getting to my leading plugs from the coil. I know the wires are good, the plugs are good, and im getting 12 volts to the ground and the power supply of the coil, whats up? is it just the coil? or is there a sensor or something i could check also? please help guys, i want to hear my spiffy new bov for more than a 30 sec trip.... btw the trailing is working fine, i've already tried 2 junkyard coils, do i need to get a new one? or should i try to buy one off of here or something.... any body's help would be appreciated....


thanks
rocky

HAILERS

Warn your car up. Pull the trail plug wires off. Start the car. If it runs, write back to tell us the lead coils are ok. If the car does not start, go to the lead coil assy and take the small white plug off. With the key on, check for 12v at the black/yellow wire and 5volts at the other wire(its possible that at this wire the voltage will be zero, don't worry, just turn the engine over and check again for 5volts again). Write back your findings. Its possible that due to a quirk with rx's, your not seeing the light on the lead plugs. Hold the inductive part of the light close to the coil assy and see if it flickers, but by all means pull the trail plugs off and start the car just to show that they are indeed firing. As has been said befor, a rx will run like a champ without the trails connected and vice versa , except vice versa , not quite as good as a champ.

dra_gon_lee

well, i pulled off the trailings the other day and the spark arced to the plug, but when i pulled off the leading no spark arced, ok i just measured the voltage its 0.1 on that green one and 11.9 to the black one on the white clip... what do i fix?

thanks
rocky

biorotary

check and make sure the connection is secure...mine did that to me once...it looked secured, but when i connected the connecter the black wire would back out just far enough that it wasn't touching....so check that...

HAILERS

I know this is shade tree, but since your car does run, take one of the wires out of your LEAD coil assy, and let it just rest in the bore. Start the car. Do you see arcing to the wires end from the bore of the coil assy? Could be a bad coil assy. It should ohm out below one ohn. When I get home I'll attach a jpg from the manual showing how to check out the coil with igniter. By the way, if you rotate the engine, will that .1v that you saw go to 5v and drop down as the engine turns. If it does that should mean the ECU is doing its bit and the coil or ignitor is bad. Anybody that wants to make a contribution to this, have at it. Darn, hard to believe you've had three coil assy that did not work. Check on that 5v coming and going. That wire should be G/Y or green/yellow. The output is on pin 1V on the ECU. Thats the large connector to the right on the ECU. You read the pins reading from right to left when everything is connected.Far rigt top pin is A. The one below is B, etc. V should be on the lower row, second one over from the far left. I'd ohm it out from the coil assy if you don't get 5v coming and going as the engine is turned.

HAILERS

I think there is a miscommunication here. I just realized that you did not tell me what happen when you took both trailing plugs off and then started the engine. Did it not start? You already know that in order for one of the leading plugs to fire, the other has to be grounded or on its plug? Anyway, as goofy it may sound initialy, take both of the top TRAILING PLUGS off, and start the engine with both of the lower leading plugs connected. If the car starts, the plugs are firing. Car will run plenty good fine with just leads or trails connected by themselves.

dra_gon_lee

the car doesn't start with just the leads hooked up, i did try that...

and the cars runnin like crap with just the trailings hooked up....

RETed

Something is very wrong...the car will start fine with just the leadings.&nbsp Granted it takes a split second longer to catch, but it does crank and fire up fine.

The car will run fine with only the trailing coils running also...



-Ted

HAILERS

First skip the bs about looking for 5v coming and going. Pure clap trap. Go to your ECU and pull the large plug on the right off. Ohm out pins N to P and then pins T and Q. On my car I get 170 ohms on each. That is ohming out the cas when you do that. If that does check close, then I give up. I'd patch in a known good ECU and have a go. I'm attaching two jpg's of the ignition so you can ohm out the above plugs and it wouldn't hurt to ohm out the pin V with it disconnected from the coil assy to make sure its not being or touching a ground. Should read wide open if not connected to the coil assy.

HAILERS

The second jpg:

Keith

When you say you've tried 2 junkyard coils, did you try just the coils, or the complete ignitor assembly (the silver thing the coil is screwed on to)? If you haven't done the complete assembly, I would try that. As HAILERS suggested, I would ohm out the wire from pin 1V of the ECU to the green/yellow connection on the leading ignitor assembly. If it reads ok, the ECU is probably bad, since the same signals from the CAS are used for both the trailing and leading coils. Good luck!

Irv, Keith's dad

dra_gon_lee

ok the problem is its running rich, i think because the wiring for the o2 sensor was done really crappy and i don't think the ecu is getting the signal from the o2 and adjusting the a/f ratio or what ever. the o2 wire was spliced, and then i tried to fix it, but didn't use sheilded wire like the factory harness uses...

its backfiring like crazy whenever i try to fire it up now, i am low on fuel "the light is on"
heres what i have done
tb mod, bov, 3" full exhaust, no smog pump(covered with plate), no split air cover(no plate), new wires, hks plugs, 680 or 720 cc secondaries,
problems:
backfiring, no spark to leading coil, starts without clutch in, sometimes clicks when i turn key and doesn't start but if i try again it does, 02 shady wiring,

and yes i did try the entire assembly...

dra_gon_lee

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